Preparing to build my first cabin

John F Dean wrote:I built a small cabin in MN many years ago.   I would suggest the design include plans for expansion.  I took into account expected snows and build the cabin a little higher off the ground to account for a heavier snows.

I suspect the 10 x 12 may have been to stay below the minimum code applicable size. If you have researched your area and know that 12 x 12 will be safe, do that. Here in upstate New York the maximum unpermitted size is 100 square feet, so I built an 8 x 12 shed to start with, sitting right next to the door of my little travel trailer.

If you have a deck attached to your cabin, that might count as square footage depending on your local code and inspector. How hilly is the region you are looking at, and how likely is it that you could have a deck partially at ground level by your door?

Kevin David wrote:I’m still searching for land, but I want to be prepared to build a small cabin(small enough to avoid residential code) which I will live in while building a house to code. This will be the first structure I’ve ever built, so I want to keep it as simple as possible. I really like this cabin bushradical (Dave Whipple) built. And by the way, he lives roughly in the same region of Michigan I’m looking for land.

There are 4 parts to this series. He really shows you how to do just about everything, every step of the way. There are a few modifications I’d like to make, and I’m hoping some of you can help me out here:

1) This cabin is 10x12. Why do I see so many small structures in 10x12? Wouldn’t it be easier to go with 12x12? If there is no reason not to, I’d prefer to go with 12x12.

2) He uses rough cut lumber from the Amish, true to size. As long I use all conventional dimensional lumber, everything should fit together just the same, right?

3) He uses some camp stove. I think I’d like a better wood stove. So any recommendations would be appreciated.

I had considered getting a liberator and then transferring it to the house when completed to meet code easier, but from what little I understand about rocket stoves I believe the liberator might be overkill in this tiny cabin. I would not add mass anyway. Also, I believe there would need to be additional safety measures due to the high temperatures which would then add weight to the cabin as well…no?

4) This one isn’t really a question, just some info I think I should add. I’d like to add a little deck to it. If the cabin is 12x12(or 10x12), then I could have a 4ft deck and still be under 200 sq ft.

And for anyone who is thinking “just make the whole indoor space 12x16, you’ll need the space”, I hear you. I plan on building a 12x16 shed after the cabin is done. I just really, really like the idea of having a deck. I figure this house is going to take a very long time. So I want my “temporary shelter”, as the regulations call it, to be the kind of place I can enjoy living in and looking at for years.

5) another bit of info: I plan on several upgrades that will make the place more livable, and also accomplish some PEP BB’s. Like a sink that drains to a mulch pit. An indoor willow feeder as well. I’m hoping to knock out a ton of BB’s with this.

6) I wondered if the roof might be an issue with snow piling up, but he says it’s not. It’s a metal roof, small structure.

Edit: I tried embedding all 4 YouTube videos, but it didn’t work. Oh well, I’m not sure if it’s even necessary to watch any of these videos to answer the questions.

Kevin David wrote:1) This cabin is 10x12. Why do I see so many small structures in 10x12? Wouldn’t it be easier to go with 12x12? If there is no reason not to, I’d prefer to go with 12x12.

Kevin David wrote:2) He uses rough cut lumber from the Amish, true to size. As long I use all conventional dimensional lumber, everything should fit together just the same, right?

Kevin David wrote:3) He uses some camp stove. I think I’d like a better wood stove. So any recommendations would be appreciated.

Kevin David wrote:4) This one isn’t really a question, just some info I think I should add. I’d like to add a little deck to it. If the cabin is 12x12(or 10x12), then I could have a 4ft deck and still be under 200 sq ft.
And for anyone who is thinking “just make the whole indoor space 12x16, you’ll need the space”, I hear you. I plan on building a 12x16 shed after the cabin is done. I just really, really like the idea of having a deck. I figure this house is going to take a very long time. So I want my “temporary shelter”, as the regulations call it, to be the kind of place I can enjoy living in and looking at for years.

Kevin David wrote:5) another bit of info: I plan on several upgrades that will make the place more livable, and also accomplish some PEP BB’s. Like a sink that drains to a mulch pit. An indoor willow feeder as well. I’m hoping to knock out a ton of BB’s with this.

John F Dean wrote:I can see that if the deck is attached to the building where it might be counted as part of the structure.  What if the deck is freestanding and not attached?  It would seem to be a separate structure,

Jay Angler wrote:

John F Dean wrote:I can see that if the deck is attached to the building where it might be counted as part of the structure.  What if the deck is freestanding and not attached?  It would seem to be a separate structure,

It all depends on the precise wording of the codes. Where I am they specify 100 square feet (actually, the metric equivalent) and then say something about "covered area between structures will be included". In other words, if you build two completely legal 10x10 ft sheds, and then do anything "covered" that joins them, they can legally make you remove the lot.

I think Dave went with a 10 foot width because off the shelf metal roof panels typically come in 8 ft and 12 ft lengths and he was building a monoslope roof and wanted a little overhang. If you want to go wider you can lap the panels(not preferred, get longer panels fabricated, or build a gable roof. A gable roofs is not much more complicated than monoslope roof.  

Kevin David wrote:I’m still searching for land, but I want to be prepared to build a small cabin(small enough to avoid residential code) which I will live in while building a house to code. "

Many areas allow a dry cabin not hooked to water or power under 100 sqft. I designed this studio cabin several years ago for people that need a simple shelter to be used as an off grid cabin, accessory dwelling unit or rental.

Full color step by step plans in ebook or printed form are available.

BushRadical just took my plans and added 2 feet and claims it is off grid but he lives in a big grid home... just sayin'.

There is another thread I started quite a while ago on the entire holistic strategy of living in a temporary shelter for a long time..

Sandra Duggan wrote:The link you posted does not seem to be what you intended? Helpful thread overall, thank you!

Coydon Wallham wrote:

Sandra Duggan wrote:The link you posted does not seem to be what you intended? Helpful thread overall, thank you!

The links in his post weren't made by him, the permies.com software will occasionally create automatic links to key words in people's posts, it appears "thread" and "holistic" are examples of those...

Michael Qulek wrote:Do you actually KNOW that code compliance is an important issue in your immediate area?

For my own situation in California, I drafted carefully drawn plans that I took with me to the Kern County code office, with the intent of applying for a building permit.

Once I displayed my plans, and identified my location, their attitude was "Why are you bothering us with this?"!

A contractor standing in back of me pulled me aside and told me unless I was building a commercial structure, or something that was going to be rented, I basically could do whatever I wanted.

I said "OOOOKKKKK", and walked out.  Haven't bothered going back and since then I've built structures as large as 40X20'.

Sean Brown wrote:If you are using conventional lumber and play wood make sure your dimensions are on the 4 ft. Plywood is 4x8, lumber can be bought on the 2ft but why waste material. I would recommend for later expansion you design 2x12 headers on the south wall and possibly which ever side you may want to expand later. It is a lot easier to remove non load bearing studs than it is to add a header later on. Im a big fan of clear story for letting heat out and light in. Im also a big fan of porches. 3 side porches are my preference then you have an option for a screened in sleeping porch and a summer kitchen. There are also options for making removable panels to make the porches enclosed for use in the winter. Me and other carpenters spent alot of time talking over and designing small cabins in the Ozarks. Mostly relying on the tried and true vernacular architecture of the area. Many times a design that works in one region do not work in another area. Look into the vernacular architecture of your area. People in the oast knew how to build for the region better than any fancy architect now days. Experience of heating and cooling without electricity is a far better education than 5 years of college