Alley Bate

It's been my experience that ok ratchets can withstand a snipe better than cheap breaker bars, a 200 lb gorrilla on the end of a snipe beats pretty much any impact wrench 3/4" or smaller, only a hammer wrench and a 3+ lbs hammer beats the gorilla with snipe.

A little air tool oil can make a big difference in how hard an impact hits, air hose size could be a limiting factor also.

Even with the little compressor you should get a few good Dugga Duggas out of your impact

A few heatings with a torch can help, some copper kote or never seize on hand to save you or the next guy next time :)

Plenty available for real cheap on aliexpress, gearbest, banggood, wish and so on.

Jack Slaggert wrote: As wood ash is radially available and costless

You might want to try experimenting with the locally available wood ash, wetting it and forming can form a geopolymer that will harden to a ceramic with relatively low heat  You could make insinuative material by foaming or adding sawdust that will burn out and leave voids.

Keep in mind that you either want to make out of brick shapes or casting multiple pieces otherwise a monolithic casting will likely crack in places where you don't want it to, due to wide temperature differences and expansion rates through the rocket core.

Here is a video from the awesome Primitive Technology youtube channel where he makes a pot from woodash.

Wow, that's 1/10th the price of regular hard firebrick up here in Canada.

The problem with using something ceramic is not that it cant handle the heat, it's that it can't handle differntial heating. Some parts will be hotter than others and expand at a different rate. If you are lucky it will crack, unlucky it'll explode.

When I dug my pond the earth was mostly clay mixed with stones and gravel, with horizontal seams of sandy gravel. I didn't have enough time with the excavator to pull away the spoils but that worked out in my favor. The first rains drained away through the lowest sandy gravel seam but it got progressively better as the rains washed more clay into the bottom of the pond which plugged off the seams.

Shouldn't be a problem so long as the amperage (not total wattage) rating of the fixture isn't exceeded by the 120v bulb.

For instance, a 1000W bulb @ 120v draws 8.3'ish amps which would be too much for a 220v fixture with a maximum amperage of 4.5'ish but still rated for 1000W 220v.

Looks like e26 and e27 are for the most part mechanically compatable, the main thing is to correctly match your bulb voltage to your line voltage. Putting a 110v North American standard bulb on a European standard 220v circuit will likely end badly.

https://www.waveformlighting.com/home-residential/e26-vs-e27-bulbs-are-they-interchangeable

Adam Savage did a "Tested" episide making workbench task lighting with some led video lights that may be along the lines what may work for you. You can adjust colour temp as well as brightness.

Nice thing about composing shots indoors is you can work tethered and get instant feedback on a monitor



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZLM3QC/

You will probably find that you need sand or other fillers/aggregate mixed with your clay to minimize cracking. It probably would be a good idea to pre-score lines for it to crack without being destructive to the piece, otherwise if it is monolithic it will crack probably where it will cause a structural or leaky problem.