Scott Weinberg

On your last build, have I missed what your actual layout is? or build steps?  It just appears to be there,  as well as a proposed Bell? ( heat extraction chamber ) or is this your tool box, down the road.

You also mention this list,  "The main materials will be one 100 lb propane cylinder, one 30 pound cylinder, some square tubing, ceramic tubing and refractory cement and an aluminum toolbox!"   But it would appear that you have used an sannen tube fairly extensively? Or maybe I am missing something,   And lastly, do you expect the steel tube ( where your torch is shown ) to last for the life of the stove? Just curious?  Maybe this area of metal comes out during your build.  If this metal is allowed to spall out of the system, does that change your dynamics of heat production with this unit?

Sorry for all the questions, about your interesting design.  Lastly do you intend to regulate the temp or amount of wood pellets burning, by adjusting the air inlet? with More Air equaling more pellet burning. Or is this one basic level of pellet burn?   Am curious.

Cerbu Ulea wrote:sorry Scott, I missed this post , I will make the normal frame, will buy a welding machine and try

Just a heads up, and having no idea, I will suggest that "buying a welding machine" could be a great cost for a little use, But you may be able to get exactly what you want, if you can draw out and explain to a "welder/fabricator"  in good order. There are these people all over the world, perhaps there is someone close to you.  They often have on the rack, exactly the metal you may require.  

Buying a welder, entails so much more and unless you have projects forever down the road, it may not be feasible.  These include, metal cutting tools, welding helmet, welding table maybe,  The list goes on.  Might I suggest, that getting something to do great cuts on the stone, will cost less and get used more and provide years of use.   Cutting bricks to fit the job, seems to work better than making a job to fit the bricks.

Best of success!

Randy Butler wrote:As I get older, I look for ways to make life (and chores) easier. So the bottom of the firebox in the new RMH will be up at 20 inches off the floor.


I'm pretty sure - with the supplies I already have - the easiest/simplest method is a double stack of concrete blocks.


So now my question ... if all the blocks are mortared together, is there any reason to anchor this block to the cellar floor?
If I don't need to, I'd rather not drill holes and pin into the existing concrete.
Thoughts?

Thanks!

With this being in the "exterior" side of things ( outside of the firebox )  and if your using a tension frame for the fire unit itself,  And I know these are big ifs as everyone has things they like and don't like,  but for me, a tension frame with LEGS allows any height you desire.   Again this works for me, but might not be for everyone,  

The comment on GRAVITY being your friend, really works here as well,  as there is simpy NO force for any type of movement. A litte measuring and calculating goes a long ways.

best of success.
Scott

thomas rubino wrote:Today, they delivered next year's load of firewood.

I would love that grapple,  Congrats on all the fire wood savings.

Cerbu Ulea wrote:very helpful, thanks . A flying threshold it's ok? I mean a 2-3 centimeters high bar of thin fire brick just under the front of the roof , So when the door is open the roof does not open directly to the room, I had it in previous build and reduces smells when refueling

The front of my core will look like that, 36/44 cm measures the contour for the frame

1) Am curious, from a brick laying perspective how do you hold this "flying threshold"  in place?
2)  I guess you said before, but by adding this threshold, would you not just be making two thresholds?  with the frame type door as designed by Peter wouldn't you already get this effect?

Just curious,

Scott

Bypass gates are easy to build if you have the material and know what you want in the end. I would always make them removable ( i.e. slide in from the outside of the stove)  The internal pipe does not need to be any larger than the hole, and that hole just near the top of your bell.

With your properly built stove, super wool can be used for the gasket seal around the bypass.

This post shows mine that I built a few years back and it has never failed  And always did the trick.

https://permies.com/p/2256630    If that don't work, you can just go to the complete build tag at the bottom of this and work your way down, as there is a complete posting on just the bypass gate. ( all stainless)

Keep the home fires burning.

Scott Weinberg

Cerbu Ulea wrote:it is shorty as a sidewinder, I only added the proposed air cracks, it is not my drawing . I do not want a frame, just bricks, well, guess I'll find a welder for the door then ?

