Mike Cantrell wrote:Split your own shakes with a froe. That's a good, free, roof. All you need is tools, fasteners, and lots and lots and lots of skilled labor. (But after the first ten or twenty hours, i bet you'll be pretty skilled yourself.) These are a fire hazard.
Fire some clay tiles. Same as above- free, but takes numerous hours. Plus, they're heavy, and your roof needs to be stronger than average to hold them.
Roll roofing. This isn't free, but it's much cheaper than shingles. It goes on quick and easy. It lasts ten years of you're lucky. It's made out of petroleum. It looks cheap.
Roofing is a tough question.
Roll roofing sounds interesting. Any special kind?
Like a roll of flashing perhaps?
We thought about cleaning off and using the aluminum siding from a mobile home we can tear down but didn't know if that would be safe enough. The siding is really old and filthy. Could we clean, disinfect and maybe treat it with something and make it safe?
Or bamboo maybe?
This, I think, has been done.Or a ferrocement roof perhaps?
Felicia Daniels wrote:What are some cheap/free roofing materials we could look at getting? We're fixing to start building an earthbag house and we'll have about 1420 sq ft of space to cover. Thanks! Also we live in Alabama.
Mike Cantrell wrote:
Roll roofing sounds interesting. Any special kind?
I meant like this, for example.
Like a roll of flashing perhaps?
There are a couple of types of metal roofing, and one style is lapped metal shingles (either aluminum or steel). Metal roofs are great, but they definitely aren't cheap.
Doing the math very roughly for what it would cost to build a makeshift roof out of aluminum flashing, here's what I come up with.
Assuming a 6/12 pitch, you'll have (1420*1.118=1587.56, round up to 1600 to include eaves) sq ft of roof surface.
Flashing: 8.33 sq ft for $10.47, or $1.26 per sq ft.
I'd lap the flashing rows approximately 50%, or 5", so you'll need 3,200 sq ft of material.
That's $4,032 of flashing.
I could probably stop there. This isn't a cheap approach.
But there's a little more. Remember that you shouldn't use steel nails on aluminum because of galvanic corrosion; you need aluminum nails, which cost more. Nailing down little strips also takes lots more nails.
(Two slopes, each 20'x40' means 48 5" courses each. Each course gets, say, a nail every 6" over its 40' length, that's 7,680 nails. At $5.76 per 414 nails, that's another $106.)
Aaaaand... probably another couple hundred for underlayment.
We thought about cleaning off and using the aluminum siding from a mobile home we can tear down but didn't know if that would be safe enough. The siding is really old and filthy. Could we clean, disinfect and maybe treat it with something and make it safe?
The way aluminum siding is bent, it's designed to shed most of the water off, vertically. Some water is allowed to get behind it, and if you look at the bottom edge, you'll see it even has weep holes to let that water back out again. I can't picture an easy way to reuse it on a roof. Maybe if you somehow chopped it into pieces and used them as aluminum shingles?
Or bamboo maybe?
Is it one of the huge species? Like 6" diameter? Maybe you could cut barrel tiles out of them?
This, I think, has been done.Or a ferrocement roof perhaps?
Has it been done in a fairly wet place like Alabama? I don't know.
Would I live under one myself? Maybe if it were built by someone who had done five or ten other structures first.
Felicia Daniels wrote:
Thanks for all your help! Roll roofing might end up being what we have to go with. And it's safe to use for all our water needs including drinking?
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Felicia Daniels wrote:Thank y'all! We'd like it to be cheap and good for our 1 & 2. I just looked at my design again and realized that I was going about the square footage wrong. We do need about 1420 total but only 500 to catch our water. The rest of the roofs could be anything as long as it isn't gonna look awful and will be durable. And hopefully as recycled as possible. So for the rain roof we had thought about a green roof but we were worried about the water having to go through the soil and all before reaching the downspout and going into the barrels. Is that safe or would we have to modify the green roof some to make it safe? And given that we only have about 500 of rain roof to do now, what would be the cheapest best option for our ebag house? Like I said we will be applying cob and then covering it with a lome plaster or linseed oil. Which would be better?
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Dillon Nichols wrote:How cheap does it need to be?
When I put a roof over my WVO processing/storage stuff, I used galvanized steel sheets; not the wavey sort of corrogated, this grade: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.tough-rib-galvanized-12-ft.1000116723.html
It was a heck of a lot easier than some of the more esoteric options, and it's prime water-collection material. Plus, if I don't need this shed down the line, I can take it apart and reuse the bits, or someone else can.
It was less than a dollar per square foot, retail, in Canada. I assume in the states one could do better on pricing, and better again if you can find someone with a contractors discount to use. Yes, you need gasketed fasteners, but still... Less than the improvised flashing example, and while I think it's more for the material than for an EPDM type roll roof, it doesn't appear to be much more, and you need less support as you aren't piling heaving earth atop it. In my case purlins were plenty to support it, major time/weight/$ savings vs something needing plywood or planks below it.
As far as linseed oil vs lime plaster, lime plaster is heavy duty, with time you're basically turning the top layer of the wall to stone... But lime is not real fun to work with. So, whether or not you need it would be dependent on climate, and overhangs, and whether you've got a nice tall foundation or are cladding the lower portion of the walls in something... and of course on how you feel about doing it the hard way now to hopefully lower maintenance later on...
Don't skimp on the overhangs!
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