M Rives

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since May 07, 2021
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Electrical engineer living off grid.
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Recent posts by M Rives

It seems like you could install a pee-trap for the pee and fill it with some magic blue trap sealant. This stuff is used in waterless urinals to reduce the urine smell and prevent anything from the septic tank / sewer from coming back into the room. It's lighter than urine so it will create a floating barrier on top of the fluid in the trap. Urine will pass through it. You will probably want to flush it out with a bucket of water from time to time and add a fresh supply. Here's a link to get you started down this drain, oops, I mean rabbit hole

https://www.waterless.com/blog/getting-to-know-blueseal

Or, you can search for 'waterless urinal fluid' to find out where to buy some. Amazon also has the waterless urinal cartridges which would work instead of a trap if you could figure out a way to plumb it in (maybe a Fernco flexible coupling onto a large pipe with a reducer?).
4 months ago

Rebecca Blake wrote:

I was asking this question not because we wish to build out of code, but because our home (framing is already up) is like 2 inches too short to accommodate stairs to code. The original floorplan had a ship's ladder but we are looking to put stairs in instead.



Hi Rebecca,

We originally planned for a spiral staircase but later decided to change our floor plan to use a more traditional staircase. Space was limited so we ended up with a winder design where the last few steps at the bottom turn 90 degrees. Code requires a minimum tread width at the narrow end of at least 6". We could not fit this into the space so made the conscious decision to violate the code believing that the mostly straight run of stairs would be both safer and preferable to a spiral staircase. I can say that the narrow end of the stairs is a bit more tricky to navigate and a wider tread would have been better but overall we are happy with the stairs. There are no building code inspections for framing in our area but other than the stairs everything has been verified by a structural engineer and built to (or usually better than) code.

There is a good visual guide to stair code in Colorado here:

https://timnath.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/2018-RESIDENTIAL-STAIR-GUIDE.pdf

Drawing 11 illustrates the area where we varied from code.

Our old house has very steep stairs where I have to place my foot twisted a bit to completely rest it on the tread. If you are only 2" short in the horizontal (or vertical) direction I doubt you will even notice it evenly spread over 12-16 treads.
Traveling for work provided a number of interesting culinary experiences, especially when with my manager. He would try anything, which encouraged the local team to try even harder to find something he would not eat. Don't play that game in Asia

On my first trip to China, a large group of us sat down in a private room at a restaurant. A dish with a large dome of foil on it (looked like Jiffy Pop popcorn) turned out to be deep-fried shrimp on sticks. They were maybe 3/4" in diameter, 6" long in the shell with their eyes looking up at me. Being new to this, I asked my manager about the proper way to eat it. He said, you just eat it... all of it. One of the customers had just gnawed the head off one, so I went for it. Very crunchy. After getting through the first one, I noticed the local guys on our sales team had removed the head and were peeling them.

Then there was the time when I managed to get not one, but two giant gelatinous bits the size of my index finger dipped into a bowl of soup. Pretty sure they were beef tendons cooked until soft but that's only a guess. Based on the texture, I always worked hard to avoid them after that experience.

Someone else mentioned stinky tofu. Yep, I tried it deep fried. It stinks. Unfortunately, when asked if I liked it, I said it was OK, so the whole plate jumped off the lazy susan right in front of me. A little goes a long way and I had enough for a couple of lifetimes that evening.

The camel hoof soup was so spicy hot that I only got a bit of the broth down before giving up. Watching the ladies dance with the 12' long anacondas later wrapped up a memorable evening. I know what you're thinking - same as I was thinking when they said "let's go downstairs and watch the dancers." It wasn't at all what I expected - the only visible skin was faces and hands. Seeing them dance among the audience and wrap the snakes around the other patrons encouraged me to stay waaaayyyy back.

Speaking of snakes, deep fried rattlesnake is OK if a bit greasy. It was fried, how could it be bad? The deep-fried shark we butchered on the tablesaw in the Caymans was good. I can also recommend deep fried ice cream sandwiches dipped in sopaipilla batter.

