C. Letellier

pollinator
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since Nov 08, 2013
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Recent posts by C. Letellier

M Ljin wrote:I don’t think it is possible to tell. A thread is a chronological list of posts. Do you mean whether you responded to a thread?

You might be able to engine-search something like “(thread name) AND (your name) site:permies.com”

Or ctrl+F or whatever you use—on the thread, or on your own post list.



The whether I responded on a particular thread.

It might take a bit of extra coding.  When a post is opened if it took my login info and simply searched the whole post thread for my name and put a check or an asterisk at in the main header to indicate I had posted on that thread and should look closer.  Searching small lists is something the computer does really well and even the big posts like the main hugelkulture thread is still a small list for a computer to search.  Then worst case it would be on me to search stuff.  But it would be nice to know I needed to search.  I probably look at 3 to 10 new threads each time I visit.  Doing a search on everyone would reduce the number I could look at

For example I hit the degrowth post from a year ago, a few days ago.  I was scrolling down to respond when I found my response on the thread.  Interestingly my post from a year ago and what I intended to write would have been nearly identical.  The link to the particular website is in my main computer book marks because I use it a few times a year so pulling it out would have been easy.  Now there were 2 comments would have added.  One was a response to someones question who posted after me and one I didn't bother to find and was a discussion of how and why population growth is happening.(it isn't what most people think)  I may still get the second one posted but I didn't find it in a quick youtube search and I lost its bookmark in a computer crash a year ago.
Having been here for a long time I find that I forget what posts I have responded to.   So at the top of a post can we get a symbol that says the post has been responded to.  Maybe with a number following showing the number of responses if it is greater than 1.  Also if the symbol clicked on takes me to my first response in that post.  Having been here 12+ years it is very easy to forget.
PS you are showing your well in and hot out backwards.  Cold to the bottom and hot out of the top.  Add a stratifier if needed so you don't mix them.
3 days ago
Question.  Do you actually need the tank over the stove barrel?  The bottom can't be insulated so you will have radiative heat out the bottom.  Yes it is into a heat bell so maybe not a risk?  Its size will limit storage capacity.  Guessing you will want more storage.  As you stated it will make getting to the heat riser for maintenance difficult.  Material to build the barrel will be somewhat difficult and expensive if done so it doesn't corrode.  ideally would like a much smaller amount of stainless or other material exposed to the fire.

Alternate answer.  There are various youtube videos showing the water "tank" aka wood box, being made with 2X material, plywood, lined with insulation and then that lined with an EDPM which is rates to 200 degrees max working temperature.  Personally since I am a bit over 4000 feet in elevation the boiling point of water is worst case 203 degrees.  So I couldn't ever get much over the 200.  And if my water tank is big enough even getting it close would give time for the fire to burn out.

So my thinking is to build the barrel instead.  Use say 1 1/4" black schedule 40and wind it into a spiral of barrel diameter or slightly larger.  like a giant spring.  Say 3 or 4 full wraps.  Spiral into that say 1/8 inch flat material run thru a slip roll and weld the 2 together into a solid barrel.  The squish boom discussions sound like that size pipe is big enough to keep it from all flashing to steam at once and into a non pressurized system it should be safe anyway.  Now the question it corrosion protection.  Treat this as sacrificial?  Or can the inside of the pipe be cleaned and electoplated in copper or nickel.  Plating inside a pipe would be difficult but what if a piece of monofiliment was blown thru to pull a centering brush with the power wire.  It would be a slow operation.  One other alternate would be an active corrosion prevention system with a sacrificial anode elsewhere in the tank.  Final option here is maybe glass line the pipe.  Still researching this part so no solid guesses as to desired answer here.  Final high price alternative would be the 30 to 40 feet of stainless pipe.

So lets start at the "tank" and work thru the system.  Inside the tank an insulated snorkel up to say 2/3 of the height of the tank and out thru a bulkhead fitting.  From there into Tee with the main part aimed down and an air break aimed up so the whole tank will NOT drain if a leak happens somewhere other than the tank itself.  Take the line down to the bottom of the spiral.  Question in the thinking here is do I want to do a Tesla valve where it goes into the spiral so there is even less chance of it back feeding?  Head pressure backward vs forwards and cold vs hot water should prevent it but a Tesla valve would give added protection.  

