Barbara Simoes

I love three bean salad; it is made with vinegar, but I'd have to check a recipe to see how it's done, but it might be another option.

I forgot to mention that I have taught myself how to can and preserve.  The Ball jars, of course, can be reused over and over.  I also make wine--same thing; the bottles are used over and over again.  I dehydrate, freeze and freeze-dry food, which again, can be stored in reuseable containers.

I just checked and that variety doesn't grow this far north.  I love the taste of Gerardi; maybe it has something to do with where it's grown.  I just looked up the steps on how to propagate it, and air-layering is the most successful, although they are considered very hard to do...kind of surprising for a mulberry, but whatever!  Here is what I found in case you'd like to try it for other varieties:
How to propagate a Dwarf Gerardi Mulberry
I grow Dwarf Gerardi and love it, but I understand that it is hard to propagate.
You are completely right: the Dwarf Gerardi mulberry is notoriously difficult to propagate using standard methods.
Why Dwarf Gerardi is Tricky
• Rooting failure: Hardwood and softwood cuttings have an exceptionally low success rate compared to other mulberries, often rotting before they can develop roots.
• Grafting required: Because it roots so poorly on its own, commercial nurseries almost exclusively propagate it by grafting it onto vigorous, cold-hardy Morus alba (White Mulberry) rootstock.
Best Propagation Methods
• Chip Budding: Done in late summer, taking a single bud from your Dwarf Gerardi and inserting it into the side of a wild mulberry rootstock.
• Whip and Tongue Grafting: Performed in early spring when the rootstock is waking up but your Dwarf Gerardi scion wood is still completely dormant.
• Air Layering: A slightly higher-success alternative to regular cuttings, performed on a live branch during the active spring growing season, though it still requires patience and luck.

Air layering bypasses the Dwarf Gerardi’s poor rooting ability by keeping the branch fed by the parent plant while roots form.
Setup and Timing
• Timing: Late spring to early summer (May to June) when the plant is actively growing and the bark slips easily.
• Branch Selection: Choose a healthy, pencil-thick branch from last year's growth that receives good sunlight.
Step-by-Step Process
  [ Active Branch ]
  =================

    |  |<- 1-inch ring of bark removed
  =======X=========  <- Scrape away green cambium layer

    |  |
  =================
• The Cut: Cut a 1-inch ring of bark completely off the branch.
• Scrape the Cambium: Use a knife to gently scrape away the slippery, green inner cambium layer down to the bare wood. If you skip this, the bark will just heal over instead of growing roots.
• Apply Hormone like willow water onto the top edge of the cut.
• The Rooting Ball: Soak a handful of sphagnum peat moss or coconut coir in water and squeeze it out until it is damp like a wrung-out sponge.
• Wrap and Seal: Pack the moss around the cut, wrap it tightly in clear plastic wrap, and secure both ends with electrical tape to lock in moisture.
Care and Harvesting
• Sun Protection: Wrap aluminum foil or cardboard over the plastic to keep the roots dark and prevent the sun from overheating the moss.
• Check for Roots: Gently peel back the foil after 6 to 8 weeks to check for white roots pressing against the plastic.
• The Separation: Once you see a thick network of roots, cut the branch directly below the plastic wrap, pot it up in a shaded area, and keep it highly humid until it adjusts.

I need more details on the separation step: I'm assuming I remove the plastic, but how deeply is it planted in the pot. How do I keep it humid--tape a plastic bag to the pot? How long should the branch be when choosing where to peel the bark back?
Branch Length Strategy
• Total Length: Choose a branch section that is 12 to 18 inches long from the tip to your air-layer cut.
• The Reason: Anything longer will have too many leaves for the brand-new, fragile root ball to support.
• Emergency Trim: If your perfect branch is too long, simply prune the top back to a length of 12–18 inches right before you begin the potting process.
Planting Depth and Plastic Removal
• Remove All Plastic: Carefully cut away the tape and peel off the plastic wrap, taking extreme care not to break the fragile, brittle new roots.
• Leave the Moss: Do not try to pick the sphagnum moss out of the roots; plant the entire moss ball exactly as it is.
• Planting Depth: Plant the root ball so the top of the moss sits exactly level with or 1/2 inch below the surface of your new potting soil.
• The Danger: Planting it deeper will bury the stem, which can cause the bark to rot and kill your new tree.
Constructing the Humidity Tent
       +---------------+

