Mike Bettis wrote:Thanks for the replies. I guess no one is using it as backup as I'm understanding? My hope was in times of outages I can run a small turbine to run a few electrical devices. My plan would be to put a switch at my main lines from the transformer. So this would not be grid tied. But as you said they need resistance? Hmm I haven't heard of that but I've also never had any experience with wind generators.
No, you just don't understand. A wind generator is not a device you just plug things into and expect to have them to run. First, there needs to be substantial wind. Not a light breeze ruffling the leaves, but wind that pulls your hat off your head. Because the windmill is a variable speed generator, based on the speed of the wind, that means the power produced is going to vary in voltage. It might be running at 12V, or 30V, but it will not, and can not make continous 120VAC that everything in your house consumes. For that you MUST have a battery bank and an inverter. And a charge controller that can take the varying voltage output from the windmill generator, and convert it into charging current for your batteries. No way around that.
But, as others have indicated, you can right now today, put together a solar system that can accomplish what you want it to do. The very first thing you need to do is to itemize your loads and calculate just how much power you need to make. You made a partial list, being lights, fans, and a frig. The very first thing you need to understand is that the power required varies with orders of magnitude. That is, a light might need 7-25W to light, a fan, maybe 100-150W to run, and a frig maybe 1.0 to 1.5 kWh to stay on 24/7. You may express this in watthours (Wh), or kilowatt hours (kWh). So, one 25W compact flourescent
light bulb might consume 100Wh if you left it on for four hours, or 0.1kWh, depending on what units you want to use. The fan that runs on 100 Watts will consume 500Wh if left on for five hours (0.5kWh). My 18cuft refrigerator/freezer consumes ~1.2kWh per 24 hours.
Just to speed this along, let's itemize a few things for you. You can update the numbers yourself to customize for your own lifestyle.
Two
CFL bulbs on for 4 hours: 25W X 2 bulbs X 4 hours = 200Wh (0.2kWh)
One 100W window fan on for 5 hours: 100W X 1 fan X 5 hours = 500Wh (0.5kWh)
One 50W TV/Computer on for two hours: 50W X 2hours = 100Wh (0.1kWh)
One standard AC refrigerator running on and off = 1.2kWh per day
AC inverter left on, consuming 30W per hour: 30W X 24 hours = 720Wh (0.72kWh)
This all adds up to 2.0kWh per day. This reflects closely to what I've seen with my own off-grid system. Lowest I've ever seen in winter with the frig cycling very little and zero lights or TV was 1.5kWh. Today, with Starlink internet, and all the little electrical loads like the stove clock, weather station, and whatnot, I'm at about 4.0kWh.
So, how will you make at least 2.0kWh of power? Solar will do that, assuming you have sunny days. In Illinois in December, I'd suspect you get about 3 sunhours worth of power, and maybe 6 sunhours in June. So, to make at least 2.0kWh of power in the winter, you'd need 2000Wh/3 sunhours = 666Watts of solar panels. 250W, 30V rooftop residential panels are dirt-cheap right now, so you could make a functional system with three of those. Four or six panels would be even better, but three will make it work.
You'll need batteries to store the power you make. Remember, even a windmill only system will need batteries. I'd go with at least a 24V battery bank. You can get 210Ah, 6V golf-cart batteries at CostCo right now for ~110$ each. Wire four of them in series to get a 24V battery bank.
Next you need a charge controller to convert the raw solar DC into battery charging current. You
should get a MPPT charge controller. An MPPT controller acts like a transformer, taking raw high-voltage DC current from the panels, and transforming down to battery-charging voltage. The extra volts gets transformed into extra charging amps. You would wire all three panels in series to make ~8.3A at 90V, so select a controller that can handle 150V. Don't ask why you can't use a 100V controller. That can be explained later (cold temperature Voc). Take a look at Epever's Triron4215N controller.
Lastly, an inverter. Lots of choice here, but if you want to run a frig, make sure you select a pure sine wave inverter. MSW or SW inverters make motors run hot and will quickly burn them out. They are only good for resistive loads like traditional filament lights and such. Samlex makes a quality UL-list model, the PST-2000, that would work well for you. The frig, having an electric motor, will have starting surge that is higher than the running watts it is rated for.
Remember, with electronics, you get what you pay for. Cheap overseas inverters are made with bottom rung budget parts that might barely make it through the warranty year. Whatever you buy, make sure it is UL-listed. You should be able to make a functional system that will work for you for ~1500$.