I have come to favoring the microwave. chopping them to small pieces and placing fatty meat on top they takeup the fat and juice which makes the nutrients of both more absorbable. My problem is my favorites are also deer favorites. Don't forget to garnish with the blossoms; hollyhocks and evening primrose are my favorites.
Yes deer browse on a schedule to avoid being seen. They remove leaves below 7 feet. I took a permaculture approach. My vines at trained on a wire 8 feet high above a 4 foot fence. The deer prune the excessive growth for me and don't jump over. I get good production on vines over 5 years old though many of them are 50 to 100 years old and 100 feet long.
Under tinkering with this site there is a thread about when a new member signs up or a new log in it does not return to the original page. This was frustrating one of Paul's campaigns. This seems never to have been resolved.
There seems to be an aggressive campaign with security updates to cancel log in settings and require multiple devices to log back in. At least permies has not gone that far. It would be helpful if those code ranch hands could figure out how to return to the page one logs in from.
Corms were planted in sand on compost on 12 inch deep wicking bed that runs the length of front. Ring was topped with leaves when planted in January. Tops froze in hard freeze in December and tubers harvested.
Leaves drupe in heat but refresh over night from the wicking reservoir.
Fig to the left will be moving to the right where the heat storage barrel and seed starting rack is to a larger wicking barrel.
One member of or food Co op offered them one year and I discovered that the sweet taste was good for diabetics because it doesn't digest into glucose. During the winter he decided not to grow them again so he sold the Corms. The part you eat is the energy storage tuber. In between will be one or more corms which will sprout in the spring. So this is a case of eating your cake and having it too. In fact the first year rodents ate all the storage roots but not the corms. So I brought them into the greenhouse and planned them with my winter potatoes. The corms will grow without the storage roots but if a small one is left attached it gives them a boost. They do well in the summer heat of the greenhouse.
Alder is a natural cover crop that can come up as thick as grass where it is native. In North Maine I was describing how we would log alder for furniture like they did birch. He could not believe it but there it could only grow from May to September while here it grows from February to November so some become dominant before others shade them out. Scotch Broom was imported here initially to an area indigenously maintained as prairie where it out preformed alder and now competes with it through out the area.
If you are cultivating and weeding an area consider their utility for your circumstances. If you neglect the area Himalayan black berries may shade them both out.
It is hard for me to answer because here carrots drop there seeds about now and grow over winter. As long as they don't try to go to seed they can stay in the ground until the color is in danger of being frozen.
So yes planting counting back from first hard freeze date the days to maturity gives the best sugar content before storage.
I have been fallowing some families in rural Viet Nam that make stools or chairs just high enough to support them in a squatting position. From a muscular skeletal perspective this is healthy. Ideally when working while sitting 1/3 of your weight should be on each foot. This allows the movement of the arms and head to be supported by the ground force instead of putting strain on the pelvis and low back.
Ebo David wrote:@Hans, with the white bags, have you ever tried burning the edges to melt the threads together? The seed bags are better, but I think the other ones might work with a little prep.
Sorry but the video was not mine
my method is to tamp the c.har through a screen ov hardware cloth