One item I've always wondered about was a long slender silver-gray thing I ate in China. It was about 1/8" in diameter and 3" long. It looked interesting so I tried one. Initially I thought it must be a vegetable but when I bit down, the crunchiness made me think of bones. Maybe some kind of seafood? They never told me what is was. The julienned jellyfish was like crunchy rice noodles - translucent and tasteless but good with a sauce on it.

When eating Peking duck, evidently the puffed up skin is the delicacy. I preferred the meat which was very good when eaten with sauce on little pancakes. While on the topic of poultry, a common Chinese dish is chunk chicken in clay pots. They cut up a chicken into 2" squares and stuff it into small clay pots about 3" across. Skin, meat and bones all together. It's boiled and then served cold. It's very challenging to eat (especially with an overbite) since you can't remove the bones with chopsticks - you just have to chew around the bones as best as you can then spit them out. If you are at a Chinese truck stop they put Plexiglas on the tables so you can spit the bones out anywhere that is convenient.

Chipped reindeer in a cream sauce with juniper berries is very tasty.

A neighbor gave us some canned bear meat which was great in beef stroganoff. Another neighbor gave us some grouse which was excellent in a mushroom cream sauce.

One of my favorite items was kangaroo tenderloin at the Three Crowns pub in England. The taste of the wild platter included venison, ostrich and kangaroo. Another favorite item was sushi in Japan.

Going out to eat with a group of coworkers in a foreign country definitely broadened my horizons. I never would have dreamed of ordering, much less eating a lot of the items I tried had I been on my own. It was definitely a blessing to experience all the different foods and cultures. If you get a chance to eat something unusual, go for it!
11 months ago
I got a quart canning jar full of freeze dried Skittles at a white elephant gift exchange. Who knew there was even such a thing? They puff up and explode leaving the outer candy shell on both sides of a white airy core. Initially, it appeared to be a jar full of marbles.

I gave a halogen shop light that is not very off-grid friendly since it draws 500W.
1 year ago

Anne Miller wrote:
So where can I get a mouse online?



I usually order stuff like mice and keyboards from Newegg or maybe Amazon (no relationship with either other than as a customer). Newegg lists some items which they ship and also items from other sellers. Normally, I click the filter for only items they ship since it's easier to deal with them if there is an issue. Here's a link to some of the mice they sell:

https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=101702349%208000&Order=3

You might also check the main menu at the top left for Mice & Keyboard Combos under Computer Peripherals if you want both.

I like mice with a cord since they tend to weigh less than the wireless ones with a battery. The latest batch I got were Logitech B100 and they seem to work well. That said, a wireless mouse like the Logitech 910 might be better for your use with a laptop since you don't have to worry about tripping on the cord and breaking something.

I do not recommend a Bluetooth mouse based on a horrible experience with  Microsoft Bluetooth keyboard. It always took a couple of keystrokes to wake up which made typing on it a nightmare.
1 year ago
I've bought panels from Sun Electronics a couple of times and gotten great prices. The first order was B-grade blemished. The bottom panel was cracked in shipping and they replaced it right away. That was about 15 years ago and they are still going strong. The next order was about 6 years ago for REC panels with a discontinued connector. I cut them off the panels at the end of each string and put on the latest connectors. I bought a couple of extra panels to have as spares since they were so affordable.

Their web page (https://www.sunelec.com) currently has panels for $0.33/W in NY. The latest newsletter had some used Powerlight 208s in Phoenix for $0.10/W  ($0.18/W on the web page) with a 20 year warranty from Sun Electronics.

They export all over the Caribbean so they can probably ship to you in Canada.

I have no affiliation with them other than as a satisfied customer.
1 year ago

Tom Moran wrote:One further question ( for now); where should the “ closely spaced tee” go if it’s needed?  Thanks.



I don't think you need closely spaced tees. As I understand it, closely spaced tees or hydraulic separators are used to isolate the primary (heat source) and secondary (load) parts of a system. Your heat exchanger will perform this function. It isolates the pump in the Navian loop from the pump in the floor loops.
1 year ago
Hi Tom,

The concept looks good to me. Using the Rinnai for both domestic hot water and space heating is clever.

Here are some things to consider:

1. Ideally, it's best to "pump away" from the expansion tank. This would require moving the expansion tank connection  to the pump input (after the loop return manifold and drain). Search "pumping away" for all the details.

