tamara dutch

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since May 28, 2017
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Recent posts by tamara dutch

Pig farmer in the Netherlands milked his sows for cheese making. More of a joke thing, since they don't give that much with the piglets needing their share, but it can be done.
4 weeks ago

R Scott wrote:Another option is to make a lye solution and test it with pH strips, then you can convert to ml. But you will lose the heat of the lye and basically need to do hot process. I know I have seen this in old wood ash recipes, testing the lye strength with red cabbage.  You’ll have to google the specifics.


For cold processing the ingredients need to be the same temperature i.e. if everything is liquid at roomtemperature you are fine.
I don't heat my olive oil (another reason it is all i use for making soap), just make the lye water mix the evening before and let it calm/cool overnight. Weigh oil next morning, add lye, mix with soap designated blender and poor into molds. Doesn't work with hard fats, but i don't use those (heating fats makes them temperamental and lye itself has enough of that for me).
2 months ago
I make cold process soap, and for starters the fat used determines how much lye you need. You cannot use the same amounts lye and fat for whatever fat or mix of you have. There are calculators for such online :
http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp

Otherwise, yes use more fat then the lye needs i.e. oversaturation, 3-5% is normal for some mosturizing and the safety that all the lye has found some fat to join with. You can use fairly limited amount of water (less shrinkage of soap during curing process), but fat and lye are the chemical reaction here, the water just helps things come together.

There are people that make the lye even, (running water through woodash), but that is a hit or mis thing strength wise and if you want bars of soap that need to cure, are way milder on your hands and can be stored you'll need to add salt to the mix. The lye you can now buy for soap making is sodiumhydroxide (sodium being the salt). So total number of ingredients in barsoap is 4 (water, lye, salt, fat).

I use just oliveoil because i can easily get it and i started making soap to replace the alleppo soap that while good was both expensive and awkward to handle. Now with individual molds the soaps are both pretty and invite handling and thus use (and that is what they are for).

While i would like having volume measurements for soap, i don't want to risk it, i make it for myself and a few family members like a few small batches every 2 years or so. Experimenting is fun, but i cannot test for safety well enough other then just use it to want to mess with alternative ways of portioning the ingredients. Adding some coffee grounds is a good addition for getting hands clean after gardening and such and it looks like a tsp of honey is good also, but other amounts go by weight to the gram.
2 months ago

Tereza Okava wrote:

tamara dutch wrote:I would also put a wildlife camera on the cage, because i'd want to know what chewed on the newborn kits. The doe herself or a rat/whatever. Might also answer the question of stillborn or killed after.


I would also want to see how the babies are getting outside the box. Maybe the nest box needs some improvement, or the babies need some more protection (did they die from exposure, were they stillborn, etc etc)


Given that this happened during kindling, the doe likely started outside, rabbits don't move their kits.
5 months ago
I would cull doe 1. Mothering for me is an inherited trait and that is a problem here. I would also put a wildlife camera on the cage, because i'd want to know what chewed on the newborn kits. The doe herself or a rat/whatever. Might also answer the question of stillborn or killed after.
Since the mothering trait can be passed on via a buck to his offspring, i'd say no to keeping any for breeding from her.

Note : there are plenty of breeders that do the 3 chances thing on this, it tends to keep such traits going. So ask about the mothering abilities of the doe you get a kit from. Good from first litter on or losses first and why.
5 months ago
I make handsoap, but due to some research on how soap works vs detergents (i.e. commercial washingpowder), i don't use it for clothes and such.
Plainly put : soap "sticks" to rough surfaces like cloth just like it does to dirt. Means it wont come out of the clothes easily, hence the hard bashing and scrubbing the old washerwomen did to get clothes clean before washingmachines and detergents.
In  a modern washing machine that doesn't do bashing, since with detergent that is not needed, some of the soap (and dirt) stays in the cloth.
So it may be ok in old fashioned setups with a washboard, but i wouldn't want to. I did wash by hand for a while with detergents (no machine for a bit), but that already is enough work on top of a full workweek to not be attractive.
Better explanation in this link :
http://butterbeliever.com/homemade-laundry-detergent-soap-diy/
9 months ago
Here EU/NL you can buy minutes for calling / text that is valid for a year and longer if you add some before the year runs out. Also keeps the number yours on the chip you bought to start with. Buy your own phone to use it. Done this for 20+ years by now, but most years i use up about 15 euro's a year.

Quotes i see above here aboout US plans sound expensive to me. Also pick a phone that handles a touch more then just call and text and get whatsapp for free text + photo's and such, helps with questions to say friend, vet or doctor if you can add picture (and taking pictures has its uses for other things as well). Some tech stuff is getting usefull these days, but i agree with staying on the simple side of it. My phone could do way more then i allow it internet and such wise, i don't like the miniscreen for it or the vulnarability and having everything everywhere. Rather have tasks like paying and internet on a bigger screen and just one device.
11 months ago
Batteries are the big money part of a solar system and part of that is the short lifespan compared to the other parts.

This article lays out the option of using direct solar and avoid the battery (mostly) by using electric when it is produced and also charging machines and such that have their own battery (mobile, laptop, powertools, ... ).
https://solar.lowtechmagazine.com/2023/08/direct-solar-power-off-grid-without-batteries/
&
https://solar.lowtechmagazine.com/2023/12/how-to-build-a-small-solar-power-system/

1 year ago
Overall : yes to prevention via rotational grazing (longer gras and move before the second bite), hay and such fed off the ground and a diet with the right dose of minerals. Herbal dewormers? Honestly i haven't seen a real use/proof of working from these. As prevention they might have a place due to solving deficiency, but actually kicking worms out the back end not so much. Makes them more a cost for peace of mind then a usefull part of the diet. Means you'd be better of taking a critical look at the diet, adjust where needed and get things back on track with the addition of a chemical dewormer if needed.
Also : yes to doing your own fecal tests on your goats. Because not all lifephases of the worms shed eggs and not all eggshedding worms pass eggs along every time the animal poops, test your (suspect) goat twice daily for 5 days. A vet can't do that due to time and cost, so mostly an animal that fails to thrive and presents with could be worms symptoms will be wormed.
If you want to avoid chemical wormers due to cost, access or philosophy, you'll need to do fecal tests on your herd (mix or individual) every 6-8 weeks for 5 days twice a day as long as the gras grows/insects are active. And as part of a prevention plan that includes how you feed (off the ground), minerals and pasture management. Also once you know who your high wormegg load culprits are, worm them with chemical dewormer and test them again 2 weeks later and onto normal schedule to see if the load goes down or that they can't keep the worms suppressed by themselves. You may have to decide to cull/sell such animals both due to contributing to the higher parasite load on the property and the failure to thrive under your circumstances. A normal, healthy animal should be able to suppress the wormload to low just because they are healthy and the immunesystem handles such problems without a bother. Pretty much all animals in contact with living things and soil/organic material will have worms as mothers will pretty much pass them to ofspring through feces (eaten to start intestinal flora) and the curiosity of tasting pretty much anything (mouth is for animals what hands are for humans when it comes to that). So you can't get the wormburden to zero and it is not needed to try, health handles most if not all of those problems, so select for it in your animals. Healthy animals are cheapest to keep and don't keep you up at night worrying.
1 year ago
Usually the standard 4, and some years just 2 : Wet & Dry
1 year ago