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Jarret Hynd

pollinator
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since Apr 17, 2017
250mm of Rainfall, Average Windspeed 10kph & Prevailing WNW.
Sask, Canada - Zone 3b
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Recent posts by Jarret Hynd

It was $23 New less than a year ago unfortunately. :(

This happens mostly because of how eCommerce has evolved. I'm not 100% sure, but my guess is that the algorithms of all the online sites study each others' products and prices in a way that similar to the stock market. When a scenario occurs where there are limited places that sell the book, many sites' prices seems to go crazy like this. Recently I noticed this problem with Power of Duck as well.

The only solution I can think of to fix this, is for Sepp/Publisher to pump out more books at a more reasonable price.

p.s the German version of it, Der Agrar- Rebell, is selling for $20.

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Considering you are in the US, the best bet for now might be to add it to your wishlist and get notifications if any Used copies become available. Chances are it'll still be a high price on Thriftbooks as well, but likely not over the $100 mark at least. (even though the thumbnail is German, the language version below says English)
4 months ago
Hey Thomas, welcome to permies :)

I started work at a farm with a couple hundred sheep&cows recently, and was going to recommend a Hopper Trailer which is what we use. But after searching for an image of the Hopper Trailer I think by dumb luck I might have found what you are searching for, or at least close to it.




Source: http://www.tsfeeders.com/

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Mind you, I think that tote idea people are recommending sounds like a perfectly viable option, especially if you can modify it a little to work like the hopper in the pic.
5 months ago
Since you are in North America, I would suggest getting a hold of Edible Forest Gardens Volumes 1&2. The Permaculture Design Manual is the best overall for all things Permaculture, but the Edible Forest Volumes are more like encyclopedias. Which bacterium are beneficial to which plants, all the technical details to planting a food forest, which plants are the best Dynamic Accumulators, etc - even something as simple as how to properly dig a hole is explained in great detail. Diagrams and Graphs galore! I've only just skimmed through bits of them, but because the information is so specific to USA/Canada, I would suggest this as a better alternative to a PDC.

I see books and experience to be like getting the needed hours before one takes a driving test, and the PDC is the actually test, but that's just me. Because of the way PDC certification works with who can teach it, there are some people in the prairie provinces I would classify as Advanced Gardeners (or garden masters), yet they hold PDC certificates and teach permaculture. I believe though if they were placed in a rural pasture with the goal of restoring 100 acres, they'd likely be overwhelmed and have little knowledge to share. The knowledge I see being advertised for such courses and workshops is stuff that can be found in many $20-$50 permaculture books. If I'm going in for a $800-$1200 PDC, I'm taking the course to learn how to work on large scale(>5 acres) or advanced projects, likely with big EarthWork machines involved and lots of teaching of how to calculate the 100's of variables properly.

With that said, I think you get to join alumni forums in some cases, which gives you access to a lot of smart people that can help you further. Also if one lacks self-confidence even after years of growing&practicing, maybe that's a reason to get a PDC.
5 months ago

Jess Dee wrote:Jarret - I am quite intrigued with your tomato circles.  This would solve a couple of problems for me (what to do with greywater from the kitchen sink, and also growing tomatoes, as we don't generally water our garden, and they don't do well for us because of it). Can you elaborate on your technique?  Thanks!
Jess.



I actually experimented with the concept before I even knew what permaculture was, because I had found an old trampoline frame at the landfill and figured I could make it work as a trellis. The first circle was just tomatoes planted about 8 inches apart and everything was mulched within the trampoline space - there was no pit involved. That was a great year overall with a bumper crop of all produce, so it's hard to draw conclusions from that year.

The 2nd time I tried it this year though, I made some smaller circles that were 3 feet in diameter with some kind of junk garden fence I found - it's a little stronger than chickenwire. I dug a hole 1 foot deep and put some "paper" logs (those that are very decomposed) in the middle. It's hard to say if this recent changes to the circle were better or not for Tomatoes, because of a freak hail storm on July 10th that pretty much flattened everything. Before that point I was sure I'd be enjoying peppers and tomatoes by the start of August as fruit was already forming.

Jess Dee wrote:  How many tomato plants do you put in the circle?



The 1st year I planted about 40 of them, but by mid-season there were 20 big ones crawling all over each other. I also added potted tomatoes in a few spaces, but they did not perform nearly as well as the ones in the ground.

The 2nd year for some reason I didn't grow many tomatoes, so I think only 8-10 got planted into each circle.

