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Pruning Tomato Suckers when not Living on the Farm Site

 
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Although I've always pruned the suckers on my tomato plants when I've home-gardened in the past, at my current farm internship in Cincinnati, the farm owner does not prune the suckers off her tomato plants since she says that the process would be too time-intensive for her situation. It is worth noting that she does not live immediately next to her growing fields so she has to drive thirteen minutes from her house to her two urban farm fields that are one mile apart from each other. Each of the two farm fields has fifty-five tomato plants for a total of one hundred and ten plants. The total driving time to and from her house both ways is about thirty minutes not counting the time required to wash and unload farm tools from her truck. There is a strong possibility that the time required to prune her tomato plants each week would be close to the time required for her to travel to and from her fields each week, but I just want to confirm with any other Permies forum members who have experience with commercial vegetable growing

On a separate farm that I've visited in the past that's farther north in Dayton, the owner carefully prunes the suckers off all of her tomato plants with miniature plant shears and sanitizes her shears after pruning each plant. Another separate Dutch farmer on YouTube also prunes all of the suckers on his tomato plants and cuts off the lower branches on his plants to allow maximum air circulation. For both of these two farm businesses, there is a strong possibility that the owner lives on-site, especially for the Dutch farmer. I will attempt to ask both of them to confirm.

For anyone who wants to watch the Dutch Farmer's tomato pruning video, here is the YouTube link below:
 
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My community believes that pruning damages tomato plants, and reduces yields. Traditionally here, tomatoes grow sprawling on the ground.

 
Ryan M Miller
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Joseph Lofthouse wrote:My community believes that pruning damages tomato plants, and reduces yields. Traditionally here, tomatoes grow sprawling on the ground.


In the wild, andean currant tomatoes (S. pimpinellifolium) and galapagos tomatoes (S. cheesmaniae) don't have to be pruned. The vines simply sprawl on the ground and take up secondary roots where the stems touch the ground. Then, any wildlife simply walks into the thick vines, eats the fruit and spreads the seeds once it goes to poop out the fruit remains.

For farmers, they usually desire to prune tomato plants to a single stem to make them easier to harvest and maximize airflow for domesticated tomatoes as a precaution against late blight and fungal disease.

Keep in mind that domesticated cultivars of tomatoes usually have poor resistance to late blight and fungal infections compared with wild tomatoes, with the exception of a few semi-wild cultivars of cherry tomatoes. As a result, many cultivars of tomatoes, even in a frost-free climate, never make it past their first growing season.

Conversely, most semi-wild cherry tomatoes and fully wild tomatoes have excellent resistance to fungal diseases so they often survive as short-lived perennials in frost-free climates living three or more years.

As for me, the main reason I've been pruning my tomatoes to a single stem in the past is to make them easier to harvest without potentially snapping secondary tomato stems and to reduce the risk that the secondary stems will make a trellised tomato plant too top-heavy and vulnerable to storm damage. The storm damage risk is more of a concern if the secondary branches are not already rooted in the ground.
 
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