Perhaps I am missing something, you say "it is a shorty"   But you don't show the Exhaust from the fire box "like a shorty"   and you propose a change to the basic front door frame/inlet of air, though now it seems like your willing to do the door cuts and perhaps have someone weld. So that is better.   So am not sure, how it could still be a shorty.

Knowing Peter has tried every conceivable shape and brick set up. to get it just right.  or perhaps better said,  A great working and scalable unit, I fail to understand why so many try to create a better mouse trap, in this case, I guess it doesn't hurt to try as long one knows the pitfall is likely.

So with the tension frame so easy to build and actually makes the whole front door frame work so much better, I would be curious as why NOT to make it.  Though granted much harder as a side winder.  Speaking strictly from a industrial designer aspect.

I don't mean to be discouraging as these stoves are great. But just want to keep folks going down a experimental path to disappointment.

Timing apparently, as at first they are showing skillet about 2' from fire box, hot enough to cook eggs,  Sitting on what kind of material?

And then not long after that, perhaps 8 foot further, someone laying on the tunnel top,   At least they are not doing both at the same time.

As it has been mentioned, I also have my doubts that with this much ISA, that a creosote  zone would not be created.  With one exception, and I just couldn't tell, if this is a fan fueled fire?  Then perhaps the fire would be hot enough to "burn/consume/combust" the creosote concerns.   So a lot of "if's" would seem to go into this.

I don't I would start this, until I know someone like Peter V has modeled, tested and documented the end results. Right down to the size of fire box and length of tunnel.  

Most but not all, do not have the luxury, to build, then rebuild, and then rebuild again.

But of course the " how it was built video was well done"   Always inspiring these build video's.

thomas rubino wrote:Hi all;
Not everyone who builds an RMH is interested in the internal temperatures.
Most are in awe of how incredible the efficiency is, and how long their home stays warm with no fire at all.

However, some of us are geeks... we want to know how hot it is inside the RMH.


What is the cost of purchasing and installing these high-temperature probes?
Generally, less than $100
The meter with several mid-temperature probes averages around $50
A ceramic high-temperature type N probe is used inside the riser and costs apx. $30

Excellent thoughts and I would like to add just a couple more.

1) by knowing  how much heat a load of wood produced, a person can quickly evaluate, if a full load of very light wood such as cotton wood/willow, that is almost free, vs a same size load of oak-hickory that perhaps took double the time to get and store but still free.   Without knowing, one really is guessing. which of course gets more accurate with experince.   But still fun to know.

2) if you have kids old enough to load the stove once or twice a day,  having them notate - time of day, temps and so on, gives them life long lessons, on keeping track of things without the aid of a computer. ( or lets them create a list to put into the computer-Just good old fashion number crunching that seems so foreign to many today)

3) forecasting heat needs- The weather man can get fairly accurate on what tomorrows temp is going to be outside, with probes you can develop temps to match those coming.  It can become fun, working your way to very even temps in your house,  ( yes lots of mass helps- but knowing what the mass temp is, internally, is even more helpful)

4) it is just plain fun!

    Tom, and anyone else, I think this would be a great place to note places that sell and what works best, or even things that seemed to work well but did not last long.    Big kiln operators, rely on  gages that last for years. ( that's a hint)

Cheers all!

Fox James wrote:I have used cement board in virtually every stove I have built, where I live standard cement board is called Magply but we get a few different ones.
Some use polypropylene fibres and some use fiberglass fibres, polypropylene melts at 160c fibreglass around 350c - 400c.
The one I use most nowadays is the HTFB made with fire cement and some sort of high temp fibres, that is good for 1000c
I have shown it in many of my videos, i just love the stuff but of course the disadvantage is the cost, HTFB cost around £360 a sheet 8’x4’

I can see now that there was different grades of this product, that I was not aware of,  as my thoughts were zeroed on the very lowest temp.  melting poly fibers and was not aware there was some really neat up grades of material.   So yes indeed, I have learned something new.  Always a good thing.

Scott