Randy Butler

My sister and our Mum were fanatics - for Christmas gifts, the only puzzles that were worth their time were the ones with the same picture printed on the front and back!  
It was either that, or we had to mix all the pieces of multiple puzzles into the same box.
Yes, one might call them competitive! But they sure loved the challenge!

What I find online for the prices seems a tad steep.
I paid 6 bucks for a piece 1/4x12x24. Much of what I saw in eBay was closer to $20/SF.
Now I'm no rocket scientist (oh, does rocket mass heatering count?), but my math isn't terrible.
Maybe I should post my local shop contact info?

Good Day Thomas (and all the other RMHers). And happy thanksgiving to all.

I can't find a ready source of thin Superwool here in Maine, but the local refractory outfit did have some "ceramic paper" with comparable temps.

Seemed to be a good option, so I bought a 1x2 foot chunk and plan to cut into strips (brick width) to test.

I went with the 1/8" thick, although they had 1/4" and 1/16" as well.

Now my question - do I lay the "gasket" strip along the horizontal seams only, or should I wrap top edge and both ends of each brick to ensure a tight seal?

Thanks!
Randy

You know how you start a garden (or inherit one from parents) and you can't bring yourself to cut back on the crops that have been there for decades?  My BIL has one of those and he is used to feeding his kids and their families. But the kids now have their own gardens, so the surplus goes to the rest of the family. Don't get me wrong, we truly appreciate it - but when you receive 5 dozen pie pumpkins, it rapidly changes what you thought you were going to get accomplished this week!

So I'm up to my ears in pie pumpkin - we wash, gut and bake them before mashing the flesh and freezing in pints. Just the right amount for a pumpkin pie (wife's favorite breakfast!)

You can imagine there are more than a few seeds left over from this process, but I haven't figured out an efficient means to strip the seeds from the fibrous innards. Squeezing them out of the "guts" by hand tends to leave a bunch of escapees on the floor throughout the kitchen. And I'm not trying to salvage all of them (shame on me), but I'm rather inundated!

Any suggestions?

Good Morning Thomas

Are you running the FB laid on edge or on face?

Any more thoughts or discussion on dry laid FB, dry laid with Superwool or Ceramic Paper, or clay slip for the firebox core?

Thanks for the insight,
Randy

Hi Benjamin -

no worries on the thread diversion. Of course all you really did was to beat me to the question! So, Thank You!

Peter and Thomas -

Thank you both so much. Now to elaborate on the questions.

The riser is really close to 6" octagonal, although a bit skewed in a couple places.
This is intended to be a trial, knowing I need to be more precise in the final construction.
And the riser looks really large because I put a second layer of IFB all around.
I ran the height to excess, only because I got no roar.  Very easy fix.

I'm not sure if it's an "across the pond" consideration, but I have read a lot about building the core dry-laid, allowing for easy repairs.
I'd love to hear discussions on the clay slip vs dry-laid opinions.

The standards I see for the 6" system indicate roughly 7 SI Total Air Intake with 1.4 SI of that in the secondary.
On Matt Walker's design, he noted a better burn with secondary being just over half of Total Air Intake.
Could that be due to his "riserless" build?

And I do plan on a door, I just haven't built it yet, so I attempted to simulate it with the IFB.

This is such a great place for education and information exchange. Thanks to the contributors and administrators for all their efforts!

The stub for my secondary is unconventional, but it is stainless!

Thank you Thomas, and yes that is my secondary air tube.
BUT, the stub comes from a truck exhaust pipe, so the top of it is bent and sits right close to the port.
I was wondering - maybe it is too close?