other website wrote:
Dig a big pit, about one-and-a-half spade depths.
Line the bottom half of the pit (half a spade depth) with plastic sacks. No matter if the sacks are not watertight or if you have to overlap two or three to cover the bottom of the hole - but as long as they cover enough of the soil and come halfway up the sides of the hole, to slow the drainage.
Fill with an equal mix of compost and ordinary garden soil.
Water very heavily with rainwater.
The idea is that several inches down, the drainage will be impeded, so the soil remains heavy, which in turn, absorbs acidic atmospheric gases and behaves just like acid rain.
The upper level not being lined with plastic sacks allows overflow of excess water (to prevent drowining) and allows some air access for the roots to not suffocate.
The blueberries can then find the ideal wetness and acidity for their roots to work best. In addition, the very heavy/boggy soil deeper down takes a long time to dry out, so the blueberries don't need much watering.
tel jetson wrote:
the reason plants prefer a particular range of pH has to do with which ions are in solution at each point on that scale. the nice thing about really good dirt is that there's a lot of buffering going on that keeps ions in solution at a wider pH range than would otherwise be expected.
so adjusting pH is one way to make the necessary ions available to a plant, but improving the dirt is another and frequently easier option.
William James wrote:
Oh my goodness, that is awesome!
Now I have something to reply to those people religiously amending their soil before planting (and telling me I can't put a blueberry down without first investing in mineral concoctions.)