Then on the outlet of the spiral a heat riser pipe going as straight up as possible.  (short runner pipe on an angle allowed if needed)  The outlet should go a couple of inches above the water level for the system.  Now want to drop this out and into what amounts to a giant funnel open to the air but with a steam condenser built into the lid.  Condenser borrow from alcohol distillation tricks.  Small amounts of steam generated should return it back to the water.  Now at the bottom of the vertical pipe want something to direct any bubbles into the middle of the pipe so it works like an air lift pump running on steam/a bit of air when needed.  Most of the time the expansion of the water combined with convection should lift the water above the water line so it is flowing into open air and thus a non pressurized system.  Now some large glass bottles above this water line neck down should provide a reset-able refill for the system with easily visible site glass.

From this insulated funnel into piping looking like an ES(program won't let me do just the character) laid on its side.  It is all inside insulation.  This creates a trap to seal the tank.  Only time the water level gets high for the water to return to the tank.  A air vent on the high of the up curve of the pipe, of the tank will let its volume change up and down while preventing it from siphoning the trap completely empty. (air vent back into the top of the funnel

Now for the solar end my thinking has been looking at drain back systems which means I would need a pump.  But done correctly I can get rid of the complexities of heat exchangers and antifreeze.  And if I can do it with PEX tubing, greatly reduced freeze risk if something fails plus reduced cost.  And low wattage DC magnetic drive pumps are readily available.  No seals to fail on the pump and with some in the 30 watt range not really a big solar panel to drive and only needed when the sun shines anyway.

Third component of the thinking is for summer months to include 2 more pumped loops.  One to ground for final cooling inside going to hydronic ceiling system inside  And one to ceiling hydronic system so the hot air inside the house is doing the preheat on the tank.
3 days ago

Suzy Bear wrote:Why do windows need to be cleaned at all?



For my house at least because the house is mostly/fully heated by passive and active solar and I can lose as much as a third of the heat to just messy windows.  It is a comfort issue.  It is possible to wash half a window and feel the difference on my face just moving side to side in the sun.
1 week ago

Eino Kenttä wrote:

One of the things that I always wonder when people talk about economic growth is precisely that: what's the point? If the economy could somehow be made to keep growing indefinitely, there would logically come a time when everyone spends 100% of their time simultaneously both producing and consuming goods and services, preferably as many as possible at the same time, and never doing anything that doesn't contribute to the growth of GDP. But who'd want an existence like that? Wouldn't it be extremely stressful, every time it seems like your needs and wants might be fulfilled, to have to come up with some new ones? Yes, I think it would.

Of course, it could be that I'm missing something, but I can just not see the point of pushing that line in that diagram upwards for ever. Even if it was somehow physically possible.



The point you are missing is productivity.  People producing at least some types of goods are showing such huge increases in their productivity that the average number of hours people need to work actually decreases. The video I posted up above some time back makes the point one way.  In like 1800 a certain amount of work would buy buy 1 lb of sugar and now the same work would buy something like 250 pounds of sugar.(go watch the video for the real numbers)

Or lets take an example. 50 years ago my parents chopped corn for silage for roughly 6 weeks.  We had 7 operators to do it. (chopper driver, pile packer and 5 trucks) A guy down the road had a contractor in and chopped silage this year.  His pile was 10X to 20X bigger than my parents pile ever was.  He did it in less than 5 days total with 6 operators.(chopper driver, 2 pile packers steady with one of the truck drivers stopping to pack with a 3rd tractor at times when they got behind, and 3 trucks).  Back then we started harvest before the crop was finished growing and kept harvesting well after the optimal point on the other end.  Our corn was 6 to 8 feet high.  Modern silage corn the is 12 to 16 feet tall.  Modern crop most of it is harvested while it is in its prime.  Bigger silage piles mean less waste because the skin of the pile increases as the square of dimension but volume increases as the cube.  In nearly every way things have improved.  The major difference is no one farm can afford the equipment and so must contract it out.