       |  Plastic Bag  |  <- Inverted over the plant
       |   +-------+   |
       |   | Plant |   |
       |   +-------+   |
       +---|-------|---+

           |  Pot  |      <- Bag slides over the rim
           +-------+
• The Structure: Push 3 or 4 tall bamboo stakes or chopsticks into the soil around the perimeter of the pot to act as tent poles.
• The Cover: Place a large, clear plastic bag (like a 2-gallon Ziploc or a clear trash bag) upside down over the plant, using the stakes to keep the plastic from touching the wet leaves.
• Securing the Base: Pull the opening of the bag down past the rim of the pot and wrap a large rubber band, twine, or tape around the outside of the pot to seal it.
• Moisture Balance: Mist the inside of the bag with water before sealing it, and place the setup in deep, ambient shade (never direct sunlight, which will cook the plant).
The Hardening Off Timeline
• Weeks 1–2: Keep the bag completely sealed to maintain near 100% humidity.
• Week 3: Cut a few small, 1-inch slits in the top corners of the bag to slowly introduce drier air.
• Week 4: Open the bottom of the bag slightly or cut more holes.
• Week 5: Remove the bag entirely if the leaves remain perky and do not wilt.
Would you like advice on the best potting soil mix to prevent root rot during this high-humidity phase, or tips on how to overwinter this young clone in Vermont once it is established?

Both would be handy. Can I keep the pot on my north facing covered back porch or even in the house?
Ideal Potting Soil Mix
• The Goal: You need maximum drainage because the high-humidity tent holds in moisture. Standard potting soil stays muddy for too long, which will rot the delicate new roots.
• The Recipe: Mix 50% high-quality potting soil and 50% perlite or coarse sand.
• The Action: Do not pack the soil down tightly. Pour it gently around the root ball and water it once thoroughly to settle it.
Placement: North Porch vs. Indoors
• North-Facing Covered Porch: This is the perfect spot for the first 4 to 5 weeks. It provides the deep, ambient shade the plant needs while it is trapped inside the plastic bag. Direct sunlight on the bag will act like a greenhouse and literally cook the clone.
• Moving Indoors: You can bring it inside, but only place it near a bright window that gets zero direct sun. However, indoor air lacks airflow, which can encourage mold growth inside your humidity tent. The porch is much better until the bag comes off.
Overwintering Your Clone in Vermont
Because your new Dwarf Gerardi is a clone, its root system is much smaller and more vulnerable to freezing than your established parent tree.
• The Problem: A plant in a container cannot tolerate Vermont’s extreme winters (Zone 3b–5b) because the freezing air surrounds the pot and kills the root system.
• Option 1: The Unheated Garage/Basement (Easiest): Let the potted clone stay outside on your porch through autumn until it drops all its leaves naturally. Once it is completely dormant, move the pot into an unheated garage, shed, or cold basement. The temperature should stay between 30°F and 45°F (-1°C to 7°C). Check it once a month and give it just a tiny splash of water so the soil doesn't turn into bone-dry dust.
• Option 2: Plant It Late (Risky): If you remove the plastic bag by late July or early August, you can plant it directly into the ground by mid-August. This gives it 6 to 8 weeks to grow roots into the warm earth before winter. If you do this, bury the base under a heavy 6-inch blanket of wood chip mulch in late November to insulate the roots.

Dave, I tried doing this with my Dwarf Gerardi, but it didn't take.  I am thinking I will try layering once all of the fruiting is done.  I would love to have a nice spring surprise of extra plants!

There is also the process of layering, which is just taking a lower branch, and using a landscape staple, push the staple around said lower branch until it makes contact with the ground.  Some plants will root this way.  When that happens, you can cut it away from the "mother" plant and plant it where you'd like.  Air layering is also an option: Wound the stem: Make a small cut or remove a ring of bark from a healthy branch to expose the inner wood. Apply rooting hormone: Put rooting powder on the exposed area to help roots grow faster. Wrap the wound: Cover the cut with damp sphagnum moss or coco coir. Seal it: Wrap plastic film around the moss to trap moisture, and cover it with foil to block light. Cut and pot: Wait a few weeks for roots to form inside the moss, then cut the stem below the roots and plant it in soil.

