Ice Damaged Plum Tree

Hello,

We got hit with an ice storm last week, everything got covered in 20mm of ice.  We got off pretty lightly but our plum tree took a nasty blow, a couple of major limbs are snapped. I'm looking for advice on what to do to help this tree heal.  Any thoughts welcome. Thank you in advance!

Richard

If they are still attached it is possible to fix them. They can be propped up so they are back to there original position, or at least close. You can also tie them up to the tree itself. Perhaps coat the exposed part with something to prevent infection. The thing is even if those branches live they won’t be able to hold their own weight so you will have to keep them propped or tied. I have seen trees snapped in half but since the sap wood is still connected they continued to grow. Fruit trees do good with heavy pruning so doing that will help take some weight of as well.

Mick writes,

Fruit trees do good with heavy pruning so doing that will help take some weight of as well.

Having many varieties of prunus, I agree with Mick that heavy pruning can really help these trees.
From a close up look at the upper break, it appears that there could be some kind of interior fungus or rot that weakened the larger (perhaps oversized for the trunk) branches.
Therefore, unlike Mick, I would not try to re-attach or prop up the branches.
Instead, I would examine your 2 healthy scaffold branches toward the bottom of the tree for health. If they look like they will continue to thrive, I would then make a clean horizontal cut of everything above those branches across the central leader. A shorter tree will make your future  easier when time to pick the fruit!
Then I would trim the length of the scaffold branches so they will produce new healthy growth.
I have taken off very large central leaders on ~4 year-old trees and been amazed at the tree's recovery and productivity.
If this tree wants to live, it will thank you for your agonizing and seemingly ruthless pruning choices with fruitful abundance in a couple of years.
Make sure your pruning tools are sanitized in alcohol or with a torch so that fungus does not spread.
Good luck Richard!

That looks to me like a classic weak crotch. Great photos for a post mortem!

The Y formed by two dominant leaders branching at a tight angle is something to avoid. We can see the bulge of collar formation in the crotch, and this was pushing the branches apart as they grew, weakening the wood and and creating an entry point for brown rot. The load of the ice on the branches was the last straw and the joint split with the grain, and as the limb twisted and fell it ripped the bark down the trunk.

Do the surgery Amy suggests, encouraging scaffold branches to leave the trunk at more like a 90-degree angle like the ones to the left of and just below the break. This develops a ball and socket type of joint in the wood, which can flex with the stress of wind and weight, and gets stronger over time. You can see the collars around them pretty clearly.

I don't know if that good branch on the left is salvageable, though...once you've cleaned it up you'll need to make a tough call as to whether there's enough structural support for it. Cut it back short and the odds are good. Also, I apply a paste made from clay and cow manure after doing work like this and it helps protect the wound but remain breathable while it heals.

Thanks for all the input. I will admit I'm hesitant to hack things back too much,  I'm pretty inexperienced with pruning. It will likely be a couple of days before I can get to this.  I'm the meantime I'm posting a couple of more close up pictures,  because I don't really see any signs of rot, especially in the lower crotch. So below is a close up of the lower crotch. Let me know if this sparks any more ideas.

Thank you!

This is the upper crotch, plus another view of the whole tree

That lower crotch didn't have rot to make matters worse, but it was structurally weak because of the narrow angle and the wedge action of the collar growth. The sooner you can tidy things up, the better...those big torn-up wounds are like flashing neon signs to opportunistic pathogens.

I had a big oak tree lose about a third of its crown when a weak crotch gave way in a wind storm several years ago. No rot, just mechanical failure of the wood.

Thanks for the input guys.  I am going to proceed with pruning. It's been a challenge cleaning up from the ice storm..... I haven't determined in how to seal the wounds, I have heard beeswax is good.  I'm open to any suggestions, but I don't have access to clay or manure, and am hesitant as that sounds like it would contain potential pathogens.

Thanks again.

Richard Terry wrote:Thanks for the input guys.  I am going to proceed with pruning. It's been a challenge cleaning up from the ice storm..... I haven't determined in how to seal the wounds, I have heard beeswax is good.  I'm open to any suggestions, but I don't have access to clay or manure, and am hesitant as that sounds like it would contain potential pathogens.

Thanks again.

You can use pine sap mixed with powdered charcoal to seal the wounds, you just gotta heat up the sap to mix and apply. I don’t believe that pine would carry anything that can harm a fruit tree but I could be wrong. It is heated though so perhaps that would kill any baddies.

Thanks Nick.  

I have opted to prune just the 2 broken branches. I feel like I might have been a little timid in the pruning,  as I know I can't glue it back on once I've cut it.  I am posting some pics here,  to see what you guys think.  Don't be shy!

Also, if you have any tips on propagating from the branches I pruned off,  that would be great!

