Scott Weinberg

Antony Brush wrote:Hi folks, I've an apple tree in a pot.  For several years it's been leaning over more and more.  I've moved it to a lamp-post and strapped the trunk to it to keep the tree from falling, but most of the fruit is on the leaning-over part, and every year the weight of the fruit makes it worse.  

I can see that this year we're going to have a large crop of apples.  Can anything be done to fix the leaning?  If I chop off those branches, that's most of the fruit-bearing capacity, but on the course it's going, at some point it'll break under its own weight.

Any ideas?

if the Tree is in a pot, "leaning"  Why not prop the pot, until the tree is going UP?   Must be in a really big pot, if it bears fruit, but you did say you have moved it?

The wooden stake support thing works well and the large apple tree orchards have done that for years, so it is certainly a proved system.  often after the fruit has been picked the supports removed.

Apple trees can take a huge amount of pruning, so over time you could "direct" it the direction you want ( 2-3 years) but that goes back to the POT thing, tipping the pot can get you there right off.

cheers

Aeron, you wrote this,

"Multiple people recommending bypass, which sounds good, only i've never done any of this, and am trying to keep it simple. Adding a bypass sounds like a lot more work than adding a tee piece at the base of the flue. Plus won't i need a clean out down there anyway? "

When all the folks that have built RMH's of nearly all designs, suggest this "bypass" thing, there is a good reason.  All are wishing you to have good success with your build.   By the way, a T-piece at the base of the flue, in no way, would be considered a  easy work around bypass.  I am not saying this to be rude, but rather stating it is simply not the same thing.

I think your letting the "idea of doing it" causing thoughts of a great obstical.  It is not.

Let me simplify this, by saying, on the build And this includes all of the designs!  you have a exit for the exhaust flue.   No getting around that. And the flue will always go UP.  if you feel you can do this, your only a few steps away from adding one more exit hole and slide gate and having this connect to your rising flue pipe.   if you feel you can do the bottom one, you certainly can do the upper bypass one.  I don't know about others in exact detail but this bypass does not have to be huge, mine is only 4"  so about 1oo mm or so--  it is simply to get things going the right direction easily and for maybe 10 minutes.  When you need it, you need it. This won't be often if  your stove is warm, as things are primed to get things going in the right direction.

Don't let this little thing stop you from building.

While your at it, you mention that you "will need a clean out anyway"  Not sure what your envisioning here, but a simple inspection hole across from the exit hole for the flue will be fine.  If your in any kind of Grain harvest country, there are very simple auger tubing rings that work extremely well. Build in, plug and your good to go. Again a very minor thing in the sckeme of things.  If you wnat pictures of the clean out, just post a note, and I or someone will post a few phots of this.

cheers
Scott

Robert Ray wrote:The final heating elements (PTC) were delivered today. So I will begin this weekend on the assembly.

Just wondering, it has now been 3-4 months, and was wondering if any recorded experiments got completed? It sounded like you got all the recording items and possible heating elements lined up a few months back----  I know threads fizzal out over time, but this one did have a lot of interest a while ago,   with perhaps a few comments on both sides of the fence for this to work well.  

 Maybe not cut and dried, but it seems like there should be a "yes it worked" or
" no, it didn't work"  or a comment on where it is going from here.

Am interested.

Tom did a great job with some helpful advice,

From my past builds, I have changed my mind a bit but would like to add pertinince to just a few things.

No matter how good of IFB  ( insulated fire brick ) you can get, I would put my money on full fledged hard fire brick, and insulate that if you must, on the exterior of the brick. NOT hard to do, and you gain 10 fold in the toughness of the brick.  YES there are some really good IFB out there, but you get the wrong ones, The rebuild is generally not so fun.

As top stated, the by pass is simply a must, even if you never use it,  Again, hardly cost a thing, easy to put in,  And on the chilly but not cold days, simply a perfect solution, to get things going.

Posting your planned shape and design to this forum, will reward you with thumbs up, or gentle suggestions from those that have gone before.  Life is to short for redo's.   As they saying goes, if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?    Am pretty confindent that with a thumbs up plan, this will work well for you first time out of the gate.

While we can get "what appears to be high quality service" on our aircraft motors we do so at such a ridiculous cost, that it is hard to believe.  I bring this up as we have flat 4's and 6's.  with 1950 technology in mfg and research involved.   Volumes of info on these on how to rebuild, but not so much on how to incorporate new NON EXisting parts.

So crazy that often we hear and see rebuild cost of $35-45K per engine.

Granted the volume of Subie engines is far beyond any aircraft engine catergory, but still.

Enjoyed your engine breakdown photos Tom, looks like your well on your way for a good to go car again.

Scott

A few tools, to make tools of course.

Let the fun begin!

Becarfel about going down the anvil path, as soon you could be a collector, both of tools ( for both square and round holes in anvil.  The variations are tremedous, with the largest I have seen at 400#, but all are very useful.

Holding the anvil is almost as important as the anvil itself.  Often edge cut blocks, ( edge face towards floor and anvil ) if it is heavy enough, ensuring it will not move out of place is often enough.

With the right tool selection for the anvil, often cold bends can be preformed easy enough.

Best of success.

Scott

Looks great!  Way to stick to the plan and complete!
Scott

Peter van den Berg wrote:  in the drawing the flue is drawn as a 200 mm diameter one, while the core and ISA is for a 150 mm system. You won't need a 200 mm chimney, any particular reason to have one?

.

Not pertaining to this build, but the question (of flue sizing) seemed to fit in well here.  

Would this oversizing of the flue, effect the performance or workings of a stove

I am thinking about those that may have aquired a place that had a large flue, but don't need that much stove size for the needed heat value of a larger stove that the flue could handle.

thank you, and if this already has been answered elsewhere, I will read up on it there.
Scott