It sounds to me like even you are having big doubts about the property.  Follow your gut.  I put a lot of stock in instinct.  Don't rush into anything, especially when you're questioning whether it's right.  Deep down, it sounds like you know.  Trust yourself and just wait until the one that makes you excited comes along.  Writing a list of needs or non-negotiables can be helpful or even a pros and cons list of the piece of land you're considering.  I don't know your age, but are you up for all the work this parcel demands? Don't jump on the first thing just because it fits your budget...

I would probably write it up and stick the note in their mailbox.  That way, you'd be able to compose your thoughts, take the high ground but express your frustrations in a tactful way instead of being drawn in by their ignorance in the moment.  Remember the principle that talks about every problem is a solution.  I think digging small patches and planting them along the road is a wonderful idea.  I have Regent serviceberries the length of my front yard and bordering the sidewalk.  To my knowledge, people leave them alone but boy, do the birds go after them!  My strategy has always been to plant more than I can use, and then sharing is effortless.  I have 40 blueberry bushes out back, and I have some friends who come and pick.  I have more than enough for me, and they too, get enough to be really grateful!  I don't know what your land situation is, but could some be transplanted onto a patch that is truly not the right of way, like maybe the other side of the ditch?

The other thing I want to say is that (easier said than done) you don't want to hang on to anger.  It gives the negative power.  Take it as a lesson. Decide next steps and let the past go.  You will be healthier for it.  I certainly understand it.  You've done all that work, and then some people just swoop in to reap the reward after doing nothing to help.  Consider the source and move on!  They sound like dreadful neighbors, but it is best to keep the peace (while not being a pushover).

My father was an artist who took 2nd place in an international font contest back in the '70's before computers were a thing.  He did a number of illuminated pieces as special gifts for family that I still have to this day.  I was always fastinated to see how intricate the work was and that first letter had so much detail.  Because of that idea, I brought it into a unit that I taught to middle schoolers while I was teaching English.(7th and 8th graders) where they were to write an original fairy tale/fantasy story, bind it into book form with their illustrations and maps, that they would then read to kindergarteners. Each day, I started with a brief lesson in character, theme, setting, how to write dialogue, etc., and then they would do a short exercise to practice and we would read excerpts that were great exemplars of the lesson that we could really tear apart.  I also showed them many examples of calligraphy and illuminated letters using the Smartboard as well as maps found in fantasy books that they were familiar with: The Hobbit, etc. It was not not a college art class and it's not the content I needed to concentrate on, but I did want them to end up with a wonderful keepsake at the end and have a little extra knowledge about such things.  We even marbelized paper for endnotes, and I had them write up an "About the Author" and a dedication along with a map and compass rose of where their story took place.  They wanted to learn how to use a thesaurus to get the perfect word-choice.

I gave them the option of calligraphy or using the computer. I allowed them to type their stories choosing an appropriate font but, of course, they all wanted to do some illuminated letters. I didn't want them to get frustrated; what if they made a mistake on the last word they wrote or even the twentieth if hand writing in calligraphy? Typing their story allowed for easy editing and no smudging! They could easily print out the pages where they wanted the illuminated letters. I showed them how to use an outline letter in the font of their choosing and increase its size.

We, as I said, looked at lots of examples and we discussed how it was done, but I just had them use the paint that comes in the little plastic bottles and cost maybe $0 .99 at Micheal's!  My goal was to have them create something that would be attractive and that they could take pride in, without a huge investment in time and money. I wanted them to see themselves as authors and as role models for the littles at the elementary school.   Frustration can kill enthusiasm and I surely didn't want that. All of my students were so invested that they wrote so much more than I'd ever seen them write. They were willing to do re-writes. Knowing they'd have a real audience, they proofread regularly. I watched them run ideas by classmates and read sections to them that they were unsure about and then get real advice in return, instead of the usual, "It's good." They were so proud of their final volumes and many made a second book that they gave to their kindergarten partner.  One student's book was more than 80 typewritten pages!  After walking over to the elementary school and knowing we had to walk back, there wasn't time for her to read her whole book. (It really was over the head of her kindergartener!)  It was a stellar story about gargoyles and I was rivited while reading it.  Her illustrations were spectacular and she bound it and then used purple velvet as a cover with an aged-looking charm in the middle.  It was stunning!  It was such a rewarding unit for all of us!

