Brad Hengen

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since May 29, 2012
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Recent posts by Brad Hengen

Methyl alcohol usually dissolves glues, like labels and tape residue.
6 months ago
Worried about wax melting???

Try a WAXLESS SEAL!

Now you can heat your bowl with pex run very close to the base.
the only worry I would have is water evaporating faster, and running dry if you are not home for awhile.  

Perhaps a shutoff at the toilet area for when you are away?
11 months ago

Len Ovens wrote:

Brad Hengen wrote:I have seen barrels used over a barrel stove to steal more heat before it leaves through the flue.



not really the same thing as the ones I have seen exit higher than entrance and of course there is no mass.


I wonder, if a barrel could be adapted onto the flue exit from a standard wood stove, to act as a bell/strat chamber?
Something like Peterburg's three barrel bell, but using a standard UL approved stove vs an unapproved batch rocket heater.



There are two difficulties here. The first is that the flue and how it is run is a part of the "UL approved" part. Certainly the permit inspector
will expect it so. Secondly, without mass, the tin stove will get run at an idle because it will be "too hot". The bell will only make this worse
if it has no mass around it... that is if it is only made out of a barrel.


a bypass could be built in for easy lighting, then close it for the heat cycle.

if a large amount of mass was added to this, a small stove burned HOT could be used to cheat the local bylaws and such.



If you used the permit process either you would install as per stove manual and modify after inspection rendering it no longer inspected or
you install lots of mass and end up with a masonry heater which has different rules and probably gets rejected and you remove it.

Better to get a professionally installed masonry heater with bells and or benches that will pass inspection. A proper steel wood stove
will cost as much as $5000 installed properly and a properly installed masonry heater can be as low as $10000 depending on the available foundation.
Oh ya, foundation. Mass requires a foundation to carry the load. This is not that expensive if it is designed into the original foundation or even fitted
later if access is easy. It could be expensive if your floor falls through. Part of the reason for getting a permit is to get a mortgage... mortgage requires
insurance. If you ever use that insurance with a modified wood burning appliance the insurance is void.

So in my opinion, you either do the whole thing non-permitted or you make sure your inspector is happy with what you are doing. If you are able to do
something in a non-permitted context, a rocket stove or masonry heater from the ground up just makes more sense. A masonry heater can be made with
the same number of fire bricks as the rocket mass heater with the rest being clay or home made adobe. So the price if permits are out of the picture is similar
for both. I would suggest the skill level is not that different either.

I have no opinion on which is better between RMH and masonry heater, but Frankenstein heater... not unless you have more skill than average and just like to tinker.



I don't think you understood what I meant.

I mean modding a barrel to act like a bell/strat chamber. have it sit above the small stove, tightly surround the small stove with material for a heat sink, and support the barrel.
you'd still have a UL listed stove, unmodified.  
all you doing is really modding the flue with the strat chamber.

As long as the barrel system is sealed, and meets the distance requirements for single walled flue, it would pass inspection.

and with a small stove, you could run it HOT to get heat from the barrel, and to warm the mass around the stove to radiate.

For $10000, I could install a complete GeoThermal system and still save money, then use a Valley Comfort stove as an aux heater when needed.

11 months ago
Just a couple thoughts:

is your chimney insulated?  Insulated inside the garage, and the outside portion?  If not, it may be cooling too much and slowing draft

can you remove the 90* bends and use 45*s instead?



11 months ago
any fireplace store, or stove repair shop should be able to source it
1 year ago

thomas rubino wrote:Not needed to slope at all . Hot air rises.



I don't think it is not needed due to hot air rising but the forced draft caused by the bell.

if you didn't have this, you'd NEED to have some slope.
1 year ago
I have seen barrels used over a barrel stove to steal more heat before it leaves through the flue.

I wonder, if a barrel could be adapted onto the flue exit from a standard wood stove, to act as a bell/strat chamber?
Something like Peterburg's three barrel bell, but using a standard UL approved stove vs an unapproved batch rocket heater.

a bypass could be built in for easy lighting, then close it for the heat cycle.

if a large amount of mass was added to this, a small stove burned HOT could be used to cheat the local bylaws and such.
1 year ago

Bruce Woodford wrote:

Brad Hengen wrote:Hey Bruce, are you the "Bruce" from JTF that improved upon Mother's waste oil heater?


just curious.



Hi Brad, Yes, I'm the culprit! That was a few years back now! But I don't recall what JTF stands for.  I've been intrigued with fire and fireburning appliances since I was a kid so when I heard of RMH's a couple of years ago, it really got me going.



JTF = Journey To Forever

That's where I first read about your modification
1 year ago
it is commonly held that NOTHING in our history has brought as many people out of poverty world wide, as cheap energy.

now, that encompasses all forms.


as for waste, in Northern Sask, there is a mine that is so hot, all mining is done remotely.  
I suggest it is the perfect place for a repository for the most radioactive waste.
The Athabasca Basin is DESIGNED by Nature to hold uranium!   May as well use it for what nature intended, Right?

1 year ago