C. Letellier

Personally I like the low and slow method of cooking the meat.  The crock pot gets too hot.  Use 19 quart a roaster with water bath, meat bagged in a roaster bag and then cook with the water bath in the 180 to 190 degree range.  It never boils.  Cook time is typically 18 to 24 hours.  Seasonings and about 3 cups of pineapple juice go in the bag with the meat with no added water.  If done right the meat is so tender you can't cut it cross grain as it falls apart if you try.  Shredded ham is another fun version here.

Be aware that it is mostly cleaning only and should not be diluted and used for canning because in some cases it includes trace metals from its production process making it not safe as a canning aid is what the canning information has been saying.

r ranson wrote:

Devon Viola wrote:The thumbnail you started with is the best one!

Definitely.

I worried it was too busy as I was sketching in pen and instead of crossing things out, I just added new ideas on top.  
For example, it was just one sheep, I just kept putting it in different spots so now it looks like many sheeps.  


I'm punishing myself right now for not doing a very important time sensitive task and I'm not allowed to draw or paint again until I finish it.  
Once that's done, I'll play with some more ideas and see if I'm getting better or further away from the goal.



thinking about this some more, I am starting to understand why I'm struggling with composition so much.  

In photography and filming, it's about exclusion.  I remove all the unwanted pieces of reality and keep only the perfect reality inside the frame.

With art, it's about adding.  Creating stuff to go inside the frame.  That's a lot harder for my brain to understand.  

Sketching in Pen helps teach additive as you have to start in your very foreground and work back.  Unlike painting where you start with the background and work to the front.

The little bit of greenish on the tip in the last picture would cause me to say shoot.  Does it matter?  Plant it roughly horizontally and it will find its way either way.

Justin Hadden wrote:

C. Letellier wrote:Actually time is taken into account 2 ways.  The thermal mass acts as a battery giving the heat long term to the home.  Height of the heat riser generating a sufficient burn time.  And it isn't really an oxygen rich flame.  The physical structure acts to limit it to just barely oxygen rich flame.  Look at the NOx data.  On oxygen rich flame generates lots of NOx.  A RMH running properly produces very little.

You can't make the thermal mass the T for time. We're talking about combustion only. The thermal mass has nothing to do with the combustion process, only the heat storage process. Granted the heat riser does add time, but it also adds height and takes up space in the home. The thing i was trying to get to was something that could be used by people that can't have an rmh in their home. If you cant have a big thermal mass in your home, than the only other option is slow the burn even more so that it can have more time to radiate into the room before exiting the flue.

By design an rocket uses wide open air, obviously you can't choke this off to try and slow it down otherwise we end up with a smoky and dirty burn. What about somehow controlling the fuel supply? Just as a diesel engine has wide open air at all times by design, it controls its fuel quantity instead to throttle things. What if somehow we could expose less fuel to our wide open air in order to have a slower yet still complete burn, by not throttling our air we would always have ample supply to complete combustion, no idea how it would be done, just thinking out loud.

First off we need to talk terminology.  RMH is rocket MASS heater.  You are talking rocket stove heater which is a completely different design.   Suggest researching Rocket stoves.  There is a bunch of good info here on permies and a lot of really good info on the donkey boards.  Donkey Boards  as well as many other places.  Look at the right type of design for what you want to accomplish

Second in a pure form you are right that only the flame front counts in the time and thus the combustion.  But the comparison to the diesel engine is unfair because you are looking for different output goals.  The engine you don't care about the heat gain efficiency.  But the stove if you pull more air thru without as much burn you are actually quenching your heat and reducing your delta Temp which reduces efficiency.  The amount of heat you can extract is dependent on that delta Temp.  More heated air up the chimney is heat loss because you paid in fuel to heat that air.  Just guessing but will bet for your goals a lot of feet of stove pipe radiating into the house will be more effective than a tesla valve.  The valve's goal is better flow one way than the other.   You don't need that much complication.  You want to prolong the heats time in the pipe.  That is longer pipe, heat bell etc.  The valve running backwards gets you some of that at the cost of a lot of drag.  Running forward it would just be a long pipe.  The key point you miss is that a true rocket mass heater is totally dependent for its efficiency on that delta Temp. and its ability to max that out is dependent on the heat stored in the mass so in a less pure form of thought that time does count in the equation.  It still doesn't reach what a good condensing gas stove does but it comes close for that delta Temp.

Then an aside.  My crazy dream rocket mass heater does include a tesla valve but it is on the water part of the set up to aid in being sure the water flow only ever goes one way for a convection loop.  I want to build the barrel with a large water tube spiral around it 3 or 4 times as part of the wall of the barrel.(not just wrapped around the barrel but actually part of the wall of the barrel.)  Probably 1 1/2 inch or 2 inch pipe to have enough water to avoid squish boom with it going into a non pressurized tank.  Bring the colder side of the water in thru a forward tesla valve and then into the spiral pipe up the barrel with a fair long riser pipe going up.  If it produces steam bubbles in the spiral route them to the middle of the riser pipe to act as an air lift pump.  If it ever gets hot enough to really percolate the valve would be to keep it from trying to ever back flow.  Between the valve and head pressure the flow should only ever be one way.  Put this on a huge tank of water heavily insulated with a fair amount of vertical height for stratification.  In winter it would help heat household water while heating the house.(most of the heat from solar)  In summer activate a mass bypass valve in the chimney so the mass isn't heated so the stove can be cooked on.  Wrap the barrel in a series of high temp insulating panels in summer so it doesn't  heat the house either with the hope that the water will cool enough to maintain draw with the drag of the mass part of the chimney not in the circuit.(efficiency will suck but it should still draw just like any stove and since the only goal is cooking efficiency this time of year is of less concern)  Yes we all have our crazy RMH thinking.  This is one of two of mine.

T Simpson wrote:I've mentioned using Tesla valves in the system to slow exhaust in another post but the consensus was that may restrict air pressure too much; to my knowledge, nobody has actually tried it yet.

Maybe I'll give it a go, I'll be visiting Wheaton Labs this October.

How is a Tesla valve going to add value??  If you slow the gas down you limit pipe length which reduces surface area which reduces the amount of mass that can be heated.

Actually time is taken into account 2 ways.  The thermal mass acts as a battery giving the heat long term to the home.  Height of the heat riser generating a sufficient burn time.  And it isn't really an oxygen rich flame.  The physical structure acts to limit it to just barely oxygen rich flame.  Look at the NOx data.  On oxygen rich flame generates lots of NOx.  A RMH running properly produces very little.

Cut your detail on the sheep.  You are trying too hard.  Work on easy outlines for the sheep and skip the detail a bit.

I don't do animals well but here is some of my other.  Haven't done any in many years.

ink drawings

Historically we always used big willow sticks(1 1/2 inch to 2 inch size)  Occasionally small lodge pole pine same size.  Usually left the bark on and it wore away over time.

We had a run of 1 1/4" black poly from the house to the cistern running about 70 feet.  Used as a conduit for 1" cross linked poly when we put the city water in instead because the poly line wasn't heavy enough for the city water pressure as it had only been suction from the cistern.  Worked fine.  Really close fit and took lubrication to pull it thru.  Big thing is it saved digging near the house.  Since the sidewalk was right over where the water line came in it saved more work too.  I would suggest bigger than 1/2" PEX if possible.  We put a rag on a rope and blew the rope thru with compressed air.  Then we built a pointed end that was screwed to the end of the inner pipe to hang onto it and pull it thru.  If they are doing bigger distances they blow the rope thru, pull a steel cable thru so they can pull harder.