derek dihoff

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since Mar 30, 2014
durham nc
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Recent posts by derek dihoff

thats a good idea lots less infrastructure if you nix the trap under the sink you might not need to raise the sink the overflowstack inside the toillet might be able to keep up with a low flow faucet
5 years ago
so im sure this must have been done before . if not im sharing this really easy system that has worked for years

the washing machines 3/4 horse power impeller pump can probably lift water over 2 stories. a grey water barrel is situated in the attic next to your plumbing vent stack the barrel s over flow dumps into this pipe i ran salvaged fire hose with pvc right angle barbs as not to kink you will probably need at least a 2.5 ddiameter pipe to supply the water tower from your washing machine(it moves hig volumes of water). inside the barrel i have a 50 micron screen over a 3/8 poly ethelene supply line that runs straight to the toillet as normal. the storage barrel has a 3 in sump to catch sediment
this system works well. the pros your not pooping in your drinking water your using the water twice. cons every so often i will need to do a load of laundry with bleach to nock down methane causing bacteria, every so many weeks the toillet flapper contact will need to be cleaned, the toillet water is grey
5 years ago
oil is the black gold a backer of the dollar the petro dollar, never surrender your wmo they will sell it back to you or kill others to get it there is no other readily available energy dense liquid

i burned wvo 8 or so years my last car 82 300d got t boned. and then i got out because the wvo has now become a commodity. it would be great in one sense if the oil prices stay down and drive out the biofuels industries so i could once again dumpsterdive it for free.
all of my rigs are haggered i have them moth balled with wmo (the veg side of the fuel system) the parrfins and properties of the oil resits oxidation and molds better.

had a benz with bad compression in a cyclider, burned through quite bit of wmo some of the time would burn straight wmo it would stink really bad this car had 3 coolant heat exchangers one of which was before the raidator.

there are lots of people who have diy some oil cracking fractill distilate columns for straitifieing different grades of fuel from wmo and scrap tech
5 years ago
so inside the barrel next to the spiil way of the heat riser where the flu gases downdraft i have two copper pipes with a upper and lower mini manafold that tees back to a single pipe, top pipe,to top of water heater always rising steeply, the draincock on the hot water heater is teed off and always falls slightly to the bottom of the heat exchanger bottom pipe that pops out of the cob. ( i have a slight constriction point on the bottom cold side so the heat can have a clearer choice which way to go) i use 2 guage copper grounding wire twisted around the manifold then drilled part way into the refractory bricks riser opposit sides like tongs i have them loose for thermal exspansion cycles - i wonder how well that copper is holding without liquid in it , also is breaking the mud seal on top of barrel every few weeks just pour some near by liquid maybe an old beer and re mud the seal

the creosote thing insnt so much an issue it probably helps sheild corriosion i peaked once in my main 1st cleanout because i thought it wasnt seal as good as i wanted, i did notice less buildup flakes like in the boiler systems more just surface black coating i only had a few hand fulls of looked like glossy magizine ash in there.

it seems like the rs takes a long time to get hot water hot especially starting with a cold core compared to the water jacketed boiler systems, but once its there with daily burns we usually have hot water or scalding hot water
i figure all of these fire on water sytems will fail ive only run a homemade heat echanger sodder/copper for 3 years straight on a single one and it still looked functional, hopefully the copper will pin hole first get to the cut off valve and the benefit will out weigh that muddy suck when it comes
5 years ago
a wood fired boiler would probably fit this function better l
hey yall have a 350 gal thermal secondary storage and a closed thermal siphon loop under city pressure inside the barrel of the rs.

the heat exchanger is 2 42" x3/4" hard copper pipes located next to the riser verticle it rises through the bung on the barrele with a refratory sliver and mudd gasket (this has been replced 3 times this winter, the gasket) probably becuase i keep drying wood up there
the bottom of the heat exchanger is inline with my clean out in the flu gas path the entire time.

the hot end of the thermal siphon is all copper or black steel fittings all the way to the top of the hot water heater tank i would ditch your abs plastic stub out to your pressure release valve tee, in with all metal with the pressure release valve pointed away from people

a rs is not likely to boil 40 gal water as if your taking direct heat away from the rs you wont have a fiesty burning rs, have built several homemade lout door boiler hydronic systems their is no boom! just a fizzle when the pressure release valve ever so slighty opens.
besides most homes are plummed with pex (plastic) yes you can boil water in these pipes under city pressure- sketchy i have an expansion tank on the hot water coming out of the tank . have not boiled water with the rs yet

