cesca beamish

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since Nov 18, 2014
cesca likes ...
bee forest garden trees
Leicester, UK 8b,
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Recent posts by cesca beamish

Thank you both for your help.
so you believe that this herbicide would damage the soil fungi - my horticulture tutor tells me that it adversely affects mitosis. Why oh why would you want to spray this anywhere?!

Thanks.
1 week ago
Hi,
I have been asked by a friend to help with arguing to not spray propyzamide Pesticide database entry
He is expected to spray with this during the winter to 'protect' his trees from weed growth in a new (4 yr old ish) mixed woodland - deciduous and coniferous,
Googling herbicide effect on mycorrhizal fungi generally says not affected but only referring to foliar herbicides and this one acts through the soil. I would like to add that I personally am against herbicides and feel that they are detrimental. I am looking for more specific information to persuade timber growers that the timber will be better off without propyzamide
thank you
2 weeks ago
Hi, I'm staying in Cork for 10 days over Christmas and am looking for permie places to visit. Either centres to visit /join in with tasks or just cracking good heartwarming invigorating awe-inspiring places that will help me celebrate all things good.
Any recommendations?
X
3 weeks ago
Excellent article. Thank you
1 month ago
I'm learning about mycorrhizal fungi and have a question regarding the plant/fungi phosphorus relationship please.
I understand that plants restrict the fungi establishment if their is ample AVAILABLE P thus having a negative effect on the MF and other nutrients available for the plant.
Is the P in bone meal in a form that is available? If not then I am planting new trees with fungi food - good
           If so then I am planting trees with fungi blockers?
thanks
1 month ago
The UK this summer has been unusually hot for an unusual length of time. Many trees have died but I think it is mostly betula ~pioneer trees. I wonder if the trees could not get the water to where it was needed faster than the evaporation, irrespective of how much water they had access to. It was certainly the case for smaller plants. Pots standing in water still went past the wilt point.
I had a 20yrold prunus that totally split at every branch once the weather changed and we had slightly cooler days with a bit of rain. It looked like it gorged itself and bust a gut!
2 months ago
I have an acre of woodland/forest garden in which I am trying to increase the diversity of the herbaceous layer. I also have areas of meadow - one dry sandy one richer moist - that I hope to encourage more herb flowering plants into.
I love the idea of seed balls and have been collecting seeds and saving them in different habitat categories.

When is it best to make the seed balls? - spring for spring dispersal?
but what about all the seeds that need the winter to break their dormancy? eg rattle (Rhinanthus minor) for the meadows? If I make seedballs containing them and scatter them now then surely the winter will brake down the clay ball and it will be no better than sowing naked seeds? (which is what the plant does i suppose!) should I separate these from the spring sowing?
Perhaps there are different recipes for seedballs that need to last longer?

any advise gratefully received thanks or sites explaining a bit more about the use of the seedballs rather than the making of them

thanks
Yes thanks: I should add that I am in the UK midlands~about 8b and usually a wet winter.
2 months ago
just in case anyone else looks at this ..
I got one with a flame failure device on so the gas cuts out if the flame goes and definitely designed for indoor use. I concluded the burning quality / exhaust was considered in the design. And propane bottle outside the cabin.
3 months ago
(shortish water? hotish water? not sure what you mean sorry)

I was looking at this thread as I am living in a pallet built cabin - 3"x2" frame with horizontal planks butted together on the inside and horizontal planks nailed like shingles on the outside. When it's windy air gets through the lot but I prefer the air around the wood. Major holes/knots join points etc are going to filled in but I am researching materials I might post down the cavity retrospectively. I will only be able to get odd lining planks off so it will need to be flexible.
the ceiling is already insulated with kingspan foam board stuff ( the whole cabin is from skips etc - an ethic I've tried to apply to my new home) and the floorboards are raised 6" from the ground.
any way I think lots of you are saying that
*keeping yourself warm, not your whole house is easier. (but I like the idea of some stones by the fire)
*insulation in cavities has to be kept dry and inert which can be a task in a wooden cabin/shack type of construction, breath-ability is important
*stop the prevailing winds hitting the cabin in the first place- eg growing stuff on the outside

but if anyone has any thoughts - I do have a couple of rolls of foil backed rubber stuff that I think was designed to go under those wood effect floor 'tiles'
or do you think the insulation properties of 1/2" wood sandwiching a 2" air gap is probably pretty good regarding conduction?

and I do want some ventilation -in narrowboats you have to have a certain amount of low ventilation according to whats using up the oxygen, people, fires, cookers etc
and I don't really want to amass lots of synthetic materials.

mmm think I've talked myself into an answer!

thanks

3 months ago
Cucamelons (Melothria scabra) are brilliant. Very useful size and very tasty. They even come up on their own from last year's fallen fruit. This is all in my polytunnel.
I don't have a fridge at all so try to find ways of making crops last longer.
I am perhaps not deligent enough about taking off the flower remains?
I will remove the current vine leaves and put some fresh in. I am far from squeamish but I don't do squishy pickles
3 months ago