Hi Richard,
Sometimes we humans, can feel actual pain when we see a damaged tree like yours, and we feel the pain when we have to cut large limbs. I can feel your pain. I have been cutting off limbs of my plum tree (and others as well). Some cuts made me almost cry. But always I have been amazed by the resilience of a tree to recover. I have learned a lot over the years on pruning. Nowadays I look at (young) trees and try to immagine how they will look in the future when their branches grow thick and heavy. I remove them when they are young and small. preferably so early, that I can do it wit my fingernails.

When I saw the pictures of the damage on your tree, I can see what Amy and Phil see. And I am sorry to inform you that after your pruning cuts, I still see problems for the future. I think the situation at the upper limb will repeat itself on the remaining crotch at the next storm.

If it was my tree, I would cut the main leader well below the damage, above a nice healty branch. Cutting under the lower damage, above the healthy  branches would create the start of an open vase model, which is advised for plums anyway. I never seal wounds off. I would keep an eye on the growth this summer, because I expect strong regrowth on a healty tree like this. I will prune heavily on the young shoots and try to imagine the thick branches in the future, creating a nice future shape.

I know that if you will do it, it hurts now, but a year from now, you wont regret it, because your tree can be healty and strong and full of fruit.

All this is a sad event. See it as the start of a new learning curve. I have learned a lot on pruning here on permies and on U-tube. There are some real gems, and you know it when you are watching them. I have made lots of mistakes, and learned from them. Now, when I see a tree, I know what should be done or should have been done in the past. Google for pruning for strength. That is what went wrong here.

Please find the currage and practise some though love on this tree, for its own good. And dont forget to send us a picture a year from now to show off your beautifully recovered tree.

Thanks for all the responses, your support will get me through this!  I have begun to prune the main trunk.  I am attaching 2 last photos (Until next year!!) , one show the whole tree, and I've circled where I have already cut, and the 2nd is a closer view of the lower damaged branch, and I've marked where I plan to cut.  I just wanted to confirm that I have understood correctly what needs to be done before I go ahead, it feels so drastic!  Am I on the right path??

Good morning Richard,

First cut: well done! You have started.

On the second cut: You understood us well.
Allways look twice and cut once. So I took a good look at all your pictures again. Just above the yellow line, on the right side, I see two thin branches. In another picture it looks like at least one of these branches is growing in a different direction than the thick one on the right.  If so, you migth want to save one of these thin branches (and cut the other one away). Having 3 branches spreading in 3 different directions would be a nice start of a new, more balanced tree. However, if they grow in the same direction as the thick branch, you have to cut below these thin branches, or it will cause trouble in the future.

On the exact direction of the cut: the goal is a nice clean cut, without ripped bark. You want all damage to be removed completely. You want an inclined surface from which the water can roll of easilly. The strongest regrowth will happen at the top of the cut. So,
-  If you are going to cut above the thin branch, I would make this my highest point. That would mean, if you would take a picture from the right side of your tree, you could draw the yellow line best. Around the thin branch, there will be a collar of bark that looks a little different in structure. You don't want to cut into that.
-  If you decide to cut below the thin branch, I would cut a little lower than you draw the line or, even better: make up my mind on what direction I would like the new top branch to grow and cut from there downwards. That could well be just below the end of the tear. There will be sleeping buds that wake up when you cut there, and make a new branch/top of the tree.

It is probably wise to reduce the height of the tree first with a higher, random cut, so the weigth of the tree won't do any more harm when falling down.
When the final cut is made, return on a regular base and remove, just with your fingers, all excess growth, and keep only one new branch at the top. Imagine all new growth becoming thick branches in the future, and remove now whatever will cause trouble in the future, so you will never have to do something this drastic again.

And don't forget that picture at the end of the year! :)

Nynke's advice is super and I would follow it. Use what is already there to form the scaffold of your future plum tree. And definitely do the "double cut" tactic of taking the bulk off with the first cut, then doing your finish cut to clean up the stub.

The clay + manure paste is great because it breathes and is full of beneficial microbes that prevent pathogens from getting a foothold in the wound. I've been using it for years and it's magic.

Personally, I let the wounds heal in the open air without salves. And most importantly, I would not wait another year to complete the cut of the central leader. Nynke's observation that, "Sometimes we humans, can feel actual pain when we see a damaged tree like yours, and we feel the pain when we have to cut large limbs," could be helpful right now. Imagine if you go to the doctor and he says, "I'm sorry to say, we're going to have to remove your leg. But to make you feel less traumatized, we'll take it off to the knee this season then when it heals up, we'll take off the other half."
Wouldn't you say, "DOC!  Just get it done and let the healing begin!"

