Steve Lansing wrote:What variety/ source is recommended for me to purchase Paw Paw for my property and how best to prep the clay to allow best growth? Also full sun or part shade? Thanks.
J Webb wrote:This week I added two Paw Paw trees to our property. I purchased a "Mango" and a "Shenandoah" cultivar from Logee's. They arrived in good condition.
My understanding is that the young trees prefer a bit of shade, so I placed them in the shade of the Norway Maple which dominates our small yard. The ground is mostly clay which I amended with some potting soil, pearlite, & vermiculite.
Does anyone else have these varieties of Paw Paw? I'd love to hear how they are working out for you!
Susan Nusser wrote:Hi Michael!
I have two pawpaws in my very urban plot in southeastern Wisconsin. I planted them about ten years ago and for the last couple of years, they've had a ton of baby fruit in the spring that disappears before it grows into actual pawpaws. At first I thought it was the squirrels, so this year I netted the trees, but still had problems because I think the birds were getting the small fruit. I'd like to have more netting coverage, but that means I'm going to have to prune the tree so I can fit the netting around it. Will pawpaws fruit on new growth and how much pruning can they take? I live in the city, so I like little fruit trees (i have a triple-grafted apple, a cherry and two hazelnuts). I have a neighbor about three blocks away who does not have any problem with birds and squirrels in her pawpaws, so I'm wondering what I can do to get more fruit for myself and less for the critters.
Mk Neal wrote:Welcome, Mr. Judd! I have wanted to grow paw paw ever since first trying one. Just got my first harvest this year (two fruits).
I have a question about the shoots that the trees produce. My two trees are four years old now, and have begun putting up a lot of shoots within about ten foot radius of main trunks. If I leave these be, will they grow into trees in their own right, forming a grove? Also, are the shoots beneficial to the “parent” tree?
Rene Gobeyn wrote:Welcome Michael, I'm new to this topic, and forums in general so I hope I won't be repeating questions that have been answered elsewhere.
I will be starting to farm again in NW (upstate) NY this summer (zone 6A) I have two overgrown hillsides that I plan to convert to fruit & nut permaculture orchards. Will paw-paws work in this area? If so, should they be planned as understory, or primary trees.
I have checked with the neighbors and nobody has ever seen paw-paws growing in this region so I am wondering if I should include them in my planning
Thank you for your inputs
Vernon Inverness wrote:I've had the privilege of eating a pawpaw fruit once and that was enough to know that I want to make it a regular part of the rest of my life. I have, unfortunately, never seen pawpaw trees growing in the wild here during my foraging forays. What is the best way to get started growing them (i.e. - seed vs. root-stock) and will they thrive in my area?
Andrea Locke wrote:I am interested in advice on several aspects of paw paw cultivation.
(1) Producing paw paw fruit. I live on a small island off Vancouver Island on the west coast of Canada. The winters here are mild (usually rainy from October through April with temperatures dipping to just above freezing, with 1-3 weeks of snow and freezing temperatures) so I am not concerned about winter survival, but summers are cool and I'm not sure there is enough heat to reliably ripen the fruit. The summers here are long, dry, and sunny, but daytime temperatures are often only about 20-25 C (about 70 F) with maybe a week getting up closer to 30 C (about 80 F).
I know that at least one fruit aficionado on Vancouver Island has them successfully fruiting in his backyard garden (Bob Duncan of Fruit Trees and More) but he has them espaliered against a south-facing wall in an intensive fruit tree situation. I am hoping to produce fruit with paw paws planted in the understory under sweet chestnuts, similar to the mixed chestnut and paw paw setup that they are using at Red Fern Farm in Iowa. However, I am concerned that the shading effect of the chestnuts might reduce the heat units to the paw paws even more. In their native habitat they do well in shade, but it is a heck of a lot warmer in summer there. Do they need a minimum temperature to ripen, or a certain cumulative number of heat units?
(2) Overwintering very young seedlings. I bought seeds from England's Orchard in Kentucky last spring and asked for the shortest-season seeds they had. So far I have about a dozen that have germinated and are growing outside in pots. They are pretty small, only a few inches tall and with about 4-6 leaves. I am not sure whether I should leave them out in pots for the winter, perhaps in my unheated 'greenhouse' (it's one of those semi-opaque garage shelters that I use for tomatoes and other plants that need more heat or extended season), versus bringing them into a cool room in the house. I wonder if the latter would be safer, and maybe even allow them to grow a bit more over the winter. So far they have not dropped any leaves for the winter and it is about 7-10 C out there (45-50 F).
(3) Seed germination. More than half of the seeds I planted this past spring/early summer did not germinate this year. I'm guessing maybe a 20% germination rate? They were stratified by the grower so in theory should have been ready to sprout when I got them. Someone at the NNGA/NAFEX meeting suggested that they might need warmer germination temperatures than what I had here (I had them in the warmest microclimate available outside, but see note above about summer temperatures). Should I leave the unsprouted pots outside overwinter for another winter of stratification in hopes of some sprouting next year, or if they have not already sprouted are they basically done? I don't think they dried out at any time, not sure what the normal germination rate might be or how long the seeds might last following planting. Another option would be to bring them into the warmest spot in the house, which would be near the wood stove, in hopes of getting enough heat for a successful late germination of the non-starters.
Thanks in advice for any insights or suggestions. - Andrea
Bryan de Valdivia wrote:I'm in mid-Missouri, and just got 4 seedlings from Forrest Keeling, but I'm not sure where to plant them. The soil here is heavy clay, and I've been told the seedlings like well-drained soil + shade when young but full sun when mature for better fruiting. Problem is, if I plant them in a draw where I've got some standing trees and more organic matter they will be in shade their whole life from the hickories and oaks, but if I plant them on higher ground they will have heavier clay soil, though I can then shade cloth them for some protection from the full sun.
Where would be best? That is, what's more important, and are my sources correct on their needs? If I place them under shade cloth, what percentage should I use?
Thanks Michael! Perfect timing on your book :)
T.J. Stewart wrote:I would like to buy a few Paw Paws. I don't have a lot of space to devote to them, so I want them to be as sweet as possible (I don't like tart fruit) and good tasting. What's the recommendation?