Andrew Mayflower wrote:
chris florence wrote:
We solve the problem of high cost protein in 3 ways :
1) Hunting - This may not be an option where you live but we hunt for about 90% of our meat here in Idaho. It's better than organic and necessitates a lifestyle of fitness and physical activity. Pretty good side benefits, eh ?
2) Foraging - Wild things are the healthiest food you can find. This, like hunting, has a learning curve but can be fairly reliable, especially with preservation techniques.
3) Mushroom Cultivation - No matter where you live, you can grow mushrooms (much easier than meat). Most mushrooms are high in protein and some have a taste very similar to meat.
Hope this helps !
I'm a hunter. I go every year for elk, and 4 out of the last 5 years we've gotten one. I wish I had the time to also hunt deer, but with 4 kids the wife doesn't want me gone that much. If I had my way I'd hunt the vast majority of our protein as I like the taste so much better, and the health benefits are big too.
All that said, the idea you can get low cost protein by hunting is one of the most ridiculous things I've read. Once you account for the guns/bows, ammo/arrows, practice, travel, camping equipment or accommodation expenses, licenses, special permit applications/preference points, and so on, plus amortizing the cost of the years you don't kill anything, and hunting is probably one the most expensive ways to acquire protein. And that's here in the western USA, where you can get quality hunting opportunities on public land. In the mid-west and back east where you're either in a pumpkin patch on public land, or paying through the nose for a lease on private land it gets ever more costly. It's still worth the expense, but let's not kid ourselves on the total costs involved.
Corey Schmidt wrote:I have a few bits of info to offer, having done rainwater catchment systems for 5 different homes now.
1: it might be a good idea to shop around for the tank. I recently purchased a 2500 gallon hdpe water tank (Norwesco) from Home Depot in Kenai Alaska for just over $1000.
2: an alternate means of collecting rainwater is to run the water from the gutter through a screen, first flush device, then into a 30-50 gallon barrel with a pump on a float switch that pumps it through filters into your tank, assuming you have electricity. The first flush device can be in a conditioned space along with the catch and pump barrel (just be sure to put an overflow on the barrel as well as your big tank!). You can also put a diverter in your downspout to send all water away when everything is full (by manually turning a valve- easy if you switch from normal gutter to 2"dwv(drain/waste/vent) pipe (ABS). I usually pump sequentially through 30, 10, and 1 micron standard spun polyester filters 2" x10"-- filters should be available locally for under $7 each. I usually have to change them 2-4 times per year, and the housings run around $30 each for culligan brand.
3. starting for around $450 you can get a UV sterilizer. If you put a 5 micron 4" x 20" filter after your pump then a UV sterilizer after that, you've got potable water throughout your house. The UV sterilizer does need to operate continuously (i think its about 10 watts) and the bulb needs changed once a year (about $90). Its recommended to do it this way rather than batch treatment before your tank because UV has no residual disinfecting power.
I did a write up on one system for a summer only cabin
I hope some of this can be of benefit!
Creighton Samuiels wrote:
Rez Zircon wrote:
Creighton Samuiels wrote:But if you are using rainwater, there shouldn't be any sediment.
Not true -- depending on conditions, rainwater can have enough sediment that it looks like ditchwater. Rain catches dust in the air; your roof catches dust and sheds a certain amount of grit; trees shed organic particles even if you don't see obvious leaves etc. This area isn't even dusty and I've had to scrape mud out of the gutters -- washed down the roof by the rain. Sand and coarser particles aren't the problem, as they'll settle out easily enough; what clogs filters is suspended microgrit.
Well, sure. If your roof is asphalt it could be bad. If your roof is metal, it's less likely. Also, that is what the first flush devices are for; diverting the first couple gallons that come off the roof during a rainstorm. That's where the vast majority of the dust & clutter will be anyway. And there is supposed to be a high flow filter to catch the particulates on the way in. So, there shouldn't be any sediment, but it could still be dealt with if necessary.