1 hour takes the chill out 2 hours hot showers 4 hours multiple scalding bathes or steam sauna the whole bathroom, also when you heat water this way you have no thermalcline inside your hot water heater, more hot water

the cold water in the copper pipes causes dew point which quiqly gets coated with black scaly creosote looking stuff probably some surface oxidation then quickly coated, this stuff acts like a insulator i scrape away when i open the clean out i have stress tested the whole system running it on a shop vac for an hour feeding cedar framing drop cuts wvo ect i think the most dangerous aspect of the rs is the thin walled barrel which i have never gotten cherry hot with the vac

5 years ago
It would be nice if the barrel wall diameter was a little thicker ,this could be one of the sketchier elements of th rs ,wondering if anyonehas had barrel blowout

Barrel stress test, after my rsmh burnes a while notice it will get a little more sluggish, assume the mass and flu Gas temp getting closer to equilibrium , i have attached the shop vac to the chimney with cloth rag as seal. Turbo rocket, this thing roars bluefish mostly invisible flame at the throat be ready to feed the beast,few masonry cracks and pings first time(will be casting one of those fancy riser,burn box on the forums next year)
I have ran it for an hour before and deep fried on top I have a horizontal run where I wrap a wet shirt round the flu pipe as the flu gases are moving much faster don't melt that shop vac with 30' buried thermal mass 2" next to 2 rows 55 gallon barrels of water, the flu gas temp are too hot to touch with shop vac running
Obviously you want to babysit this thing.
My barrel prep, before the build I used a corrugated metal covert on blocks vertical stuffed with dry hay cypress scraps used veggie oil...ect. with the gap and the barrel to be used atop with the shop vac in blow mode feeding the fire below. 3 min paint gone, 5 min partially cherry hot I exaimined the barrel for thin spots burning metal. This really blazes it out

I have welded a air gap (diffuser)with the lid inside the bottom now top of the barrel if you don't have welder you can cut tabs round the perimeter and wedge it in maybe a few metal screws
5 years ago
I built my l feed out of the same terra cotta flu liner material anticipating cracking as their is minimal vertical lode atop
Sure enough first burn cracked it. The riser gets hotter that sand may crumble in. A cheap insulator I've used is wood ash I will be casting a high quality core next winter probably a Peter style batch box
5 years ago
nice i built a high pressure low volume gear pump for my centerfuge coupling a 3/4 hp washing machine motor to a 4runner powersteering pump pump via weld
has been working for 8 years the start capcitor has surcome to the grease i just jump start it now with a shoe lase wraped around the shaft it can spin either way
5 years ago
for those without batch burners or doors on the feed tube

so i noticed between burns in the moderately cozy temp in my house that i have set up the perfect escape rout of my stored heat the chimney

easy fix plug hole when fire is out

noticed a massive draft after fire was long gone you couldnt light a lighter in front of the chimney so much air was rushing out 12 hours after a burn

i have 30'+ flu through 350 gal of water 3yd of sand rock and cobb on a slab to store heat in so i can get a nice draft movin through the drafty house when their is a substancial temp differntial inside to out

energy doesnt like to loiter make it work to escape the home
keep the heat whatever that means
5 years ago
tight snazy build enjoy the pictures and forieghn scrap tech!

got a horizontal feed so when this problem occurs after hours of burn i slide a bridgde of bricks to lengthen my feed tube and choerce the smoke in the hole.

a thought on the problem ive noticed the first hour of burn where their is temp diffferential through the systems mass it rockets harder as the conduction through the mass slows as equalibrium is reached the rocketyness gets slighty more sluggish (on mine anyways)

i also have a hot water system when i break the thermocline in my boiler (by turning on the hot water) this jumpstarts the thermosiphon when it stalls on a insulative thermocline in the boiler(my boiler is not in the flu path though yours might behave differntly)

i bet you get hot water faster than mine i have two verticle 3/4" copper pipes outside the riser inside the barrel in the flu path in a thermo siphon loop to a hotwater heater under city pressure 1 hour take the chill out 2hours kinda hot 4 hours anyone for a steam sonna? havent thrown the preesure release valve yet
5 years ago