Just to note: It's interesting that in the article a very important stat isn't mentioned, which is mentioned in the PDC videos by Geoff Lawton. An Australian University compared the production of conventional rows of Bananas found in plantations vs that in Banana Circles, and the Banana Circles were 81(?) times more productive when you consider inputs and outputs. But then again, that's in a climate that's best at growing bananas, and Sask is not the ideal place to be growing Tomatoes outdoors. If I ever get the chance, I'll try a Tomato Circle in a greenhouse.

Jess Dee wrote:  Do you plant a root crop similar to the taro in the article?



You mean within the Tomato Circles? I probably would try carrots, but I struggle to grow them for whatever reason - Hutterite carrots are fairly cheap and good tasting anyways. Remember that the Banana Tree is huge and can reach far out for nutrients which leaves enough space for the taro to grow in. I feel as though many root crops would just compete with the annual tomatoes in our already rough conditions, but experimenting never hurts.

Jess Dee wrote:What else do you plant in that patch?  


Tried herbs last year such as marjoram and basil, but they didn't seem to work well because of the way tomato circles grow they end up getting shaded out. I'm going to be planting a lot of parsley this year as it was one of the few plants that was unharmed by hail, loved being in the natural soil (unlike most herbs which need pots) and is reasonably shade-tolerant. I'll be trying fennel this year as well, so we'll see how it goes.

Jess Dee wrote: Do you rotate crops in the circles (or would you?) or keep the same plant set there each year?


I'm not sure what to think of crop rotation, though with most of the above-ground veggies I still do use the technique, so yes the circles are moved each year.

But, my guess is that my 2nd year hugel which I'm using for potatoes will work out fine for years to come, so I see no reason why any plant should have to be moved around each year as long as the microbes in the soil are in a good balance.

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I still have a few years of testing to go before I can say anything concrete about the "proper" settings for Sask Tomato Circles.

I have started to do ground-level, densely planted potatoes in recent years - talked it here. This may seem counter intuitive-based on what you originally explained, but the results I was getting from the traditional method were piss-poor at best. Note that I do not baby any of my plants at all once they are in the ground. Ex. The hugel potatoes got watered 4 times last season, but it was a real drenching/deep-watering.

I take our increasingly changing weather patterns seriously and am trying to prepare/adapt accordingly.  

Monty Loree wrote:This dry weather is going to make it so that it will take many years to learn basic gardening, and how to deal with dry...

The one thing that I did well last year:
I planted 50 tomatoes... and by each tomatoe, I put in a 6-8" length of weeping tile... - 4 "  perforated pipe.  So I was getting water right by the roots..
I cut 50 pieces of this pipe... and it worked well for the tomatoes... I was watering 1 hour per night... which got to be tiresome.. but the tomatoes were well watered...
I will probably have to do something like this for the rest of the garden...



Good work, as it takes a lot of dedication to water every few nights.

Watering is something I hate spending so much time on, but I'm also trying to use the least amount of plastic possible. I have 100' of drip irrigation and lots of scrap 3' pipe laying around I could use, but my goal is to create a food production system anyone can use without having to buy a lot of stuff. Of course I had to suck it up and admit that the use of some plastic is unavoidable here.  

Doing the different types of earthworks as you mentioned before (hugels, swales, etc) seem to be a necessary starting point for any Sask gardener though.
It seems you have managed to rally all the Sask people to this thread. Good work, Monty :)

Everyone's given you plenty of good advice already to start with, so I'll just add a few small observations. When I first started using mulch on rows, I placed it in an 8 inch radius around the plants. However, the 30'C sun heats up all the ground outside the 8 inch area which ended up drying the soil under the mulch as well. To combat this issue, I go mulch an extra 3 feet around the edge of the planting area, along with the walking paths which also helps reduce compaction/weeds.

Then there is covercropping, which I leave to the mallow&alfalfa to take care of in order to prevent any bare hot spots from occurring in the garden. Though if you wanted something more conventional, you could grow clover in bare areas which is also leguminous. Mallow explodes in grow in the heat of summer, is easy to chop&drop or just pull out, and if you are adventurous it tastes pretty good in soup&salads.

There is also a technique from the tropics known as Banana Circles, which I adapted to create Tomatoes Circles. Having alternated between rows and circles for 4 years now, I won't ever use rows again for Tomatoes as the evidence is clear to me that circles are more productive. (at least in an outdoor environment)    

Lastly, note that mulch can be a double-edged sword, as from what I've seen any rain less than 0.8 inches will barely dampen the first inch of soil, so you need to be diligent with checking how dry the soil is around your plants and water appropriately.

