Andy Green

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since Jan 20, 2017
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Recent posts by Andy Green

Hi Dylan,

some search like ""
would get you what you want.
Good example:

But I would concentrate on tree crops.
I.e. nuts:

My recommendation for a cash crop:
Saskatoon Amelanchier species.
"Blue"berry I M H O (the forum people a zealots) *better* than the original blue berry bushes.
Way better labor / yield ratio than the Vaccinium species.

You can sell them easily to your local grocery shops (good self life) or
dry them and sell them later, out of season, dried.

2 years ago
Hello Benny,

I assume you want the strawberry seeds for producing a ground cover.
If you do that you will end up with a nice green ground cover that produce a "flood" of strawberry once a year.

Let me propose a different way.
If you get 10-20 true ever-bearing, day-neutral strawberry plant that produce lots of runner, you will have about 100 plants after one year.

The best variety for this strategy is 'Rebecka' (if you can get her). Also good, but less runner, is 'Seascape'.
Look here for varieties that are day-neutral:

If you do it this way, you will have the whole summer strawberry. Not just one 'flood' of them.
I have for 10 months in a year strawberry. And my 'Rebecka' had produced 134 new plants from one mother plant in one season.

3 years ago
Hello Dan,

I'm afraid I have to disappoint you.

Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba) is bred and cultivated since about 4000 years.
The Chinese eat more jujube than apples.

It turns out that the longer a species is bred the more unlikely it is that you get a seedling close to the mother plant or even better.
Apples and Jujube are probably an equal time in cultivation. And you probably know what you usually get from an apple seedling ?
Mr. Floyd Zaiger, the leading fruit breeder these days said that he has to plant 25000 seedlings to get one seedling better than the mother plant.
That is your chance too to get a good or even better jujube from seed.
Not impossible, but very unlikely.

You have to root or graft a cutting if you don't want risk wasting 4+ years for a tree which fruits you don't like to eat.

Good luck.

3 years ago
Hello Kevin,

I develeoped a different strategy.

Looking for dwarfs is highly restricting in choice.
Make your own dwarfs.
I have 20+ fruit and nut trees. All under 2.5m. Many of them already productive.
And all will stay at 2-2.5 metre, because that is the size I designed them to stay.
How ?
Root control bags.
These bags are made out of geo-fabric (predicted lifetime 50+ years).
If you put a plant (any) in a root control bag you will observe some amazing effects.

The plant roots will grow strait into and through the root control bag.
But, because the geo-fabric is made in a way (needled) that do not allow to widen the very fine holes in the fabric, the root is stuck after about 10 cm grow.
This restricting of the roots has has an almost magic effect on the plant.

The plant "think" it is grown up and done with root development.

The plant now:
- Stop growing in high.
- Start growing fruit/nuts.

VERY early. Usually after 3-4 years. Even with species that usually take 20+ years unrestricted to come in production.

You will get a strong ! healthy, productive plant.
I have: Acca sellowiana | Araucaria bidwillii | Asimina triloba | Carica papaya × C. pentagona | Coffea arabica | Citrus × sinensis | Cyphomandra betacea | Diospyros kaki | Ficus carica | Jubaea chilensis | Juglans neotropica | Morus alba × Morus ruba | Morus macroura | Morus nigra | Musa acuminata | Parajubaea torallyi var. torallyi | Punica granatum | Rollinia deliciosa | Xanthoceras sorbifolium

In root control bags.
Only Diospyros kaki and a peach are grafted, all other on own roots.
On own roots works best with root control bags. If you can't get what you want on own roots, get it on the most vigorous root stock available.

I have the best results with 3 gallon / 10 litre bags in 40 litre high strength plant bags (with handles).
You can put the bag of course also just in the ground. You *may* have to secure them with stakes to not get blown over.
They make usually a 2-2.5m plant.
But you can also start with a 2 gallon bag and if the final size after 3-4 years is not large enough, just transplant it to a 3 gallon bag.
The plant will start growing again until the new bag is filled up with roots.

If you one day decide that you want 'free' a plant from the bag, no problem the plant will establish itself in an amazing speed and start growing again until its natural/genetic size is reached.

You can get them sold as "Smart Pot"
For example sold worldwide from:
There are Chinese clones sold as "Phat sacks". These seems to work too. But I would stick to the Smart Pots because there are since many years on the market.

Good luck.


P.S. if you want recommendations for fertilizer and my irrigation system, ask.
3 years ago