Jamie Chevalier

pollinator
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since Nov 12, 2015
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Recent posts by Jamie Chevalier

You can do any amount of cooking (for someone who can't take fiber) and then chill the results to serve as a salad.

The other thing you can do with long-cooked vegetables is to mash them, so that instead of them being a mushy version of the raw vegetable, they are a delightfully soft (and even spreadable) version that accepts flavors like cheese, cream, butter--or alternatively, soy/ginger, or olive oil/basil/dab of tomato paste--and becomes a treat instead of a grade-school cafeteria horror.

Last night I did this with zucchini: cooked until very soft, mashed roughly with a wire masher, then stirred in a bit of olive oil (in this case with some garlic, but not necessary) parmesan and fresh basil. With green beans I could imagine cooking it a long time with a potato or two and a bit of bacon, or ham, then mashing it all into a gloriously yummy mess.
2 days ago
Often with canned veg, it's reheating them that makes them so nasty.

Try turning them out of the jar, draining them, and marinating in vinaigrette. Or just drain the liquid from the jar as best you can, add marinade, salad dressing, or pickling liquid, and put the jar in the fridge for a day. I bet the kids will be sneaking the "pickled" ones pretty quick

Or add to a salad--either the standard tossed green or something like tabouleh or pasta salad. Serving chilled firms them up, as does a  salty dressing.
2 days ago
Thank you, Thekla.
It's super important for anyone considering canning to know that botulism doesn't make the food smell or taste bad and doesn't upset your stomach. It paralyses your lungs so you suffocate.

Also, last time I checked, the majority of botulism deaths in the US were fron green beans.

The test-strip idea is not far-fetched. The entire jar needs to be strongly acidic for botulism to be unable to grow in it. Not just the liquid, but the center of the beans as well. People have even gotten botulism from tomatoes, when they were low-acid types, or were overripe and their acid content had fallen. Or there were too many low-acid additions like peppers or onions.

Because botulism is rare, the fact that people have used a method and lived doesn't prove that method is safe--there may have been no spores in the jar to start with.

The food scientists I've talked to say there may well be safe combinations of time and boiling water. But the times are extremely long, 8 - 12 hours in some cases, During that time, the water must stay at a full rolling boil, uncovered. Evaporation is a problem. And it's not realistic to count on people's attention being that constant. So labs have not developed safety tables for water-bath canning low-acid foods.

In the absence of tested times and procedures, you're gambling whether Granny's recipes had adequate safety procedures--or whether perhaps the botulism spores never happened to be present.

2 days ago
There are hundreds--thousands in some countries--of native bees. Some have long tongues, and some have short tongues. Of course, the smaller, shallower  flowers suit both. All pollinators have an easy time with umbell flowers, which have umbrella-like flower clusters, with many small flowers in a flat cluster. Yarrow, carrots, parsley, and cilantro are all members of that family.

A wide variety of bees and beneficial insects are attracted to these, and butterflies also appreciate the flat secure landing space. I always suggest yarrow as a perennial and cilantro as a quick-blooming annual. Alyssum is another suitable flower, and attracts predator insects that eat thrips, mites, and other small pests.

Cruciferous flowers, the cabbage family, are also bee favorites. Perennial arugula attracts so many bees that you can hear them across the garden. Kale and othe brassicas that bolt to flower are bee magnets as well.Phacelia tanecetifolia "Bee's Friend" is similar.
3 weeks ago
Re: using indigenous plants.
Know what kind of ecosystem you're in. California, where I live, and much of the Mediterranean are fire-dependent or fire-climax ecosystems. That means they evolved over millennia with fire as the main disturbance or regenerator of the landscape.

That means the plants have evolved to use fire to regenerate their species. Sometimes that means surviving fire, but more often it means burning very rapidly, with seeds that require high temperatures for dispersal (like pines with their cones closed tight until fire opens them and releases the seeds.) Or with roots that resprout readily after fire, or with seeds that require alkaline ash to germinate. The maquis of France, the chapparal of California, and the cork oak woodlands of Spain are such fire-adapted ecosystems. So while cork oaks and redwoods grow fire-resistant bark to protect themselves, smaller, shorter-lived species like rosemary, manzanita, and sage explode into flame, fed by the resins and oils in their leaves. Most broadleaf evergreens in dry-summer climates burn readily. The same waxes and oils that protect them from losing water to evaporation in a dry landscape act as fuel for the flames.

As someone else said, decidulous small trees are much more  resistant. I remember in the fire that burned large parts of Santa Rosa, California a few years ago, deciduous street trees often survived. It was an eerie sight to see a Trader Joe's store burnt into a mass of twisted steel and crumbled masonry while next to it a tree was putting out new greenery to replace what the fire had scorched.
1 month ago
Rather than suggesting specific plants, I think the best advice is to talk to a local experts about local or easily-bought-in-bulk plants for that niche in your particular area. Ask the county ag department about plants for very poor soil. They will probably direct you to something like meliot (sweetclover) which has naturalized on a sandbar near me.