2. A small expansion tank on the input side with the Rinnai is probably a good idea You may already have it to prevent water hammer.

3. You may want dirt separators or some kind of screen/filter on both sides of the heat exchanger. Flat plate heat exchangers have narrow passages can be clogged by particulates in the system.

4. You may want isolation / clean-out valves on both sides of the heat exchanger so you can more easily flush / descale it when you flush the Rinnai (required maintenance). In this open system where you have combined domestic hot water with space heating, more scale-causing minerals will be introduced all the time. Maybe include a summer bypass loop around the heat exchanger input since it's only one more valve?

5. The storage might not be required depending on the heat demand and the ability of the Rinnai to turn down low enough. If it short cycles, the storage tank will help prevent that.

6. When the floor is calling for heat the Rinnai might not be able to keep up with the total demand. Like if too many showers are running with the washing machine, etc. This seems unlikely, but an unexpected warm / cool shower could result.

7. Make sure the air bleed is at the highest point. You may need more than one (manual air bleeds don't cost too much). The manifolds I bought include air bleeds.
1 year ago

Tom Moran wrote:Update for anyone still interested..
Just found the manual for my rinnai ru199i tankless water heater- it indicates that minimum temperature is 98 degrees and minimum flow is 0.26 gpm. Does that make it usable for the hydronic system?  Thanks



Hi Tom,

It depends on your heating demand. I might be willing to try it and see what happens but keep in mind that I'm just some dude on the Internet

For example, our new place is very thermally efficient with low air leakage (I hope). The worst case heating demand (coldest daily average temp for our location of 8F) is estimated at about 6 BTU/Hour per square foot. Looking at a single zone (multiple loops / rooms) of 2300 square feet with a target temperature of 68F, that will require about 1.75GPM at 85F to generate a surface temp of about 70F on an insulated concrete slab. The finish floor is polished concrete so there is no heat loss due to floor coverings. Many days it will be warmer outside so the input water temperature would be less than 85F due to lower heat demand.

In my case, the Rinnai would need to cycle on and off quite a lot even at its lowest setting. Using an air temperature thermostat there will be some overshoot. A PWM type controller and a floor temp sensor would reduce the overshoot but the Rinnai would cycle on and off more frequently. Check out the Tekmar essay on controls to see how this might work.

It sounds like your heat demand is greater than mine (you said lots of windows) so the Rinnai minimum 98F water temp might be OK. You might need to turn it up more, but with engineered hardwood flooring you have to be careful. Check the flooring warranty and their requirements on the max temp allowed. The hardwood will reduce the heat output but your thin 1" slab will have less loss than my 4" slab and it will be much more responsive due to less thermal mass.

Calculating everything out to get a better idea of what will happen is always a good idea. Especially if you plan to add more zones and an outdoor wood boiler in the future. Or, you could just wing it and see what happens

If you want to calculate it, the Uponor Complete Design Assistance Manual (CDAM) will walk you through the process with examples you can follow. Initially, I built a spreadsheet using the same equations provided in the CDAM. The results were surprisingly close to what I got with LoopCAD.
1 year ago
This has turned into quite the wild goose chase for hydronics system design and controls info. I'll add a couple more helpful links that I had forgotten about.

John Siegenthaler is a consulting engineer who has written a huge amount of material on hydronics including a text book. PM Magazine put together 5 volumes of his articles which you can find here:

https://www.pmmag.com/articles/102245-modern-hydronics-done-right
https://www.pmmag.com/articles/102246-modern-hydronics-done-right-volume-2
https://www.pmmag.com/articles/102247-modern-hydronics-done-right-volume-3
https://www.pmmag.com/articles/102414-modern-hydronics-done-right-volume-4
https://www.pmmag.com/articles/102550-modern-hydronics-done-right-volume-5

Tekmar also has some technical essays on topics like "Hydronic Requirements", "Heat Curves and Reset Ratios", "Control Strategies" and Control of Radiant Floor Zones" among others:

https://www.watts.com/our-story/brands/tekmar/references/essays

Sorry about turning the info firehose on you, but this is great stuff for anyone wanting to know more (a LOT more ) about hydronic system design and operation.
1 year ago