Making tops with cut-on sleeves

One of the simplest woven tops to make is a pull on style boxy top with cut-on sleeves. Cut-on/grow-on sleeves are related and sometimes exchangeable with kimono sleeves or dolman sleeves. The common thing is that there is no curvy shoulder seam so the sleeves part is extended from the bodice on a flat surface. Thus this style of tops have the following features because of excess fabric required to go around the armhole.

Folds underarm
Boxy looking
Wider sleeve width


Though it's easy to sew, some people find the boxy top unattractive and there are ways to reduce the bulk and add some shaping to it, such as:

Choice of fabric: use fabric with better drape instead of crisp one
Sleeve length: short sleeves or cap sleeves
Adding darts: shoulder, bust, or French darts
Adding underarm gussets: addition of gusset reduces sleeve width while giving more arm mobility

Do you make such tops? What pattern do you like? Let's share.

I want to write a bit about the pattern drafting since I have seen more and more poor fitting RTW tops with cut-on sleeves in recent years. Those tops and dresses are so uncomfortable or even painful to wear because one can't even raise the arms to drive without the sleeves binding tightly.  I am suspecting the outsourcing of garment industry cause a decline in quality pattern making, at least for cheaper clothes.

When a cut-on sleeve pattern is superimposed on a fitted bodice, you will see the difference in shoulder slope angle as well as different shoulder point and armhole positions:

Noted the steeper angle for the fitted dress.

In the ill-fitting ready-to-wear dress, I think the manufacturer simply extend the shoulder line of a fitted bodice and lower the armhole to compensate for the armhole foldline.



So I made mockups for my doll to test it out.
T his is the correct drafting, dartless

On the doll

Another one with French dart with correct shoulder angle. Arm can be raised without distorting the hanging


This  one with steep shoulders


Look at the mess.


Luckily, pattern companies won't make such basic mistakes. However, if you have more straight or slopey shoulders you can apply the same principles and adjust the pattern accordingly.

I went through my drawer and found some vintage patterns with cut-on sleeves though they didn't mention specifically in the descriptions. Here are some interesting design details in case you can't see them clearly in the pictures.

Simplicity 5328
Adding bust dart to reduce bulk. Zipper needed in the back. Noted the short distance between the underarm and dart.  Sometimes it can be hard to add a bust dart here. Bust dart can be easily rotated into a French dart.

Vogue 8225
With cowl neck. The back piece is on straight grain and the front is on bias.

McCalls 3241
Cap sleeves. Noted how the sleeve length appears much shorter on the flat pattern. Such a length is flattering and creating a slimming effect from shoulder to waist. On the contrary, long and wide sleeves with crisp fabric add a lot of volumn to the look.
This one also has a shoulder dart.

In last picture I want to demonstrate the effect of fabric stiffness. Compared to the quilting cotton I used in the previous post, this white blouse was made with drapey crepe de chine. I like the soft fold.