Best of all, contact a university botanist, conservation organization, forester, etc and ask about "pioneer plants" for your area.  That's the ecological niche we're talking about--plants that can grow in poor soil, and whose presence gradually makes the soil hospitable for other species that need more fertility, better texture, etc. Many of these are nitrogen fixers, like lupines and trefoils, but they will be in association with grasses and other plants too. Gradually, as the nitrogen fixers do their work, and the pioneer plants shed leaves, die, or experience seasonal root dieback, the soil gets enough richer that other plants can out-compete the pioneers, and they disappear. A classic example is lupine or clover giving way to grasses. It's sometimes referred to as "self toxicity" but it's not that the pioneers poison themselves, it's that their competitive edge was their abilty to use poorer sites. Once the site is no longer so poor, other plants will out-compete them.

Pioneers will vary greatly depending on the availability of moisture, the soil texture, soil pH, absence or overabundance of specific minerals (like the serpentine soils of California, with near-toxic levels of magnesium and their own specially-adapted plants.) So there's no point telling you what to grow--your soil and climate will do that.
1 month ago
Whether fennel is perennial for you depends on location, and on the strain. Varieties that are bred for the large edible stem base ("bulb") are more annual, though some older heirlooms have perennializing tendencies https://www.quailseeds.com/store/p553/Selma_Fino_Fennel.html More might be found to survive the winter if you can master the trick of where to cut when you harvest the bulbing types. Too low and the crown is killed, too high and the "bulb" falls apart. Harvesting stem-by-stem would give the plant a chance to show whether it can overwinter or not.

Usually the reason you see bronze fennel listed as a perennial and the others as annuals is that they are bulbing types--it's the non-bulbing, wilder plant that is perennial, whether it's tinted bronze or green. It dies back to the root and re-sprouts in spring in my zone. I suspect that the determining factor in whether it survives the winter is whether the ground freezes or not, but that's conjecture.
2 months ago
This is something that I have looked into before, and found a fairly definitive explanation.
Fennel, like many other plants in the parsley/carrot family, originated in summer-dry climates. In order to prevent the seeds from sprouting when there is not enough water for the plants to get well-established before the soil dries, their seeds are coated with natural germination inhibitors. Ever wonder why carrots and parsnips take so long to germinate? It's because the inhibitors must be washed off or biodegraded before the seed can sprout. If you soak and rinse them, they sprout much faster. In germination testing, seed companies routinely soak these seeds before trying to sprout them. In nature, the equivalent of soaking and rinsing is heavy rainfall or seasonal flooding.

Planting a few fennel seeds has little or no effect on neighboring plants. Nor does the presence of the plant itself poison other plants nearby (unlike black walnuts or wormwood, which both secrete poisons from their roots and foliage.) However, unlike carrots and parsnips, fennel is often grown to full maturity and allowed to set seed, which it does prolifically. It also can be perennial in mild climates, and turn into large plants that produce thousands of seeds year after year in the same location. A shower of fennel seeds can leach enough inhibitors into the soil to produce an effect on the germination of crops planted nearby.

You can remove the flower stalks as they start to form (and use them while soft and immature as a vegetable, as is done in Italy) or you can clip the seedheads before the seeds start to fall. Or you can grow fennel among other perennials, since existing plants are unlikely to be affected. I don't know about transplanting crop seedlings into soil where lots of fennel seed has fallen. I doubt that it would do more than slow them slightly; that's a topic for experiment. But as long as you realize that the culprit is a chemical that's found on the surface of the seeds, that the seeds need to be in the soil in fairly large quantities to have an effect, and that the poison is water-soluble, you have the tools to cope with it.

Interestingly, grasses (and other monocots like onions and lilies) tend to be immune to the inhibiting effect of this type of compound. So in climates like mine where fennel is an invasive weed along the roadside, you will see grasses around it, but not most wildflowers, which like many other broadleaf plants, are more sensitive to germination-inhibiting compounds. (Grasses and onions are even immune to juglone, and can grow directly under black walnut trees.)
2 months ago
Perennial Arugula, Diplotaxis tenuifolia, is a wild green from Mediterranean climates that is extremely deep-rooted and drought-tolerant. It's so easy to grow that it is more or less self-tending, even on rocky banks and other less-fertile places, and it volunteers often enough outside of the garden beds that we don't need to worry about sowing it anymore. https://www.quailseeds.com/store/p295/Perennial_Arugula%2C_Rucola_selvatica%2C_Wild_Rocket_%22Sylvetta.html Of course it's lusher when there's water or nutrients, and we have massive clumps around our compost piles and near the chicken run. I've discovered that it's good cooked in pasta and soups, so I get a lot of use out of something I don't really have to tend.

Perpetual Spinach is  easy to grow, and higher-yielding than other leafy greens like kale. It's a type of chard that is milder-flavored, more tender, and more resistant to both heat and cold than regular "Swiss" type chard. Unlike many other perennials, it's also easy and quick to sprout, about the same as regular annual chard. The leaves regrow so quickly after picking that I find I get more meals per square foot than I do from other veg. https://www.quailseeds.com/store/p9/Perpetual_Spinach_%28Leafbeet%29_Chard.html


Collards are also extremely easy in my climate, and the Old Timey Blue variety has proven perennial for me as well as providing food both summer and winter. https://www.quailseeds.com/store/p337/Old-Timey_Blue_Collards.html