Coydon Wallham

Matt Greenblood wrote:I am curious if anyone has tried using a wine/whiskey barrel instead of the plastic bin for this? They are liquid tight and I'm thinking that if I treated them with all natural tung oil on the interior and exterior that would increase their longevity even further. Just doing some brainstorming on this topic and thought I'd check in with the experts. Thanks for sharing this great idea with the world!

Coopered barrels are only liquid tight as long as enough liquid remains in the barrel to keep the reeves moist and  expanded between the staves. The goal here is to keep the proto-candy in the container as dry as possible so that it achieves jerky consistency. There needs to be an inch or two at the bottom of a barrel and the layer of sawdust in the bottom of the willow feeder vessel is there to soak up any liquid that might make it in.

At first it might sound like the small air gaps would accelerate the jerky process, but the process is that excess urine going in when dry and not soaked up by the sawdust will leak out until the reeves are moistened enough to expand. I'd expect a smelly mess.

I think they would also be quite heavy full and not nearly as practical to move about as Rubbermaid 'cans'. It would definitely be an improved aesthetic, though.

The original question about facing of the roof slope on the side of a hill, along with Mr. Daley's presence here, made me think of a Simpson's episode. The family travels to Australia and is forced to seek refuge in the US embassy. A diplomat proudly shows them the evidence of US ingenuity used to bring the comforts of home to down under with a highly complex, powered toilet that makes sure wastewater is reversed to exit the unit in an anti-clockwise direction.


Given access to enough resources, practically any 'design flaw' can be compensated for. But if designing from scratch, why not utilize the best ideals from the start?

I'm guessing at the motivation here- is this a south facing slope where you are seeking greater solar input to reach the taller wall under the high point of the roof with?

Yes, anyone who likes to eat out and finds themselves in Minneapolis should make a reservation at Owamni. Excellent food and, while not cheap, the prices do seem about right for stuff that doesn't come off of a Sysco truck.

It is interesting to compare the Owamni experience to my interactions with local tribal communities- the scars of their past treatment by government authorities that show in horrendous dietary habits. Sean's efforts to revive traditional foods into a fine dining atmosphere doesn't seem like an intuitive way to drive change at the more vernacular reservation level. I guess it is an inspiring activity to drive outreach efforts and hopefully a bridge can be built without abandoning their other traditional cultures outside of food sourcing...

Tracy Joosten wrote:
Found it in a vehicle at WL! It’s likely this is one is the one you left. I was charmed; I love Devo.

I'm not sure if it's okay to talk about Devo Club, but if you check around a little birdie told me there might be other hive heads on campus...

Is that a tape you found in a vehicle on the lab, or at a second hand store somewhere? Circle Square in Missoula has a good selection of cassettes, I found a Devo one there I left for the Rav, but don't remember which actual title...

Esteban Ademovski wrote:Then after you put it back together, a quick check is to run the saw and point the tip at a log—you should see a light line or mist of oil coming off. If you don’t, something’s still blocked.

I can't remember- what does the lab run through the chainsaws for oil? After reading a thread here on bar oil, I started using vegetable oil to prevent flinging petroleum all over the forest. Haven't noticed a problem with my Ryobi electric in the last couple years, but I've only done my long cutting sessions in the cold in that time.

Not sure if I missed the explanation, but what was the issue with the old abbey gate?

A friend owes a favour so is giving me unrestricted access to the NSA's database- Ima take off next week to read the internet and will get back with what I figure out...

John F Dean wrote:What is the boot made of?  

If leather, back in the day I had old timers tell me to soak the boot in warm water and wear it until it dries. Then, when thoroughly dry, oil it well.  That said, I did not follow their advice.

This is known as "casing" the boot. It is a trade off- it allows the boot to conform quickly to the shape and flex of the user's foot and walking pattern, but does so by breaking the fibres in the leather and shortening the overall life of the boot. This was often done by soldiers in 'boot' camp to make the initial experience less grueling.

If using expensive leather boots, it is worth breaking them in through normal wear, treating the flex points with a non-petroleum oil to help develop a natural hinge there without as much damage to the fibres. I still have a pair of motorcycle boots from 18 years ago with leather in good shape despite all the storms and winter weather I've put them through over the years. The velcro fasteners, plastic buckles, and pleather fringe have long since bit the dust and been replaced by a cobbler, along with 2 sets of soles...

Harry Malecki wrote:BEL Post #7

What do you call that angle drilling jig? Was it tucked away in the shop somewhere or did you have to procure it somehow? Is it a universal fit or custom for that Makita?

I like the design and slab selection there, are your steps to level the bottoms of the legs a guarded secret or just too simple for a master craftsman to bother mentioning...?