Ok.  I'm getting closer, I followed your advice and cut down in sections. I've cut to just above the thin branch. I think it is still quite close to the other bigger branch on the right, so it may still need to be cut down below that. I've attached a couple of pictures that show that thin branch a little better.  Let me know what you think.

I am also wondering if I need to trim the length of the remaining branches, they getting close to 5' or 6' in length. What do you guys think?

I am really grateful for all the help here.  I will be starting another thread with some other trees I know I need to prune. I know I haven't done a great job up until now but I feel like with all your insights, I'll get there! So I'll see you over on that thread too!!

Thanks again


Richard

Well done! I'd agree with shortening the remaining branches just in case they get laden with fruit (or just covered in leaves) so they don't present as much enticement to strong winds to whip them around. Plums really like to grow those long leaders and because we're in a windy spot I usually try to head them back quite a bit for safety's sake.

Good morning Richard,

YES! This looks like a tree that is going to make it!

On the thin branch at the top: Vertically there is a nice distance, but the directions are closer than you would want them indeed. You could redirect the branch with a string. It is so young, that will work! Remove the string in the fall or next spring, and the branch will remain in its new position.
Cutting the main leader lower is another possibility, but I don't think it is necessary.
You can watch what happens now and even cut away this small branch in favour of another when it appears.
It seems like you are starting to get a feeling for it, so thrust your judgement and do what you think is best.

On  shortening the other branches: I am with Phil. Every year I cut off half of the new growth in summer (I mean half of each branch). It will cause more side shoots and probably more fruits for the next year. (I have a smaller space than yours, so I have to keep my trees more compact.

Return to this tree regularly to keep an eye on the new growth, because there will be a lot! Expect to have regrowth similar to the amount you have removed! Manage that regrowth while it is thin! Check position, direction and length and remove what you don't need for a beatifully structured tree.

And don't forget that picture in the fall or next spring! We would love to see how it recovered. That will complete this story.

Hello Everyone,

I thought I would give you an update.  The tree seems to be healing well,  there's been plenty of new growth below the cut that I made.  The tree produced lots of blooms, no fruit though,  although it hasn't done that in previous years either (Hopefully next year!).  

I think my next job will be to select which of the new shoots I should keep and which should be pruned. I'm not sure if I should go ahead and do that now, or wait until the tree is dormant. Let me know your thoughts.

I also think that I probably need to cut back the large limb on the next side of the trunk, to balance the tree out more.  Again, I'm not sure on the timing for this,  or how much I should cut back.  I would welcome any input.

Thank you!

Richard

Looking good! I only prune plums in the summertime because of the risk of bacterial blight. I usually do it after picking the last of the fruit and try to choose a dry, sunny day with a bit of a breeze. A lot of what you have there can be taken care of with a sharp knife in the next few weeks.

Maybe head back that long low branch to about 1/3 - 1/2 of its current length as well.

Hi Richard,
Sorry I missed your update 3 months ago. I have been so curious how your tree was doing. It looks fantastic!
I have nothing to add to Stevens advice. That is what I would have done if it was my tree. If possible, I might have pruned in a very early stage with my tumb. That is faster, and the tree puts its energy into something else. But the truth is, that I sometimes forget it, because I am busy doing something else.
I never doubeted it, but I am still very happy for you and your tree that it turned out so well, enjoy your lovely tree!

Hello Everyone,

Firstly, thanks for all your helo last year. I am trying to get ahead on pruning this plum this year, it did recover will from the ice damage, but in trying to wrap my head around how to prune it. I'm still a nervous pruner and but I'm slowly gaining courage. I know I need to tackle this and correct some of my lack of pruning when the try was younger.

Let me know what you think!

Thank you

Richard

Hi Richard,
You have already gained some confidence pruning most of the overcrowded shoots away. Well done!
I studied the pictures after pruning, and I would remove some more:
1. I would remove everything that grows vertically out of the branches, or redirect it in a more horizontal direction.
2. I would check the spacing of the latheral growt. Your tree looks pretty big to me, so i would want to grow a firm structure that would last for many years to come. I want each branch to look like a feather, with enough space for each side branch to grow out into a feather by itselves. Does that make sense to you?
3. I would cut one third off all long new shoots that I want to keep, to stimulate flowering.
4. At  the main trunk, you might want to grow a third and maybe fourth branch to fill the space, but creating a spot where water collects should be avoided at all cost. That would cause rot in the trunk and will be the beginning of the end of the tree. So imagine what happens when these new shoots at the trunk grow really big in 20 years or so. If it will cause a problem in 20 years, cut it off now and create space for something better to happen. If not, you continue with this main structure of two branches and work with that.
The goal you should prune towards is an open bowl shape, that catches lots of sunlight for flowers to fotm and fruit to ripen.