kim tien

Jonathan 'yukkuri' Kame wrote:My 'early white' appears to be on second fruiting, even though it is a graft just done this February.  

This photo is from first fruiting, May 14, you can see the grafting tape at right.  Second fruit probably will be ripe this week, mid July.  Zone 9.

Hi Jonathan, could you tell me where i can get a plant of this variety of mulberry? i havent seen white mulberry that looks that big. looks beautiful. thank you!

Terri Pine wrote:As I understand it, red mulberries and white mulberries are both native and highly resistant to popcorn disease.  However, they hybridize vigorously, and the hybrids are supposed to be (mostly) susceptible to popcorn disease.  Also, a lot of nurseries sell hybrids without saying so.  I have a whole line of mulberries and would like to hear feedback on this topic.

i only read silk hope is resistant to popcorn disease compared to other morus alba varieties. do you have an update on your mulberries?

i grow several types of mulberries. im testing to see which has least dieback and disease for my PNW zone 8b.

potassium deficiency in plants

Bryant RedHawk - thank you for the advice since my peaches are potted i may have to clear some room in my garage to protect from frost.

my favorite tree is fig fruit tree.

pros
easy to grow
low maintence
can be grown in pots
so many varieties to chose from
can be reproduced with cuttings

cons
takes 3 years on average to get first from
birds and other animals seem to love them and harvest them much faster than i can
with the alluring choices of fig varieties it can become a fig addiction

some of my peaches seem to have flower buds, it is roughly one month early. my fruits ripen in mid june every year. I have other friends in other states, who peaches started to bloom now. Can you tell me if the flowers will get frost damage since it is flowering so early? Has this ever happen to with anyone growing peaches? Seems odd, so im not sure what to expect. Some of my peaches are still dormant, that is normal in comparison.

Dan Boone thank you for clarifying. This is the first year my persimmons experience frost. They are usually ripe and ready to be picked before the frost here in PNW. And right after frost they ripen soften there is no astigency left, but they also had frost damage. I would pick before frost if possible to keep qaulity good.

if cooking can change the astigency of persimmon. it may be more suitable to use non astrigent persimmon. they will be non astigent nonmatter what. here in PNW a light frost removed astrigency from persimmons. a quick freeze in freezer before cooking with astrigent perismmon may help. im not  a baker but i would love to see others experiment.

you can try growingfruit.org forum post a trade tread.

i grow pawpaw in pots in PNW they fruited for me.
for seedling that size you are describing as mention shoulf be brought inside the first few years. under 3 year old should be indoors. as well as in partial shade and not in full sun the they sensative to sunburn. the chill requirment is for fruiting. i think you can try growing your pawpaws in large pots to test and trail to see if they do well under the large trees you mention. there will be a difference in when they ripen when under partial sun rather than full sun. here this summer fall has been cool and my pawpaw ripen in late october. with better summer it should ripen early october. i would make sure they ripen in a good timeframe before planting in ground. once planted they dont like to be transfers their tap roots are sensative to transplanting.