Sebastian Köln

If you plan to stay at that place for long, consider burying PE pipe in the ground. It is less expensive than garden hose and used for drinking water. That way you will only need a short amount of hose in the end, which can be of higher quality.

I would be very tempted to just write:
"Converting the measurements to metric is left as an exercise for the reader"

You recorded it how you are familiar and if someone wants to replicate that, they can spend a few minutes to convert the measurements.


Which is not too far from how I work (and treat the work of other): If you are not happy with my work, do it yourself.

If you find a shade with a matching diameter, a bit of wire wrapped around the rings would probably keep it in place, but that's a rather difficult operation each time you want to remove it.

I am not an engineer, but looking at the roof, I would probably put at least 4 wooden blocks up as columns to make sure it does not collapse in the event something gets hit nearby.

Wetting the clay and then compacting it a little should make the dust problem disappear. The moisture from the soil will be more difficult to remove. You could dig everything out a little and, place a thick plastic sheet and then cover it with the (moist) clay/sand mixture again. Or sufficient ventilation to move the humidity outside.

That looks … fun.

if you can find something that threads on the thread at the bottom, you are in luck.
Otherwise replacing the socket with a more modern on that allows attaching a shade would solve it.

I don't think using natural rubber will give you the best results as it will break down under UV light and then you just have a broken hose.

Look for food save epdm (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber hoses used in food manufacturing. They should last a decent amount outside (ideally, don't leave it in the sun).

I used epdm rubber on a green roof many years ago, and it did very well, causing my to suggest trying to find a hose made from it. However I could not find anything.

Looking in german for "Trinkwasserschlauch" gives some decent results.

https://www.quarzflex.de/Quarzflex-Trinkwasserschlaeuche (4€/m)
https://www.sani-flex.de/profiline-aqua-plus-meterware-1-2-zoll/a-3035/10m (6€/m)
https://gastro-brennecke.de/Trinkwasserschlauch-1-2-Zoll-Rehau-KTW-DVGW-20-Meter (5€/m)

This is using Darktable. I cropped the picture a bit to center her and remove the blown out areas.

You could create lower resolution copies of each image and use those for the layout. When everything is ready, right-click on each image and select "replace".

The reason to scan at the maximum possible quality, is that once information is lost, it can't be recovered. The only way to fix it, is to scan the picture again.
That being said, with a trained eye, you can see the resolution of the picture and then set the scan resolution to be roughly twice that, but even moderate quality prints should have 300 DPI or more, meaning scanning at 600 DPI is required to no loose details.

There are two classes of image compression:
- lossless. (TIFF, PNG). The original image can be reconstructed perfectly.
- lossy (JPEG, WEBP) The image does not contain the full information. "information of lesser visual importance" is thrown away (details in dark areas, colors are stored at half the resolution). These cannot be edited because any editing will make the compression artifacts visible.

When the picture is edited and placed in the book at whatever size it happens to be, during the PDF export step, the picture is scaled down and compressed to the appropriate level.