David Wieland

I presume that the original problem was dealt with a long time ago. But for future reference, I'll offer some relevant comments. A branch that's just 6-8 feet above the ground is in easy reach of a polesaw (manual or chainsaw type). I have a lot of trees, so I also have both kinds, the chainsaw type being cordless.

To protect plantings below them, it would be very helpful to have a second person to hold the end of the branch to be cut. Then starting from the end -- not from the tree trunk -- cut it in pieces short enough for the holding person to handle. That way each piece can be lifted away from the planting. Near the starting tip, a long-handled lopper might be better than a saw, depending on the springiness of the branch.
Update: I just realized that the 6-8 foot height that the original poster (OP) described must have referred to where the branch came off the trunk. Silver maple branches angle steeply upward, so the tip might have been much higher. Still, cutting the branch in shorter pieces,  with whatever saw can reach, is the best option short of a motorized bucket (or crane!).

In my experience, having a maple tree nearby makes a poor garden, because maples develop a lot of fine roots near the surface. Within two years of establishing such a garden, it was invaded with such roots that out-competed the garden plants.

Thekla McDaniels wrote:Let’s not forget alfalfa as a nitrogen fixer.  It’s not a very demanding plant, has very deep roots, and can be cut by hand a few times a year.  It can be fed to rabbits and chickens.
...

I grew it for hay, pasture being the other agricultural use. After manuring the field, it grew well. Like all crops that are harvested, fertility must be provided in some way. Growing legumes as a way to provide nitrogen works if you turn them in rather than harvesting. Otherwise the nitrogen is just feeding the plant. Some interesting information about nitrogen fixing is at https://www.ruralsprout.com/beans-nitrogen-fixing/.

If you really want to dig tough roots out directly, without cutting them first, you probably need something like a mini excavator with a sturdy rake attachment replacing the bucket. You may be very strong, but an excavator is stronger.

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:..
As an alternative, have a look at the Radius Root Slayer. I have one (bought on sale) -- these things are absolute tanks, seriously overbuilt. Might suit you.

I second the Root Slayer recommendation, especially if you take the time to sharpen it. (A new one isn't sharp, probably for safety.)

Amy Clarke wrote:...
Does ground-contact foamboard hold up ok for you? I thought the pink/purple foamboard insulation was impervious to nature and left some pieces of it leaned up against a wall with their bottom edges on the ground, and something termite-ish ended up turning it into a bunch of cool-looking tunnels and uncool purple plastic powder.

I don't have termites here in rural Ottawa, Ontario, so that may be why I haven't seen that kind of damage. If tunneling insects were to become a problem, I would try to protect the bottom edge with something unchewable -- perhaps aluminum J-trim or similar.

That's a great use for salvaged material. A hoop shape is a very practical and efficient basic design for structures, especially greenhouses. I have a couple of suggestions for your consideration that are based on my experience. If you haven't already allowed for movement (thermal stress) in your polycarbonate skin, you're likely to get cracking around the fasteners. At a minimum, the screw holes in the panels need to be oversized and bridged with washers. If you want a bit more height inside, the hoop "bones" can be raised onto low walls (which can even be insulated with foamboard such as Styrofoam).

Jay Angler wrote:...
Not sure they'd completely replace paper. I guess that's why I see some videos of people starting their RMH with a propane torch. I always figured that was a waste of propane, but maybe not?

I've learned to use a propane torch as well as paper to start my greenhouse RMH. Even with fan assist, essential in this design, it's the only way I've found to keep my wife from complaining that I smell like smoked ham when I come back into the house.

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:
The Lee Valley digger is clearly labelled as "not suitable for clay soils." I've looked at them at LV and they don't seem strong enough for my uses.

If that digger isn't strong enough for you, you must be aiming to dig into unworked clay, which is likely what the LV disclaimer means. I consider that to be a pickaxe job! What root crops can grow in clay?

Have you considered getting a local welder to fabricate a digger to your specs? Thekla's observation about the angle between the handles and tines is relevant. I find the LV design to be optimal for my arm length, allowing me to stand on the crossbar to drive the tines in while holding the handgrips and then prying the soil loose when I pull the handles back and down. The catalog pictures don't show it, but if the soil is tight I stand (or even jump) on the crossbar with both feet.  A design with only 3 or 4 tines would have even more soil ripping power.

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Hey guys, help me out. Dear Wife has Amazon Prime shipping, ending tomorrow.

I came across this reasonably priced broadfork and it *seems* like what I've been trying to find for a long time.

I'll be using it in both sandy and clay soils (esp. harvesting root veg in the clay). It looks tough enough to do the job.

What do you think? Worth buying?

It doesn't look as hefty as the one from Lee Valley that I noted last year, but it's less than half the price and looks sturdy enough for previously loosened soil.

I'm surprised by the topic title, because musicians have long prized old instruments of high quality. Stradivarius died long ago, but many of his violins live on. Besides, speaking as an 80-year-old, a century-old instrument doesn't seem all that old!