Sebastian Köln

Well, now I had to make some research.
From my experience a FHD (1920x1080) screen in landscape is good for writing a A4 document in portrait mode if the text isn't too small.
So lets assume 1920px for 210mm., which is 9.14px/mm or 232ppi (pixels per inch).
A A4 page is 14.4" (for reference)

Now lets assume you want to view your page in portrait mode, then the screen would need 2720 by 1920 pixels.

possible panels:
2760×2070 11.5" (too small?)
3200×1800 25.3" (too large to be portable)
2200×1650 13.3" (only 206 ppi)

That would still leave the need to build a housing and build a text-writer that is optimized for this application to make writing at least somewhat comfortable.
There appear to be a handful of devices using the last panel, but it is discontinued and most are sold out. And even if you manage to get one, you would still need custom firmware.


There does appear to be a new one: "Dasung Paperlike 13K" 13.3" with 300ppi, but it isn't exactly cheap and it still needs to be connected to a computer (which actually is a good thing as it means running your own software is much easier). So that + some small computing device and a nice keyboard would do it for a portable typewriter.

I have been looking for a high-resolution panel as a second monitor to read documentation and I have not found one that has a sufficient resolution.
There is also the catch that  e-ink screens are somewhat slow in updating the image, so depending on how smart the screen controller is, it may take some time to get any visual feedback.
Voice to text needs either an internet connection or a decently powerful computer.

The PineNote does not have enough resolution to read PDFs with small text without having to move the page around.

From a price point, nothing will match a used thinkpad t-series laptop with linux on it.

Since the tank has a pressure if much greater than 2 PSI, the 1/2" pipe will do fine, just not with the 0.5 PSI regulator. And I expect that a regulator that delvers something around 1-3 PSI is quite a bit less expensive than a new pipe.

220k BTU/hour is roughly 6m³/h or 100L/min.
Running that into a pressure drop calculator gives 0.036 bar or 0.53 psi.

Add 0.4 psi you want to keep inside and you get at least 1 psi that needs to come out at the regulator from the tank.
I would probably add a little more for extra margin so the pressure doesn't fluctuate too much.

If you plan to stay at that place for long, consider burying PE pipe in the ground. It is less expensive than garden hose and used for drinking water. That way you will only need a short amount of hose in the end, which can be of higher quality.

I would be very tempted to just write:
"Converting the measurements to metric is left as an exercise for the reader"

You recorded it how you are familiar and if someone wants to replicate that, they can spend a few minutes to convert the measurements.


Which is not too far from how I work (and treat the work of other): If you are not happy with my work, do it yourself.

If you find a shade with a matching diameter, a bit of wire wrapped around the rings would probably keep it in place, but that's a rather difficult operation each time you want to remove it.

I am not an engineer, but looking at the roof, I would probably put at least 4 wooden blocks up as columns to make sure it does not collapse in the event something gets hit nearby.

Wetting the clay and then compacting it a little should make the dust problem disappear. The moisture from the soil will be more difficult to remove. You could dig everything out a little and, place a thick plastic sheet and then cover it with the (moist) clay/sand mixture again. Or sufficient ventilation to move the humidity outside.

That looks … fun.

if you can find something that threads on the thread at the bottom, you are in luck.
Otherwise replacing the socket with a more modern on that allows attaching a shade would solve it.