William Bronson

gardener
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since Nov 27, 2012
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Biography
Montessori kid born and raised in Cincinnati.
Father of two, 14 years apart in age,married to an Appalachian Queen 7 years my junior,trained by an Australian cattle dog/pit rescue.
I am Unitarian who declines official membership, a pro lifer who believes in choice, a socialist, an LGBTQ ally, a Black man, and perhaps most of all an old school paper and pencil gamer.
I make, grow, and serve, not because I am gifted in these areas, rather it is because doing these things is a gift to myself.
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Cincinnati, Ohio,Price Hill 45205
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Recent posts by William Bronson

A ninja/ nurtabullet type food processor might work.
What do the berries taste like?
15 hours ago
I've been putting nursery pots in between rows of in ground plants.
They serve as a "living" mulch,without the complications of root competition.

So far it's just been cuttings and rescued volunteers, but if you had indoor/outdoor plants like moringa , citrus or figs, the potted plants could start out every spring already  tall enough to be a trellis.
2 days ago
I was already intrigued with elder as a green manure, because it likes being cut back.
Turns out the leaves strip very easily.
That is also a feature of Catalpa trees.
The Catalpa hosts a particular insect Ceratomia catalpae, the catalpa sphinx.
Apparently this Catalpa worm often eats most of the foliage from a given tree, but this doesn't seem to bother the tree.

I've taken to stripping the leaves from Catalpa seedlings in my landscape.
I drop the leaves under a favored plant .
They grow back readily.
I like to think I'm standing for the Catalpa worm, a creature I've never seen on any of the Catalpa around here.

The leaves are kinda stinky, which I think could be good.
The Catalpa ha few predators, and the compounds in the leaves maybe why.
Fresh Catalpa leaf manure might provide some scent confusion protection for the plant it is feeding.

I'm getting some sochan plants soon.
They might be good as a living trellis, but I think they actually form thickets/clumps.
3 days ago
So I saw this plant today.
Big fat berries with a giant seed, almost no flesh.
White Fringetree  is said to be a relative of the olive, and could be treated as such.
The lack of flesh and large amount of seed  makes these disappointing, but it made me wonder, are the pits of olives edible?
Well, maybe?
It's not a traditional thing, people will swallow a few here and there.
Rather than pursuing that weak lead it occured to me to ask if olive oil was made with the whole olive.
It is, the whole fruit is mashed up.
So, maybe White Fringetree could be a perennial oil seed, hardy  down to zone 3.
3 days ago
The most interesting living trellis I heard of is pigeon peas for tomatoes.
They are a perennial nitrogen fixer that makes food.
They are also the reason I have a Siberian peashrub, since pigeon peas can't overwinter here.

I wish the peashrub propagated itself, by seed, but it doesn't seem to want to.
I'm plant on taking cuttings and maybe even air  layering, some branches, since I always miss the ripe beans(birds maybe?)

I have also started taking long elderberry branches, stripping them of all but one leaf, and using them as stakes.
Im hoping these long cutting take  and I'm hoping one year of root growth won't overwhelm the bed.
5 days ago
 The fruit is very small and the fruiting period is short.
I used to wonder how many mulberry trees and time people had to be harvesting enough for a pie or juice, and it's seems that select varieties is the answer.
The fruit of the Pakistani in particular are said to be inches long, where my wild ones are maybe 1/2" max.

I love theses mulberry trees anyway, but I'd probably love them more if they were producing enough food to be worth harvesting.

We are in the same zone, 6B but Cincinnati is very wet, which can apparently be a problem for some varieties.
There is a fungus that causes "popcorning" in some varieties in wet areas.
Do you live in a wet area as well?

Im looking at a dwarf variety Geraldi.
It starts fruiting very young, but grows slowly and tops out very low.
It seems to stay small even in other root stock.
I'm still looking into how well it roots.
6 days ago
I like to use sesame seed oil with baking soda, but my partner didn't like it(?) so I switched to coconut oil.
Both have antibacterial properties.
1 week ago
I'm looking to buy some mulberry varieties that are hardy to zone 6 and readily roots from a cutting.

I have lots of wild mulberry around, but they don't fruit well and they don't easily root from cuttings.

Any suggestions are welcome.
1 week ago
It sounds like you have a different take on the forest gardening problem, one that works.
Are you tired of the need to garden in containers?

I happen to have two mulberry trees next to my very large chicken composting yard and they grow a network of  roots deep into the pile.
I accept it as gift , because they don't seem to sprout from the root fragments and living roots feed soil organisms.
I will be trying to establish elderberry along the edges of that pile, for their alleged compost accelerating properties.


I most falls I create compost bins out of pallet wood, often right under the fruit trees I favor.
I fill the bottom with woody biomass, followed by leaves and urine.
I plant tomatoes and squash transplants into the unfinished compost, water and walk away.
Later I harvest what's there, and add a deep layer of leaves/urine.
I repeat this cycle until the pallets start to rot ,then I harvest the compost, taking whatever isn't fully decayed and adding it the bottom of a new compost bin/ garden bed.
The tree roots tend to stay in the soil proper, probably because so many nutrients are leach into it from above.
This method or some variation might free you from the need for actual containers, though I've found these beds are good places to put containers of seedlings, to keep them from drying out.


I've recently built a table style bed at my mother's house.
The top of the soil is about 30" off the ground.
It has already produced a flush of turnip greens, from transplants that had been languishing in a ground level bed.
I took two buckets and cut the bottom out of one, and most of the bottom out of another.
I took the first bucket, inverted it and laid a 15" x 15" expanded metal mesh over the opening.
I then place the second bucket over the first, pressing down with my weight and ultimately sitting on it.
This firmly sandwiches the expanded metal mesh between the two buckets,creating a mesh bottom about 1.5"  from the bottom of the outer bucket.

The photo doesn't do it justice but the idea is to use them to propagate trees from seed,transplanted volunteers, and cuttings.
I have added some nylon line to the bottom of each.
I'm hoping it will wick water into the soil, but I'm not counting on it.

1 week ago