These kids were never even taught cursive writing in elementary school.  I had to dedicate some class time to teaching them how to write cursive and especially, read it!  I found this out when one student raised her hand to tell me that my handwriting was beautiful, but no one could read it!  I asked them if it was something that they wanted to learn.  Yes, was the resounding answer.  I dedicated 5-10 minutes of practice for a few weeks and then every once in a while as a refresher.  We had beauty contests using the Elmo and Smartboard for their writing.  It was a hoot! I used the "Caught Ya" sentences to do double-duty.  (It's a story line broken down into individual sentences with all sorts of errors that need to be found and corrected.) Many chose to continue with cursive and then did all assignments using it.  Because of this hole in their education, many students' motor skills really lacked the skills for fine motor coordination required to do calligraphy. I really didn't want them to choose this option anyway because concentrating on one letter at a time takes away from the thought process of writing. It would have just taken to much time without it being something that I was in my curriculum.

I'm wondering if you've teamed up with the art teacher (Maybe you are the art teacher!) and whether she could take some of the process on?  Gold prices are exorbanent and I question whether or not they'd appreciate the fact that it was real gold or not.  I don't think the project needs to be so literal in its interpretation of an art form.  The ages you mention just don't make sense for the expense and care that would need to be taken.  What goal do you have for them by using real gold?  Would too much be lost by not using it? What are your goals or standards that you're hoping to teach and is this the most efficient way to teach them? Would a quick mini-lesson on the process be possible?  I understand the idea of learning by experience, and I think they can still have a rich (no pun intended) experience even when using fake gold paint.  Many brands have many shades of gold that are very effective.  It's not a college art class and I think it would take a lot of pressure off both you and your students.  

Most years, I was able to teach Ancient History instead of English, which I loved because I could do so many hands on projects.   I loved making props for each unit; with early humans, I went to Joann Fabric and got some fake animal fur to make pelts for some skits.  Of course, Egypt and Rome had toga type clothing that I made from muslin.  I did these things because kids would love to volunteer for anything if they could get dressed up! I pre-dug and buried small objects and gridded off areas with string for students in groups of four to experience what an archeological dig would be like...sort of. I ordered trowels and tape measures, had paint brushes and clipboards and got lots of small toys to bury at various depths.  I got little dinosaurs and all sorts of fun stuff for them to plot.  I had them make an extra credit "clay brick" to kick off the Mesopotamia unit, and cooked a Mesopotamian feast to end it. It was sort of like on Survivor when it started out, but I didn't have bugs for them to eat!  The thing that bothered them the most was plain yogurt and dates, believe it or not! We did an amazing simulation that got at the heart of going from hunter-gatherers to the Neolithic Age. It was called "Empires" and it took a bit of revamping; the directions that came with it where not good. When studying Egypt, one of the things we did was we went outside to measure and square the base of the Great Pyramid.  I always wanted to make learning hands-on and fun, but have real learning at its heart, so I get what you are trying to do. I just worry that you will frustrate yourself and your students and I am not sure about its age-appropriateness.

When deciding on how to approach a lesson, I would always ask myself, "In five or ten years, what will they remember from this, and does it really matter that they learn it to be considered well-rounded and well-educated? Does it help with overall understanding of a concept?"  The "brick" was questionable, so that was an extra-credit HW. assignment that they didn't have to participate in, and I didn't have to spend lots of classroom time and clean up to do!  I had a wonderful colleague who drummed it into me to "game" things and that stuck with me.  If kids are having fun, they will learn. The kids who chose to participate had to pass three tests: Could I break the brick with my bare hands? Could it stay together after soaking in a bucket of water for a minute and could it support fifty pounds? (I borrowed the 50 lbs. from the gym's weight room!) I had Chris Bohalian's daughter in my class, and he was so intrigued by that project that he wrote an article for the local paper.  It was pretty funny to read how she had gotten a late start but had gone out and dug lots of clay and then mixed it with straw and then tried to dry it in the oven in time for class the next day!  They had more than a week of lead time! A lesson in procrastination if nothing else, I suppose!  

I am considering removing my inground pool.  I was wondering instead of filling the hole with "fill" could I fill it in with lumber, leaves and woodchips and the like? I could toss in all sorts of prunings and weed debris and keep it covered with the pool cover until full and broken down...  I've never considered this method before because there really was no place that I'd want a giant mound and the soil here is really quite fertile.  It's an 1850's homestead that had horses, cows, chickens, apple trees etc. on the one acre.