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Esteban Ademovski wrote:
Happy new year and it never crossed my mind ... thank you for placing it to my attention, I'll definitely spread some rmh ash today....
FrogFlavor
I wonder if linseed is just a bonus from flax grown for the purpose of textiles. I wonder if flaxseed oil (same thing but sold in grocery stores for food) has the properties OP is looking for.
forgeblast
It does, same plant just different varieties. The flax was grown for fiber and the linseed grown for oil. I use organic flax seed oil. But I make stand oil out of it. I buy it bulk in gallons, and put it in mason jars. 50/50 oil to water. Shake it once every day. Pour off the good oil. Do it again. Three weeks total. When you're done it's really pure oil. Dries quickly and I use it on carved spoons cutting boards etc because it's a drying oil vs mineral oil that never dries or beeswax and mineral oil that is melted the first time you use it.
Midnight-Meat-Man
I've never heard of mixing oil with water for purification and I can't find anything after some brief googling.
Does this method have a name & can you explain what's happening or send a link that goes into detail on the process?
forgeblast
Here are two links, the first is the one I followed. I would buy my oil from https://bulknaturaloils.com/
http://www.realcolorwheel.com/washlinseed.htm.
https://danieljamesyeomans.com/how-to-make-sun-thickened-linseed-oil/
lewisiarediviva
You harvest differently depending on if you want an oil or a fiber crop; the best fibers come when the plant is still green and flowering, but you don’t get seed. If you wait for the seed to be ripe and oily, the fiber is lower quality and harder to process.
obscure-shadow
I use flax oil from the grocery store for my wood handled tools. I don't go through enough to give an objective opinion as to the current quality though, I still have the same bottle from last year and it's fine
Phil Stevens wrote:The problem with silicone (aside from the toxic gick aspect) is that once it's on there, you'll never be able to get anything to adhere. The thing about cob is that it's super easy to patch cracks and chips, or mold new features. If you introduce a material that prevents this, you've just wrecked one of cob's best attributes.
Although not a floor, the following is useful info you might like to know. Adjust as you see fit.
Some advice from the book: Earthen Floors by Sukita Reay Crimmel and James Thompson
- "One gallon of oil will cover 35–45 square feet, usually in four coats. Make sure there’s enough oil to complete the job, as all the coats are applied on the same day (the oil does not need to dry between coats). It can be applied with either a brush, a paint roller, rags or a sprayer.
- Each coat will require progressively less oil to cover the floor. The oil pattern is easy to see during the first coat. Pay close attention to where you have oiled with the next few coats. Darker areas have more oil than lighter areas. A brush tends to apply more oil than a roller or rags."
- The whole floor may show darker and lighter areas, and possibly even spots where oil has dripped off a bucket or brush. These irregularities will typically balance out and not be noticeable once the oil has dried.
- Apply oil until the floor is saturated, usually about 4 coats. The saturation point will become apparent when the floor stops absorbing oil, and oil starts puddling on the surface, usually in an irregular pattern.
- Stop applying oil to the areas where this occurs."
John C Daley wrote:Firstly you need to use boiled linseed oil.
Thin later coats with turpintine, I am not sure if you use mineral or pure turpintine.
With a rag, brush, roller, or soft sponge, apply at least four coats of boiled linseed oil. It is important to use boiled, not raw, linseed oil. (In some countries, Mexico, for instance, earthen floors are stabilized using old motor oil. While this might be okay for a well- ventilated space such as a carport, it will give off toxic fumes, so we can't recommend it.) Apply each coat until it begins to puddle, then wipe off any excess. The first coat should go on full strength. Wait for it to dry before applying the next coat. The second coat should be thinned with 25 percent turpentine, citrus thinner, alcohol, or mineral spirits. The third should be 50/50 oil and thinner, and the fourth 25 percent oil, 75 percent thinner. The reason for this is to improve penetration so you don't end up with an eggshell-thin hard layer on top of your floor, which can chip off to expose soft earth beneath. As each layer of oil is applied, it clogs up the open pores in the earth, which the water left behind as it dried, making the surface harder for the next layer to soak in. Warming the oil or the floor before application makes the oil penetrate better. When your final coat of oil is dry, which may take many days, you will have a hard, durable, water-resistant floor. Pour a little water on it and try scrubbing with your fingers—you will find that the water stays clean, but soaks into the floor slowly. Your floor is now functionally finished, durable, and attractive, but if you want to be able to clean it with a wet mop or spill colored liquids with- out staining it, you will have to wax the floor.
