My brain's the burger and my heart's the charcoal.
I would not recommend going with them, but designing (or have designed) something specifically to your wants and needs as well as the land it will occupy. I am not a fan of "cookie cutter architecture." (that is subjective on my part after 35 years + of doing this)We are putting up a wooden sided yurt from Smiling Woods Yurts near Lyle, WA in the spring and I am trying to figure out how to handle interior insulation and walls.
You can, and I commend you for you desire to stay as green as possible. You can do much better than store bought materials for that. I would also warn you at this time, that though cob is enchanting and wonderful material, there is way too much romanticizing this and other building modalities. Do it because it makes sense, is environmentally, ergonomically, and financially sustainable and practical for you, not just because you like it.I LOVE the cob look and the ability to add nooks and benches as well as building up a cob structure around our wood stove. We don't want to use any plywood or sheet rock for the walls and I am only considering the *greener* alternatives for insulation (wool, denim, cellulose, and maybe airkrete).
Yes, and/or a system like that. I would in your case perhaps consider a straw bail, if the straw is attainable within 25 miles radius of the building site. If not, them my next choice in your case with be a slip form wall of "straw clay," cobbled from the inside, and perhaps either cob, (more work) or a rain screen wall and wood siding. It all depends of final location, the land it sits on, the topography, etc. Of course my frame structure would be timber frame, but that is my bias and craft as a Timberwright, (and no it is not more expensive than the system you are considering.) The national average for simple timber frames is between $25 and $35 per square foot for a frame kit, sometime even less expensive depending on resources, owner/builder assistance, and related aids to bring the price down.So my question is can I put up insulation right the wooden walls and then just do cob right over it?
No it probably will not be practical to achieve Code R factors with cob alone as the walls would be overly thick. In some cases this is not a bad thing to have nor impractical, but in most cases it is, due to the budget and material resources.I imagine just doing only cob won't give me a high enough R value for code. I really want the inside to be cob so am willing to do whatever needs to be done to make that happen!
Yes I can see that, and you could do that all yourself, with the help of a local contractor if you do not have the skill sets and a local saw mill, which would be my recommendation if you really wanted something that looked like the product you shared.Here is a description of the walls from the smiling woods website : The walls are framed with 2x6 lumber.
The framed walls are sheathed with a 1/2" shear panel, then covered with a vapor barrier and sided with 1x6 tongue and groove western red cedar siding.
My brain's the burger and my heart's the charcoal.
Jennifer Brownson wrote:Hi Manijeh, I was just wondering how your smiling wood yurt with cob worked out? Any pics to share?
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