Leron Bouma

Your compost or worm tea should not smell bad, that is a sign that it is anaerobic. The main benefits of compost/worm tea comes from the aerobic microorganisms that are reproducing at an astronomical rate. Doubling every seven minutes is what I've heard. Get a cheap aquarium pump and an airstone and some aquarium tubing to fit the pump and airstone. Put your compost into a paint strainer bag and tie up the top. Fill your water container to near the top, I use a five gallon bucket. Pour in an ounce or two of blackstrap molasses. (Food for the microoganisms.) Toss in the airstone and plug in the pump. The worm leachate tea that I make with this method never stinks. If you were using raw manure or minimally composted manure it might stink. If I can't get to the tea in 24 hours I just add a bit more molasses and use it the next day. I think you can likely find a used aquarium pump for cheap at a second hand store. I think that the pump, airstone and tubing cost me about $14 at walmart.

The podcast only runs for 18 minutes and cuts off after talking about using Paul's stuff. So most of the stuff on the list is not included.

Culturesforhealth.com I have no personal experience with this company, just from my bookmarks.

Sorry John,
I guess I'll have to stop using that howtosaveseeds.com web site.

From howtosaveseeds.com

Peppers
Capsicum spp.
Self- or insect-pollinated, pepper varieties of the same species will cross-pollinate. There is no crossing between varieties of different species, however. You can safely grow one hot or sweet pepper (C. annuum) and one Tabasco pepper (C. frutescens) without danger of their crossing.

Peppers within the same species can be safely isolated by 500 feet of separation, or they can be caged since the plants are not overly large. Allow peppers to ripen and dry fully on the plants before harvesting the pods. Wash your hands thoroughly with soapy water after harvesting hot pepper seeds, since the residues will burn eyes and lips for some time after contact!

Pepper seeds will keep for 2 or 3 years if properly stored.

Russian Olive
Mountain Mahogany (Cercocarpus spp.)
Siberian Seaberry or sea buckthorn (hippofae)
Not a tree but a nitrogen fixer and medicinal herb; mongolian astragalus (astragalus mongholicus).

I've found that red compost worms can live on a nearly one hundred percent carbon diet. Most people new to vermicomposting mess it up by giving too much nitrogen to their pets.

My interest in this topic comes from the fact that I have grown sprouts for my own consumption for decades and I definitely feel the benefits of eating sprouted greens. I have found a bunch of web sites with good information about fodder for livestock.
Here's one from Australia about raising rabbits using a commercial fodder system: http://hydroponics.com.au/free-articles/issue114-rabbits-rabbits-everywhere-rabbits/
Here's one from an US alpaca ranch using a home made fodder system: http://pacapride.wordpress.com/2012/11/27/barley-fodder-from-trials-to-production/
There are a couple other pages at the Pacapride site that are very interesting: http://pacapride.wordpress.com/2012/06/08/barley-fodder-sprouting-trials-continued-new-flood-and-drain-tray-system-installed/
This system gives me some ideas; I like the flood and drain system and notice that the fodder doesn't need anymore light than one cfl per row.

Here is an article I found recently about feeding fodder to rabbits: http://hydroponics.com.au/free-articles/issue114-rabbits-rabbits-everywhere-rabbits/

In order to extend the grain that you feed your chickens you can sprout it and grow it into fodder. There are a lot of very expensive commercial systems out there as well as a lot of do it yourselfers working with regular nursery flats. A YouTube search for "fodder for chickens" will give you many ideas about different people's grow systems.
One pound of grain turns into up to six pounds of fodder that is more bioavailable to your hens.