Building trusses

I have my layout the way I like it but to take advantage of the space I have I made the walls at strange angles. How hard will it be to build trusses for a building that’s not square? I have only ever installed pre made trusses but I am milling lumber and building these in place. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Welcome to permies, Alex
It is good to have a measured drawing to give advice from, but we still need more information to really be helpful.

From the faint lines on the drawing, it looks like you are planning an L-shaped gabled roof, with one side of one leg varying in width. I also note posts at various points in the walls. I presume you plan to span across those gables with triangular trusses. How are you thinking of handling the area at the L? A long diagonal truss for half-trusses to butt into? On the varying width section, are you going to slope the top of the wall to let the roof slope be constant, or keep the wall flat and vary the roof slope?

What sort of structure framing are you thinking of? Post and beam, or studs? What truss spacing are you planning?

The varying width part is what I’m struggling with! Should I make the wall taller gradually to keep the same roof pitch? Or possibly keep the roof square and have more of an overhang on part of that wall? The other option would be to keep the wall height but that would make the pitch steep as the roof gets narrower. I’m just not sure what the right option is. Maybe there’s a better solution that I’m not thinking of.

The walls will be post framed infilled with light  straw clay but I was planning on making the trusses more traditional. 2 foot on center and a long diagonal truss at the hip. I am planning a L shaped gabled roof. Probably around a 3:12.

If you go for a 3:12 pitch on the narrow wing, the wider wing would necessarily have a shallower pitch on the square side and potentially an even more shallow pitch on the tapered side.

There is another possibility: keeping eaves and pitch constant and angling the ridge to split the tapering total width, thus rising a bit toward the free end. It may make a difference what kind of roofing you plan. Shingles could adapt to a very gently twisting roof plane, while metal roofing might not.

Varying the overhang to have a constant pitch and eave height is feasible. Adjusting the truss details for the varying bearing point is not trivial but not difficult. What direction does that wall face? Solar and weather exposure could be relevant considerations. Some wall surface materials really want an overhang for protection while others don't care so much. I would guess that a light straw clay wall core wants an overhang.

I think that’s the answer!! Changing the height of the ridge gradually will keep the roof deck the same plane and I can keep a deep overhang! I was concerned about protecting the walls. I am planning metal as well and I wasn’t sure how that would twist if I did the roof that way. Thanks for the help!! I have been delaying digging that last footing thinking I might have to square up my building. Now I can continue work knowing there is a solution!