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What to do with cedars with cedar apple rust

 
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hi all.  We have apple trees and last year saw symptoms of cedar apple rust.  We have a lot of cedars as well and after examining them have found some cedar apple rust galls and possibly some quince rust spots on some of the branches.    We are pruning and taking down some of them and my question is whether the galls and rust spots will persist if we shred them or is it better just to burn them.  Anyone have thoughts on this?
 
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I fought with cedar apple rust at my previous property (which gained a toehold through my ignorance at the time). Personally, I would burn any trimmed branches.
 
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I live where there are cedar trees everywhere.

I could not find the cedars with the rust so I don't know if they were on my property or on my neighbors' property.

We choose to get out of the fruit tree business after getting rid of one only to have a problem with the next tree.
 
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You will never (sorry) be able to fight cedar apple rust out of your local cedar trees to the point of having any positive effect on apple trees. If you want apples then they have to be varieties with rust resistance.
I say this because even if you get rid of all the cedar on your property, they're still going to be around on neighboring properties. And if yours had cedar apple rust, those likely do too.
 
Douglas Alpenstock
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Matt Todd wrote:You will never (sorry) be able to fight cedar apple rust out of your local cedar trees to the point of having any positive effect on apple trees. If you want apples then they have to be varieties with rust resistance.
I say this because even if you get rid of all the cedar on your property, they're still going to be around on neighboring properties. And if yours had cedar apple rust, those likely do too.


Eliminate completely? No, not if it's endemic to the area.

However, the resources I pulled up re this thread indicated that the high risk of infection happened in a fairly small zone. It dropped off substantially with distance. (I'll try to find the resource and post a link.)

Still, I agree, it's a game of whack-a-mole. Or cat and mouse. You have to be on top of it. And the close cedars that are infected have to go.

How much work would be involved in creating a "no cedar" buffer zone?

EDIT:
It seems there is a range of opinion regarding the distance the rust spores will travel in high concentrations. The more optimistic  sources say a few hundred yards against the prevailing wind and at least 1 mile upwind. So local control may or may not be effective. Personally, that woudn't stop me from trying though.
 
Steven L Williams
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Thanks for all the replies.  As to my main question, it looks like I should burn the cedar instead of chipping.  I don't know if there is a definitive source of information on survivability of the fungus but I won't take the chance.  Regarding the apples in general, fortunately we aren't growing them to sell so even partial success will be ok.  We have some resistant varieties and some susceptible varieties so we will see what happens.  We've overplanted so even a poor result may provide enough for our own use.   When buying more trees, rust resistance will be the main consideration.
 
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