If the cabin has a floor, why not dig a small hole (VENTED) and put those batteries under the floor?
They need to be away from you but they will not freeze under a heated cabin. (Besides, if you dig a bit, you are really making a mini-earth ship for your batts
Same thing for the freezer. We put ours outside in the winter. No point using all that solar to fight the wood stove.
You can also vent the fridge through the wall with a small fan, so in the cold the temp will be from the outside temp and not your sun power.
We used these in the 10watt variety. Great for path lighting. VERY weather proof.
We ran them on a regular 120V light switch...even though some will scoff at that. In the lower amperage, you will be fine to use the 120VAC stuff to switch 12V/24V lighting.
A simple inline fuse of the proper is all you need. The fancy ones cost a lot but they don't make your rig any more safe.
We used the .99 cent plastic fuze holders with some super sensitive fuses that I cannot find at the moment...sorry!
That system you have there is a great size and you have enough batteries if those are group 24 sized.
We have three 330 watt panels that actually max out our charge controller. We get 60 Amps into the batteries anytime from 10AM to 4PM-ish if needed.
We have found that using the sun power direct after the batts are topped off (They top off for us by 11AM) helps with large loads.
We have a small Xantrex inverter. This one: https://www.ebay.com/p/Xantrex-Prowatt-SW2000-806-1220-2000-Watt-True-Sinewave-Inverter/1900002456?iid=352095945891
When using our microwave, it is tapped out to the max. (It works, but at its max.) If we are using it for more than warming a cup of tea, we usually do so during the "peak solar charge" time.
Not sure what you are going to use to wire your inverter, but the wires that some people use make problems.
I used "0" gauge welding cable, (double plus the size of average jumper cables) and it made a huge difference.