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How do you leach manure? Is leaching necessary for thermogenesis pasteurized compost?

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First question is in the title: how do you leach manure on a small-medium scale?

For manure compost that is pasteurized through thermogenesis, is it necessary to leach manure? Or is leached manure used simply because it is more available than un-leached manure? I was under the impression that most of the free nitrogen in compost ends up evaporating out of the pile so I have a hard time imagining why the nitrogen has to be leached out in the first place unless you are trying to utilize it in the field or garden.

If I were not to use thermogenesis to pasteurize manure (either because I prefers not to or because it doesn't work) and I pasteurized it in a barrel of hot water the way we do with straw instead. Would this leach out enough of the nitrogen compounds to make it usable thereby obtaining a pasteurized substrate and a lecheate for fertilizing the garden? Or would too much nitrogen still remain? In this scenario, I would be spreading the manure 6 inches thick onto vegetable beds then inoculating so that it is not thick enough to heat up too much through subsequent thermogenesis.

On this subject, other composts contain lots of nitrogen too. Would a compost made up of shredded leaves and crass clipping for instance also require leaching? I just realized that the substrates that i know secondary decomposers usually grow in: spent mushroom compost, leaf litter, pine needles, with the exception of manure are all low in nitrogen.
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OK , let's take this one step at a time. Many fungi, such as Agaricus, like to live in manure or in soils with lots of high nitrogen , such as from manure. Rudolf Steiner rather wisely talked about manure being in balance with the land when the right number and size of animals were used on the land. When you have manure, it can get really hot. You want to mix it with straw, wood chips, leaves or some other brown source so it doesn't get too hot/concentrated in nitrogen. Manure lasts much longer as a fertilizer than liquid or synthetic fertilizers, and combined with these or similar substrates should help keep a nice and lively fertile soil. Don't put it directly on leafy greens. Let it mature over time or put it below fruit trees now that have already fruited, such as cherries, silverberry, goumi, or selected Asian plums.

I wouldn't heat it. I would let it do its magic. Then use it.
John S
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