Bryant RedHawk wrote: In Regina you might find that having a hoop house would benefit you greatly by giving you a longer growing season as well as helping with dry conditions during the growing season, along with reducing irrigation losses.  


I will be growing a majority of my tomatoes and peppers in a roughly built Walipini created last Fall out of frustration. $1/square foot is chump change compared to missing out on a season because of unpredictable weather. I will be enjoying hot peppers in 2019!
Hey Roberto, welcome to Permies :)

Su Ba's list is excellent. I would suggest starting with the points 1, 5 & 6, as those are all about the elimination of negatives. If one doesn't remove the negatives, then the positive habits don't have as much impact, which makes people think that good habits are not actually helpful and proceed to give up in trying to change.  

With that said, I would be cautious with any strict diets that may be recommended to you. Try them certainly, but introduce them at a slow pace - some bodies do not respond well to doing 180 degree changes in many areas in such a short amount of time. (changing diet, changing eating patterns, changing sleep pattern, etc.)

From what I've learned about various diets, the only certainty I can tell you is to eat as much locally grown food as possible. In the end though, you'll have to be the one to figure out which food group(s) are best suited for you. :)  

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There is a book I only got to skim through as I ended up busy with other projects, but if you make an account you can be put on the waiting list for when it's your turn to borrow it for 14 days.
Herbs the Magic Healer

Herbs, especially fresh, are good for a lot aliments or cleansing, but as others have said: don't consider them a cure-all, as no single element is.
5 months ago
As someone who has less than a 1mbs connection, hopefully my perspective can be of use to you.

Daron Williams wrote: But the posts are still too big size wise for people in rural areas with slow internet.



Something you may not have taken into consideration is that the website advice of "you need a fast loading site or people won't stay to view it" does not apply so much to the rural audience, because they are used to slower load times since they have slower connections.

Daron Williams wrote: My understanding is that in some rural communities there is a lack of options - here is an article that discusses it from 2018: https://phys.org/news/2018-01-rural-america-broadband-internet.html  



The article is a topic I study a lot, as my province's pop is 50% rural influenced, and it's true options are limited. The main reason for it is that a company usually monopolizes a specific rural area, then gets grant $ to improve service, but only moderately "improve" the services while pocketing the rest - at least here in the prairie provinces it's well-documented. /off-topic

However Jim and Jondo are correct, that you shouldn't cater too the 1% :) . But, rural people are not as helpless as has been described. Watching a video in 480p is one thing, but loading a basic website is not a strenuous task. Pinterest&Instagram aren't even that bad, though once in awhile you may tap your foot twice waiting for 5-10 seconds.

I would say not to cater to the internet-deficient, but try to keep them in mind when making your posts.

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Not that you were looking for opinions, but your site currently feels very spammy to me right now even though the imaging and layout are good.

The "Get your cheat-sheet" and the various other selected freebies you have appear 4 times on every single page: once at the top right, 2 times in the article and a pop out near the end. This not only impacts your audience, but your load time as well. On my crap internet your last ad/offer that loads is the one on the top right, so i'd scrap it and then retest your load times. (I would scrap a 3rd ad personally as 2 is enough, but that's up to you)

Daron Williams wrote:The issue is that everything I have read says that having media rich content is very important these days for a site to show up on google and get decent traffic. So I have been following those recommendations to make the posts more likely to get good traffic and be shared on social media.  



There are not as many homestead sites as you may think, and most of the time they are only optimized slightly. Something that is more important than appealing to google's algorithms is finding the proper niche audience/niche content to appeal to. It is like the big fish/small pond scenario, which is what the whole game is about for bloggers starting out.

5 months ago

frank li wrote: And then find they are on the way out also......
https://solarprofessional.com/articles/business-finance/celebrating-a-decade-of-unparalleled-technical-content#.XCUbcXQo6BY
Crapola! Archive, archive, archive! And sending out for back issues in print. Computer displays cannot do it for me.



Yeah, you can see at the bottom of SolarPro's site that it was an enthusiast spin-off magazine for HomePower, so this makes sense that it stops publishing as well.

I hope you are able to download the archived magazines, even if they remain available on both sites, because you never know how long that will last. The history and information in those magazines (especially the political references) are very important to future generations, as it's too easy to bury information these days with the way the internet media functions.

It seems like the sites will continue to stay up, and they still offer their courses, so at least they'll continue informing people in that way.