As for ever increasing wants on the other end, won't those come naturally?  And they might not be a complicated as you think.  They might come in the form of durability, or self heating home, or redundancy or comfort.  Cell phones with internet access is one that is fairly universally desired that didn't exist 50 years ago to even want.  For example on my immediate wants list is an infrared camera for diagnostics.  The neat addition to it would be built into a cell phone which is an available technology that is coming down in price.  It should make me both more productive and capable of fixing more things.  Another on my wants lists is vacuum insulated windows.  Taking window glass from a bit over R 3 to potentially R 13 or even R 20.  Would bring the house closer to self heating and cooling and reduce needs.  Even if it is not your immediate want it could be society's want.  But the societal list might include things like photo-chromic and thermal-chromic pavement for area heat control. (exists but not cost effectively yet)  Another might be long buckey molecules to make buckey cables with, for making space elevator cables.  This one is still wishful thinking but would be one of the first major steps involved in importing major metals from space so we don't have to do the environmental damage of mining them here.  More metals, more corrosion resistant metals at cheaper prices would result in greater durability and potentially greater cost effectiveness economy wide.
I have wanted to play with it for building retaining walls.  But actually having done it not yet.  My test brick has done 4 years out in the weather and still looks good but that is all the farther I have gone.

As for panels no but large bricks there is a you tube video on a machine that makes large cob bricks that interlock sort of like Legos  From the video they are roughly 1 foot x 1 foot x 2 feet.  The argument for them was how hard they were pressed together supposedly making then very durable
1 week ago
PS a possible link for fans

fan
1 week ago
Links to my systems similar.  The house itself is passive solar.  The add on is an active thermal air collector and to improve heat transfer there is a third part for interior recirculation of the air.

solar thermal collector panel

interior recirculation system.

From mine guessing in the late day you hit a hot stall condition where it is pulling almost no air from the basement.  It was why I added fans to the collector and later added the interior circulation system.  From the experience here and from the early Ceres greenhouse information you ideally would want to augment with fans to do at least 10 air changes an hour with the basement.(probably more)  Got lucky with the first set of fans and got 6 super quiet, super efficient fans for $5 each.(replacing model year or model decade on sale at a surplus outfit)  My interior fans were $6 each but suck.  20 dB louder moving twice as much air but using 4X the power to do it.  If I needed to be around it when the fans were running I would definitely invest in the good ones.  I went with 12V DC fans under the theory that put me in a good position to take them PV solar.  The Sunon 120mm vapo bearing with 44 dB have been amazing for quiet and efficiency.  For now I am running all the fans off a salvaged ATX style computer power supply.  Eventually it will run the Aurdino control system for everything also.

A duct down close to the floor so you pull cold air from as low as possible will also likely be beneficial.  The duct for my collector is a windshield box from an auto body place.  Eventually I want to do it in plywood but the box has worked so well that so far it is still unchanged.  Originally I was hanging with nails and thumbtacks.  They tore, pulled out and generally were a pain.  Then I smartened up and glued some scraps of wood to the cardboard with downward holes thru the wood big enough for the head of the screws(nails would work too) to pass thru easily.  Put the screws in on an angle so the mounts fall tight to the wall.  By spreading the load the cardboard has quit tearing and the box simply lifts off the mounting screws when I need to move it.  The recirculation duct is plywood on the permanent parts and the part that will eventually be in the battery cabinet is more scrap cardboard for now.

Final suggest addition is anti back draft systems.  It makes a major difference in the collector on shut down.  It is a simple 1 inch layer of foam bead board standing just off vertical.  It opens under convection. (although likely constricting flow)   And with the fan on blows fully open easily
1 week ago
The only thing they make money on is typically Aluminum cans.  Rest is expensive and getting more difficult to have done as sorting centers outside the US are shutting down.  Plus the actual value in most cases is more energy intensive than making new.  So in many cases it is a net loss and even environmentalists are coming to recognize the facts.

Guessing AI and automation my change that into the future but for now it is getting harder.
1 week ago