Bryant RedHawk wrote:If you are tying things like benches to the exterior walls, then yes I would add wire to tie the two together.
Lime plaster can be water durable but usually it is not "direct hit" situated as a roof will be.
I have used lime plaster but only for exterior walls that had a 4 foot overhang protecting them.
I have repaired Lime plaster walls that were eroded from a lot of "splash up" from the wall not having a tall enough foundation. (this was on a cob house in New York State).
Glenn Herbert wrote:Unless you live in an extreme desert environment where rain is rare, the lime coating may still allow enough water in to build up in the cob. I don't think Cleveland qualifies as extreme desert, if that's where you live. If it ever cracks, there is a guaranteed failure point. You need to shed the water with a covering that lets air circulate between cob and top surface so the cob can stay dry.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Barbed wire comes in 1/4 mile lengths (1,320 ft.) usually.
To calculate, all you need is to measure the wall lengths then add them up, two strands per course are standard, one near the exterior and one near the interior.
Do not forget to tamp each course then lay on the two strands of barbed wire.
Using landscape type Wire staples to hold the barbed wire in place really helps, so you don't fight it when you start the new course of earth bags.
Dillon Nichols wrote:How cheap does it need to be?
When I put a roof over my WVO processing/storage stuff, I used galvanized steel sheets; not the wavey sort of corrogated, this grade: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.tough-rib-galvanized-12-ft.1000116723.html
It was a heck of a lot easier than some of the more esoteric options, and it's prime water-collection material. Plus, if I don't need this shed down the line, I can take it apart and reuse the bits, or someone else can.
It was less than a dollar per square foot, retail, in Canada. I assume in the states one could do better on pricing, and better again if you can find someone with a contractors discount to use. Yes, you need gasketed fasteners, but still... Less than the improvised flashing example, and while I think it's more for the material than for an EPDM type roll roof, it doesn't appear to be much more, and you need less support as you aren't piling heaving earth atop it. In my case purlins were plenty to support it, major time/weight/$ savings vs something needing plywood or planks below it.
As far as linseed oil vs lime plaster, lime plaster is heavy duty, with time you're basically turning the top layer of the wall to stone... But lime is not real fun to work with. So, whether or not you need it would be dependent on climate, and overhangs, and whether you've got a nice tall foundation or are cladding the lower portion of the walls in something... and of course on how you feel about doing it the hard way now to hopefully lower maintenance later on...
Don't skimp on the overhangs!