Dan Hatfield Ii

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since Jul 22, 2018
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forest garden wood heat woodworking
Australia Zone 10a
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Recent posts by Dan Hatfield Ii

Peter Sedgwick wrote:
After watching videos and researching I feel like the bell bench would be the best option. Not a whole lot of info out there that I can find. Really going on Matt's explanation and the Sundog rebuild video for the construction tips. I've got access to tons of reclaimed cinder blocks. Thinking of using those, filled with cob, for the walls of the chamber then cobbing over and plastering with the same material I use on the floor. Maybe use paving stones for the top of the bench depending on how cheap I can get them. Other option would be to hammer out pieces of drum can like he did in the Sundog video. If anyone has other ideas I'm more than interested.



Hi Peter,

You can find my videos from a recent bell build on my youtube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXqH6W1oen_2hWeTuhqKpcw/videos

Thanks
Dan
1 month ago
You should leave the hair/straw out on the last coat for sure. If you want to remove it now, just go over it with a small propane torch and it will burn away very easy.
If you want to try lime, you need to dry it out 200% and wait for any cracking to finish.
If you use hydrated lime I have a recipe.
If you want to make lime putty, you need to soak it now and leave it as long as possible. We are talking months ideally
1 month ago

Daniel Ray wrote:Wow, great build. Love Calearth and what they do to teach.

I'm going to reiterate Thomas and mention the importance of insulating under the burn chamber. My first build was similar and it eventually burnt away the cement beneath the burn chamber.

Dillon, i think you were referring to Thomas' mention of the stratification chamber rather than the double barrel initial bell technique show in my photo. Thomas prefers using bricks for the transition area.

The half barrel stratification method is using barrels cut in half lengthwise and used for the second bell of the system as demonstrated here http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/716


Sonny, if you do stick with the piped bench, remember to calculate the total distance with +5 feet for every 90 turn. If you use a lot of elbows you'll need to figure how many 90s you end up doing before the chimney which looks like it will be in a good spot near the barrel. You should clear the top of the structure by several feet.

If you are unsure about cutting your bricks for the octagon riser, you could do a square riser with corner pieces for the first half of the riser which is successful at giving my stove the "rams horns effect". I've included another photo of this.


Good luck! and post some photos.




Daniel, when you've added the corner pieces to your riser, do you take those into consideration in the CSA or ignore the CSA?
Do you feel it's a good addition?
Why do you only do it for half the riser?
Thanks
Dan
1 month ago

Staci Kopcha wrote:

Dan Hatfield Ii wrote:Hi Staci,

I used air separated fire clay that came from a ceramics place. I believe the stuff you may be able to get hold of is called "lincoln 60 fireclay"

I used the potter's fireclay without any issue.  
I havn't sealed it yet so it's dusty (but very hard)
I need to find something to seal with that will not change the colour.
Lindseed will darken it.



Hi Dan,
 I have been using Lincoln 60.  Not happily.
Erica Wisner (author of one of the RMH books) was speaking of Lincoln 60 and of another type of fire clay (more potters type)..maybe that is what you had?

You have dust- but does do you have sand sloughing off?

Just a tiny bit of dust comes off.
The clay I used is a local company and not lincoln 60. I did go on the lincoln 60 website and looked and the contents of the clay (silica etc. blah blah I have no clue) and the guy at my ceramics shop said they were the same thing kind of.
Mine worked fine.
Thanks
Dan

As for sealing, I have read (and planned to do it) that it can be rubbed with natural soap- glycerin type. I think you just rub the bar around on the plaster.  Wouldn't work on mine though- with the crumbles. ;)
Might be something to try...?

Staci

1 month ago

Staci Kopcha wrote:Update: I went straight to the "big guns" and asked Erica Wisner.
She suggested trying some wet pottery clay.
I will get some tomorrow and begin processing. And then back to batch tests,  phase 2.


When I went to collect my dried bagged clay from the pottery place, they had heaps of waste clay on a trolley.
I've heard Erica mention to ask for waste clay so maybe it's a fairly commen thing at pottery supplies???
Thanks
Dan
1 month ago

Satamax Antone wrote:Stacy, have you checked tadelakt?



I followed that link, that's a rabbit hole.
I'm thinking I may finish my heater off with a super thin lime render to seal it.
We used lime render on the building with like half a cup of portland added to each cement mixer load, just to harden it.
It worked well. There are hair line cracking in it now after 5 years but it's a very lightweight building that moves when you slam doors (or rather my 6 year old slams doors)
1 month ago
Hi Staci,

I used air separated fire clay that came from a ceramics place. I believe the stuff you may be able to get hold of is called "lincoln 60 fireclay"

I've used the builder's clay type (and I have some) which is cheaper (for us the builder's clay is about $16aud a bag vs $25 for the potter's stuff)
but I've only used it in places that cracking wouldnt be of an issue.
My friend used is for plastering and it failed and failed repeatedly.

I used the potter's fireclay without any issue. There was some minor hairline cracks which were more to do with me rushing to get the final coat on.
In the bench (where heat it much lower, there has been ZERO cracking of the plaster.
my recipe was 3 sand to 1 clay and 1 part dried grass (I used a grass called bana which is a hybrid of elephant grass and millet) for the base and omitted the grass for the final.

Where I did go wrong was not sifting the sand on the final coat. It was pre-screened sand but not enough for a final coat. I still have little chunks of stone in the plaster which (aesthetically are not an issue) but played hell with the trowel. I would end up dragging the stone across the plaster coat ruining what I'd done.

I havn't sealed it yet so it's dusty (but very hard)
I need to find something to seal with that will not change the colour.
Lindseed will darken it.


1 month ago

Staci Kopcha wrote:Hi Dan!
 I have't watch video or read details yet- looking forward to it.
The end product looks Awesome!!
Very "low profile" for a rmh!! Mine seems like a sloppy goliath in contrast. (earnestly working on plaster this weeked!)

Are you please with performance?
Staci



Hi Staci,
I was trying to get the modern look.
I’m still learning and my crappy brickwork made the plaster coat much harder.
Next time, I will get the brickwork perfect before plastering.

I was also trying to avoid the “giant toilet” look that, once you mentioned, I’d very hard to un-see 😐

It’s a good little heater.
It’s only about 2 tonne but does the job.

I built it in mind to moderate the temperatures in a lightweight structure.

It does not release heat quickly like a barrel but
We do not get super low temps here so it’s not such an issue.

Dan
1 month ago