5 months ago
Bad, bad, bad
  • Giving 2 of my best pumpkins to my sister's friend around thanksgiving one year. When I asked at christmas what they did with them, she said threw them in the garbage. Apparently they were forgotten about in a shelf and turned from a nice light orange to a blue, almost moldy colour :) (har har)
  • Gave a couple about a pound of my first ever crop of oyster mushrooms that I grew, and I'm 90% sure they threw them away. I had asked them 2 days later how the mushrooms tasted, and they replied "how what tasted?" "oh those, yes, good" - but from the tone I could tell they were being polite. (some people are really paranoid when dealing with home-grown mushrooms I've learned)  
  • I give a certain family member around 20-30 pounds of food per year. The potatoes get eaten, but most of the tomatoes, beans, garlic , onions, etc, all gets shoved in a freezer or pantry. I wouldn't mind that...if they didn't buy onions, tomatoes and garlic from the store the following week. *hits head again wall* (the good news is they cleaned their freezer out this year, so I took all of my 2 year old produce back and used it up in a week.)
  • A reverse point of view: a local family grows pumpkins for the stores at halloween. We moved our cows home in early November, and as we passed by their land I saw about 75+ rotting pumpkins in the field. I assume they weren't "store worthy" and so they were part of the typical "ugly food" waste. I would have loved to buy 20 of them even at full price back when they were in good condition - oh well, the deer must have enjoyed them.

  • The good-ish
  • Despite the 2 pumpkins rotting in the above tale, the other 4 people I gave excess to did use them to make pies.
  • I've given various berries and herbs away every year that always end up getting used quickly.
  • The only major feel-good story I can remember is in 2016, which was a great year for gardening: I was getting about 50 pounds of beans per week, for 5-6 weeks, so I ran around trying to give them away to everyone. Apparently the locals had enough beans for the year, so they took several bags to church on sunday, cut the ends off and gifted them to families in the next town over who had just immigrated to Canada.

  • Options I use now:
    I could have given away 10's of pounds of lettuce, spinach and chard this fall, but the effort of finding people that wanted them didn't seem to be worth it, at least that's what my gut told me. So, I ate a lot of salad in September and left the rest to feed the soil for next year.

    In the future, when I have enough land to really develop permaculture systems, I'll plan it out to only grow what annuals I need + 20% for excess that I give to close friends or barter with. The rest of the land will go into perennial plants, and if no one wants some of that excess produce from that, it can be like the lettuce this year and go back to the land, or the birds can have it, or whatever else is happy to eat it. Food Giveaways & Donations don't really work efficiently in the extreme rural area I'm in, and the amount of people who would eat the produce I grow is slim to none unfortunately - meat n' potato country.

    I have the same sentiments as Su Ba: there is nothing worse than taking the time and effort to grow something for months, GIFT it to someone (usually after they admire it), and then it ends up being thrown away.
    6 months ago
    I bumped a Hazelnut topic on Permies last year with inquiries, and after some research Hazelnuts actually seem to grow better in the Wild up north rather than south, so one could speculate they are able to produce pretty well with our short seasons :)

    This Alberta nursery says 2a, which would be Fort McMurray territory. I'd go with S Bengji's advice and take the plunge.
    https://treetime.ca/productsList.php?pcid=114&tagid=8

    You could try ordering from GrimoNut, as their parent stock is based off plants grown in the prairies, but are hybridized. They are from Ontario and the site says that the nuts ripen at the end of August, but since the prairies get the most sunshine-hours in all of Canada, it helps us catch up with our shorter season, so I'd say end of August/early September sounds about right. They sold all their hazelnuts before March last year when I was checking the site. I have never dealt with them, so I can't give much insight other than that. (they have good hazelnut credentials though)

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    An interesting observation this year: I was repairing fence on some rented pasture and the owners have a u-pick type setup, where they apparently got very few berries because of cold spring weather. But while I was fencing only 1km away from that u-pick, I stopped for 15 minutes to eat wild serviceberries(saskatoons) and every plant was filled. I could be wrong in my hypothesis, but since the wild plants were located half way up a hill, the frost didn't do damage as it couldn't accumulate like it did at the bottom of hill where the u-pick was located. Also, about 300ft down the hill was a swampy area, which I guess helped to moderate the temperature at night.

    So as Marco notes, have a good location planned out and there is little reason to worry. There isn't much you can do to mitigate the negative impacts of snow in June though, besides curse :P (I was one of the few who was in the path of a 2km strip of ping-pong sized hail during a storm in July, and that's what I did lol)
    6 months ago