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Satamax Antone

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since Sep 24, 2011
Southern alps, on the French side of the french /italian border 5000ft high Southern alpine climate.
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Recent posts by Satamax Antone

Benen Huntley wrote:If I use 1 inch super wool then the diameter is much too large in the riser.
Haha yes, I'll use sketch up to draw the bell in place to show what I mean.



Doesn't mater if the heat riser is too large.
1 hour ago
Benen, i reply here, easier for me.

Keep your fivce minute riser, but use 1 inch superwool.  That will be the easier solution.

About the plunger tube.  Get your sketchup out, i understand fcuk all!
8 hours ago
Benen, the gap is the distance between heat riser and the flue's edge.

So if i get it correctly, 7 inches.

Tho, you have a restriction, in the  2 inches at the bottom. That means that only the two sides and the top of the flue's edge have plenty of space. Nothing much to worry about mind you. In fluid mechanics  it is often said that the boundary layer, between stalling against the pipe's wall, and full speed is about 3cm. So gases in your 5 incher have only a tube at the middle, of 56mm, to go at fulle speed. Well, this is all verry theoretical. Since hot gases behave differently depending on their temperature.

I would try running it with  two or three times the recommended air intake size, at first. And if it still pulses (oh yeah! :D )  i would enlarge that flue entrance.
2 days ago

Benen Huntley wrote:What was it then? I think I might just stuff super wool down the sides actually, since I already have it



Huh, don't know! Can't remember. I line fireboxes with rockwool, vermiculite, perlite, or a mix of the two. Or air entrained concrete also.
2 days ago

Benen Huntley wrote:This morning I made the decision to remove a lot of mass from the fire box. I've split all bricks which leaves plenty of room to line the inside of the metal box with ceramic board to get the thing up to temp much much faster.
I believe I saw Satamax use this technique in a build a while ago.



Huh, may be, but it wasn't ceramic board, that's for sure!
2 days ago
First of all, read this. May be it can shed some light.   http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/1406/calculating-ring-circumference-projection-gap

I have very little to add to what Peter said.

Remember, that my stoves haven't ever been testo tested.  

But i like to run the primary air a bit bigger than Peter's recommended values.  
2 days ago
Jim, too much mass under the dura board, which is not insulative.

Best way, use insulating firebricks.  Or even better superwool board.  Or vermiculite board, under those bricks.  You coule get by with rigidized rockwool/roxul, with your dura board on top, for example.
3 weeks ago
Alex's one

http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/1973/8-215mm-double-bells-built?page=6

Worth reading the whole thread.


Mine, heating the two floors, with barely any insulation, 5000ft elevation, in the french alps.

https://permies.com/t/44806/Cobbling-workshop-heater

635m3
3 weeks ago

Satamax Antone wrote:




Delta T, the temperature differential  between intake air and exhaust air is far greater in the winter,  and  far smaller in the summer. Hence the sluggish performance for the moment. Even more in a tent.
4 weeks ago