Questions about logging/forest management

I want to harvest some of my mature hardwoods and use the cash to fund other homestead projects waiting in the wings. I found this online timber-evaluating calculator and am wondering how much of the cut I could expect after the logger and sawmill get their share. Also, I can’t determine the height of my mature trees. The best I can figure by eyeballing them is 40-50 feet. I’m in North Georgia Smoky Mountains with a forest of white oak, chestnut oak, maple, poplar, black locust, hickory, a few white pine, holly, blueberries, and muscadines. The oaks, maples, poplars, and pine are the species I’m interested in logging and they are up to 26” in diameter.

https://treeplantation.com/tree-value-calculator.html

Venessa,

I have checked the calculator and I would not consider it of any value unless you divide the estimation.
First I selected White Pine, 20" diameter and 80 ft tall. It showed the value of $2960. I was getting custom milled 12x12 beams from White Fir at $1.5 per bdft, and from such a tree ca 960 bdft could be milled (if it was a straight cylinder) and at the price of $1.5 it would give income of $1440 to the sawyer, but not the profit! He would still have to fell the tree, chop off the branches, cut it, load it and transport it. After that he would have to use heavy equipment yo load it on the sawmill and finally saw it. Tons of labor, so in my opinion he could pay at most $500 per such a tree if not less, so it would be 6 times less than what the calculator is showing. He would also accept only very straight and healthy trees.

Then I used the same measurements, but for Eucalyptus (generic) and it gave me $3360. Last week I felled and cut 20 eucalyptuses, usually 10" (some 20") diameter. I wish it would in some magical way convert into 20*$1680=$33600, but it will not, because Red River Eucalyptus lumber is almost impossible to season without laboratory conditions - it cracks, twists, collapses. Because of that it's rather useless, but nonetheless I still keep all thick logs. When they get pre-dried for 2 years I will mill them. That's the only way for me to get some quality lumber. It's better to mill them dry and expect that the shape remains intact than mill green and experience 90% failure. When it's seasoned, it's hard, resistant, gorgeous after oiling, and maybe worth the amount of money that it was suggested, but to get there is almost impossible.