You'll see alot of hype from lime manufactures that claim they can handle big loads I think these natural builders fell prey too, and/or are trying to mark up and sell out here on permies, trying to sell European raw material based limes in the US like here: http://www.limes.us/
An affordable US manufactured Type S lime mortar with a liquid water shedding surface sealer siloxane/silane (natural silicone) 100% + breathable would work great here, or, a magnesium phosphate (POS) stucco you talk to Premier about.....It will dry fast needs no wet curing, you have to be careful of the salt content leaching and the drying speeds. Limes have the same leaching/cracking issues, so does portland cement, but the right ad mixes can mitigate. The difference is the structural and vapor chemical properties of well designed mags are 2-3 times that of lime and/or portland cements, for the same or less CO2 kiln temps as lime ~ 1700 F.
Glenn Herbert wrote:Unless you live in an extreme desert environment where rain is rare, the lime coating may still allow enough water in to build up in the cob. I don't think Cleveland qualifies as extreme desert, if that's where you live. If it ever cracks, there is a guaranteed failure point. You need to shed the water with a covering that lets air circulate between cob and top surface so the cob can stay dry.
What if we just do cob on the inside of house and the outside is lime plaster over the earthbags? Maybe with a coat of linseed oil over it? Would that protect it more? We've decided to build a stand alone roof over the courtyard we're going to build with fiberglass as the roofing and then leave the domes hatless like how I mentioned above if you think that would work. We get about 53" of rain each year.
No one can make you feel inferior without your consent - Eleanor Roosevelt. tiny ad:
Video of all the PDC and ATC (~177 hours) - HD instant viewhttps://permies.com/wiki/65386/paul-wheaton/digital-market/Video-PDC-ATC-hours-HD