Scott Weinberg

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since Dec 24, 2016
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Recent posts by Scott Weinberg

Trace Oswald wrote:After 12 days of being quite ill, I developed big red splotches all over my body.  That was my first clue it was Lyme disease.  Started on antibiotics on Sunday.  I'm still having a lot of trouble thinking clearly.  If anyone has any advice on beating this, I would love to hear it.  Thank you.

I have no doubts on your diagnosis, but wanted to point out to others, that you can have 12 people with 12 DIFFERENT symptoms,  thus the reason it so often goes undetected for so long as often the testing goes after a particular symptom, and not Lymes.

With that said, the treatments seem to also vary greatly.  But the antibiotics, ad mistered within weeks of bite seems pretty effective.  Going after it months into seems much harder.

I know I am not helping much, but in our area (close to the hottest spot in the nation) for Lymes, there seems to be a few "people" that ONLY treat this, and do it well. I am not sure if this is true all over the USA, but there would be few full blown medical doctors that tell you this.

Best of success.
1 month ago
I love the work that Peter has done, and the files he has put up in Sketch up, which I certainly can download (and have done)

Is there anyone on here that can convert these to a file format that I can bring into my SolidWorks.  Simply being I have used solid works for over 20 years now, and know it inside and out, and for some reason seem to founder around the Sketch up workings.

Google says I should be able to export it as a STL file, which I presume would work fine, (this is exporting from Sketch up) but all I get is " if you wish to export, upgrade to Sketchup Pro)  Which I don't want to do.

If someone here knows the trick? or can do, I would appreciate it.

thanks in advance.
2 months ago
Some of you folks must live in an area where the Mulberry tree is preferred.  Here in North-east Iowa it is a weed. Where you have one tree 20 to 25 tall, you have 100 little ones 1-3 foot tall, (a 2' tree can have a 3' tap root and side roots)  with more coming every year. Please be aware that if your climate is conducive to weed trees such as this, you will be fighting forever. I have been in a pulling up-cleaning out-trying to stop them war for 40 years... Not sure if I am winning, but am fairly confident that the problem would have been worse if I had not.  

Seeds are spread by birds.

In some areas, this may not be a problem.
6 months ago

bruce Fine wrote:ok, so the btu rating of different woods does not reflect heating capacity in RMH?

so these charts

do not apply if you have a RMH?

Peter did not say that at all,  he simply said, that pound for pound the BTU's for wood remain about the same....  that is not say a armload of red elm has the same BTU's of a arm load of popular..  If the red elm is 100 pounds and the popular is 60 pounds, but both have about the same BTU's per POUND of wood. (not volume) then it means just that.
10 months ago

[b wrote:paul wheaton[/b]]

Scott Weinberg wrote:  If you don't trust a relief valve, then put in two of them.
The odds of a double failure at the very same time, is well.................. pretty darn hard to calculate.

In areas that they tend to gum up in a couple of years, it would seem that in five years of use, the odds of both of them being gummed up seems to be about 100%.

yes, I had completely forgot those areas of the world where there are NO protected water heating systems. With everyone sitting on time bombs... to bad for them....


1 year ago
I lost count on how many times the original poster stated that he was NOT making a closed system.  And then even more telling him NOT to make a closed system.  If you don't trust a relief valve, then put in two of them.
The odds of a double failure at the very same time, is well.................. pretty darn hard to calculate.

By the way, every single water heating system, here in the states has a "relief" valve.  Yes, we are not heating water to steam levels.  But you think about it, you could get paranoid about "What if the gas valve never shut off and the heater continues to burn" or "what if the electric element never shut down and continued to heat" and so on.

Friends, while I feel it is grand to calculate what may work and what may not.... in this case when it would be so permanent it would seem prudent to go with a known working system and then NOT change a thing.

Some of the best guru's in the world concerning Rocket stoves/heaters have made little changes in attempt to make a better stove with  disappointing results.  I love the fact they tried, failed and then explain what went wrong.  Thus we all learn. Some of these things are simple items like "just a few feet to long of heat run"  or "one little restriction here"  or  "when warm it works well, when cold it don't work at all"   yet these very same folks, can undoubtedly state-  This system HERE, works well.  That my friends, if you don't have the resources to do it all over again, would seem the prudent way to go.

We all learn from others mistakes, I will give you that, but in this case, I would be most interested in learning from someone that has done exactly this method of heating, in this climate, with these resources to go forward with a permanent build.  I don't mean to throw water on the fire...but rather slow down some of the  "what if's" "maybe if you do that" and " I think that perhaps" ideas.
1 year ago
Linda, I think your getting some very helpful replies, with many suggesting the second skin/plastering.  It also sounds like your doing this work yourself.  I would like to suggest, that the second skin if done with bricks, GAINS much from the joints not being in the same place as your inner wall of bricks.  Bricks are dimensional  i.e. 4.5 x 9 or 1/2 tall as they are long.  This makes 1/2 lapping a fairly easy task by either starting with a 1/2 brick, or turning a horizontal brick vertical. Corners can be ended opposite of the inner layer-  All the while your laying "this second layer" look to where the joints will come out compared to the inner layer.  

You will find, if using the excellent fire brick mortar available, that making a very thin but smooth joint is possible.  With the slightest touch of water, you can almost get plaster smooth to SEAL everything. You can do this inside and out.  i.e. on your first layer outside, joints of the second layer, and second layer outside. YOU should not have to take anything apart if you feel your first core was done correctly.

Perhaps I missed it, but I don't see where you say, that your fire roars to life at any point in the burn..  Does it?  If not, then perhaps this leads us into another area? design build flaw? I have found that sometimes the slightest error in the build can cause a lackluster burn.

Just thoughts.  
1 year ago