Satamax Antone

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since Sep 24, 2011
Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft high Southern alpine climate.
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Recent posts by Satamax Antone

Jordan Gonzales wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan;   The problem with a masonry stove and a traveling tiny house , is cracking...They are built with clay as mortar not cement.   I suspect that it could travel infrequently if driven carefully,. But ultimately I think any masonry would crack out on you.    That said, it is just my opinion...  with care it could travel just fine for years …
Matts designs are state of the art and just dang good looking to boot! I can see why you would like one!



I guess that's my question. Is there a way to design one to be suitable for my needs? Are there sturdier construction options?

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan;
  No matter what you use it will be a gamble about cracking.
The only thing that might hold up is true refractory cement (not cheap , fire clay $7.00 a bag, refractory cement $70-100 a bag...)  I'm sure it would do better than a clay mortar but you would want to dive very carefully AND I would keep materials on hand to repair if necessary.

I hate to even say this (being a huge RMH proponent)  but … if your moving your house frequently, than a small cast iron (metal) stove might be a better choice to start with.


At some point in the future you may find your mobile house is less mobile and you might feel safer building a masonry stove.



Myself, i see a solution.


Minnie mouse, X2




http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/2368/peter-bergs-minnie-mouse-houses

Well, in the following thread, you see the metal "home heating fuel tanks" that i use. I bet there is aplenty of tanks like this everywhere in the world.

https://permies.com/t/44806/Cobbling-workshop-heater

Find yourself one of the right size for your vehicle. Line the walls with dry stacked bricks. And hold there in place with rebar grid, like the concrete floor reinforcements. Or even with tacked steel plate. Then, you can drive at whatever spped you want. The bricks will move slightly, but never fall!  Same treatement for the "burner" made out of a metal casing, heavy bricks and a five minute riser. That would be hard to break! And will keep it's air tightness.

4 days ago
293m², and about 700m3 (a bit more actually)

I would advise at least a 10/12 inch batch. And a good two more tons of mass.
6 days ago
Well Samuel. That's right up my alley.

First, we need to know what is the size of the house. To see if 7" would be enough.

Secondly, is it possible to remove the terracotta liners?  What is between the liners and the bricks?

The brick chimney itself can become the mass. If the heating is baseboard electric, i wouldn't insulate the bottom of the bell from it. It can cope with heat.

Thirdly, yep, you can make metal bells. A barrel is pretty much that (well, more of a downdraft channel radiator)

But i live with a metal bell.

https://permies.com/t/44806/Cobbling-workshop-heater

Read the whole thread. THis is work in progress.

1 week ago
Jay, my answer to the same problem as yours,

https://permies.com/t/44806/Cobbling-workshop-heater


I wouldn't do it this way exactly now, as i cook often at the same time as i work. So the "makeshift" oven, would be a proper one now.

Except to this,  i wouldn't change much. It works as needed. Only prob i get, is in spring, when it's colder inside than outside, and it's been off for a few days. It smokes back.

For wood scraps, top load is better.  So my big cooking plate would be hinged.  
3 weeks ago

Michael Solosky wrote:I raised the barrel to make a 2-1/4" height above the chimney riser. I think it was too low before and choking out the fire.  



This is not enough in my opinion. Others might disagree.

But 8 x PI x 2.25 = 56,54 sqin.

8² x PI /4 =50,26 sqin. Not enough "clearance" between the two numbers.

Top gap should be at least 1.5 CSA.

http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/1406/calculating-ring-circumference-projection-gap



Michael Solosky wrote: The exhaust exits through a 6" hole cut through a foundation block. It then goes into a short insulated piece of pipe (30") and out a short chimney ( 36") with a rotating cowl on it to reduce the down draft.



Wrong! You need a proper chimney.



Michael Solosky wrote: The chimney inside the barrel has a diameter of 8 inches. The ducts are all 6 inch.





And wrong again, sorry!  This you could may be get by, with a proper insulated chimney.
1 month ago
I merged your stuff with the following thread. I hope that is okay by you.
1 month ago

Michael Solosky wrote:Thanks for your kind words, and thoughts. i'll be posting more pics in a few minutes. In the mean time I'll start my own thread.



Nope, no need to start another thread.  It's been already done by staff.



This is plainly wrong.  The  plenum you have made is way  too small.


https://permies.com/t/61657/Flue-exhaust-transition-plenum-pictures
1 month ago