Hi, Big Al. Not having coppiced the trees yet, I am still confident that it works, having coppiced other plants for years. My ash trees are very mature, some more than 50 feet in height, but I'm willing to top them off to obtain the wood and prevent the trees closest to the house from falling on it. The one secondary reaction may be the survival of the pest over winter, but once you start sawing the trunk into manageable sections, you should be able to identify the areas where they are located. The trees are most affected where the larvae reside. Your arborist will be able to identify the entry point by the familiar D shape. If you choose to harvest for logs, then you will need to go over the trees with a fine tooth comb in order to control their development not only in your landscape, but your neighbor's also.
Each year I treat, hundreds of mature borers are forced to evacuate from the trees and are all over the garden, but are not a threat, since they are in the process of dying from the chemical treatment, administered in early spring when the sap starts to rise. They are tiny borers, about 1/8 - 1/4 inch. You probably see them every spring if the EAB is a problem in your area, but they do not look threatening. The treatments have saved the trees, but like many permies, using the chemical is problematic. And, of course, the trees must be treated annually since our state governments have not acted judiciously in introducing the wasp that is a natural enemy of the EAB. EAB further underlines why monoculture in the landscape breeds problems that polyculture, even in an orchard, can help to abate.