tony uljee

i have also made some changes to the stove flue ---in case i need to scrub out the system with rods and brush ----not creosote but soot /ash---maybe over the top ---but i can now access the whole flue from top to bottom if needed---i had to adjust the flap valve anyway so ---it was too loose ---then too tight ---my fault on design of it ---rushing at the time to complete things---now it has a looser fit tube to turn in and a spring to keep the flap plate in position---all highly teknikal and ingineered ---i saw Burra purchased some nice cast iron pan type things from the l idal  shop---in the BQ section ---i rushed down the next day to my local one 12 miles away-----was as soon as i could get there----but all gone ---but they had an orphaned flat round one---and for 6 euros ---makes good pancakes and toasted cheese---have to make a pick up handle as the existing ones get roasting.

thanks to all for the apples ---just accessed my email ---heres the first baking done in new oven ---not by me ---its banana bread/loaf ---the last bit left  of three--i came back inside just in time---coffee break---her old stand by recipe was used and just timed as per usual when electric oven was used---stove had been through its first firing ---bricks were still warm --- a second firing  was under way -----great success as it browned all over-- rose up ---and light texture--bonus was top browning off ---better than the electric oven i am told----well it wasn t beer bread but still it started with a B----i had cooked earlier myself ----stirfry ---chilli prawns and squid---used a cast iron flat bottom wok ----not the best i found ---it drags a lot of the heat away ---should have used the steel one ---but it was good ---we have a collection of old cookware ----- Cast offs , Recycled , Abandoned  & Passed on ---some thinning out of the herd needs to take place---once we can determine which work best

just rounding up some of the last bits , my comp system is struggling ---so it could just give up on me ---if so could be awhile then before i can cobble up another set up or make some funds for it ---so the hot water is still being worked on ---making up a wooden former to bend the copper coil around---oven works better now ---more heat reflected back in---heres some stove s that are inspiring me for next build in our cottage ---collecting bits already ---wonder if a double core could be done----anyway till later

took a piece of scrap 3/4 inch plywood and copied the pattern i made of the oven shape ---less 5mm or so less all round--onto it ---cut and shaped --checked many times for a good fit----found a piece of aluminium cut out the shape and beat it around the plywood ---cut that cordierite sheet ---380 x 300 x12---to shape from the plywood buck---with angle grinder and tile cut disc ----cut the shape from both sides of the sheet ---so when it cracked at the last cutting --followed the line shape----polished edge with loads of old flap discs ----drilled holes into it with slow speed using metal work drill bits---made them blunt but easy to resharpen----tapped two holes in door ---and bolted alloy with cordierite sheet under neath ---onto it

theres some discussion on the ---forno bravo --site for building types of pizza oven  ---on doors and oven shapes of roof ---not ground breaking but helpfull---also on insulation and temp gauge position---heres a door made by ozovenbuilder--on the site ---they go in a lot for sealing up the door to maximize heat retention---then the vitcas site is having a sale---and some gauges they offer----otherwise its back to ---vintage recipes and cookery---where the old methods are explained of how to judge /estimate heat levels.

there might not be creosote ---but there is fine ash and soot that collects in the stove mostly in the top  under the ceramic glass area---these stoves still need to be cleaned out at some point ---hence the easy glasstop remove and Matts open black oven idea, so by having an enclosed box type of oven you must be able to access the oven box at some point ---or build in clean out doors---as for baking and roasting in the oven---well Matt has done this many times --so its just lots of experimentation for the rest of us to find that sweet spot----i dont think Matt  cooks or roasts  with an open pot ---uses lids --so the extreme smokey flavor wont be there---he is a barbeque  fanatic though i think---i am going to try out a cordierite pizza slab in my oven ---for extra heat retention----just been down to the l---idal  store and bought a few----they are on clear out section for a bargen ----also thinking (again slowly)----that these might be suitable to use in the firebox---well for mine at least ---as i used a hybrid mix of insulated firebrick for base and sides ---and two layers of 1/2 " ceramic fiberboard  as the ceiling/roof of it----its starting to get battered a bit ---its soft stuff ---so if at a later stage i could lift the c-glass off ---dismantle the top build section--- fit in pizza board cut to suit ---as a new firebox ceiling ---and put back the cfb layers over it---more work and experimental stuff

it had a water injection port at the back ---must have been a funnel of sorts to outside of the stove ---a shot of water poured in during some point in the baking of bread ---creates steam --moisture --improves the crust----not from my baking experiences --which is ---none---just from reading up on this

all opinions and questions are valid here, sorry not calling you out  ---just passing on my few pointers ---the walker stoves are quite  different from the average woodburn stove ---so no need for high temp paints---saving money---the bricks absorb all that heat and store it ---slowly releasing it back  ---different to your wood burn steel ones ---they throw out huge amount of heat ---while theres fuel to burn ---then they are done ---yes they will have some hot surface for awhile --so to get lasting heat ---the habit is to dampen it down ---and have a smoldering fire ---bad for your health and safety ---and to keep it looking decent ---have to use expensive high temp tolerant paint. The oven from a cast iron stove would be worthwhile to use ---if its cast iron ---which does nt spall and rust like mild steel does , ---would need to have a decent flange around it ---to work with when mounting this into brickwork-----the round part shape ---i dont think it makes much difference to how an oven works---advantage or not --i dont know ---only just put this in ---have not used the oven yet ----only the hot plate part of it. ---- barrel  is stainless steel --so should survive for awhile.---- i  did see some pics of old cast iron oven inserts for the old cast ranges that featured a curved shape on top ---these also had two iron rods --either side outside  of the oven box ---attached to a scrapper blade --which slid across the ovens  domed roof---by push and pull you could move the soot build up on top of the oven--

yes not for most , but the original idea is to help those who can t source or afford the nicer materials we can get to play with , its going to be a challenge to use only natural material ---there are some types of rock that will come closer to fire brick in performance---the donkey 32 site has info on use of them ---but if you cant source local ---its going to cost.

rest of the stove is hotter ---and just has ordinary matt black ---just a different cheap old brand of it---been running the stove for over a year---no issues yet --stove black is graphite paste---it rubs off constantly ---okay for a wood burn  type stove ---not being used as a cooker ---and as it dries out from the heat ---it dusts off ---i have used it on my older stoves---and done the black heat resistant paints---expensive and no longer lasting than cheap matt black ----none of the metal parts on the outside of a matt walker stove are being heated by direct flame --i just have to source my cheaper brand ---and it will work