Arthur Wierzchos

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since Nov 02, 2023
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After becoming an award winning eco-tour guide (Eco Tour Guide of the year 2013 - Hawaii Tourism Association) and photographer (Hawaii Nei Photo Competition) in Hawaii - my life transitioned more to following Permaculture principles. I received my PDC in 2012, then became certified in Korean Natural Farming practices, followed by enrollment into the Tropical Ecosystem and Agroforestry Management (TEAM) program at the local University. I spent 16 years in Hawaii, then Taiwan for a couple of years, and now in Poland, where my great grandparents lived. The focus now is on developing a regenerative and syntropic style silvopasture system that helps to work more closely with a natural water cycle.
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Insko, Poland zone 7a
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Recent posts by Arthur Wierzchos

For the last few years I have been mostly volunteering and taking on the occasionally money making opportunities that could relate to permaculture in some way, such as with leading workshops, acting as an english teacher where the lessons always included terminology used in natural farming, and other work that involves physical labor.  I did spend a lot of time and effort on growing food and creating permaculture type designs for our own gardens, but that rarely brought any substantial amount of $$.  

After seeing the remote work dream gig posted here on permies, I started focusing my time on the computer more, but that wasn't really leading me into anything that was bringing the immediate results that I needed, so now Im back to physical labor.  It is mostly mowing lawns, trimming and shaping living fences, and sometimes other land or home maintenance tasks.  Im beginning to build a reputation within my community, and now Im not able to keep up with the demand, even though im charging much more for my time than is the norm.  

I cant say that I enjoy it, but I am outside most of the time being active with my body and able to occasionally inject permaculture intel into what I am doing.  

3 weeks ago
ok, fine!  Take my money. My pledge has been increased  

You got me with the Spring Terrace addy
1 month ago
Im working with "Gemini" AI to come up with a post for facebook, which includes a short story to make it more personal.  I feel like im falling behind in this effort, but I also want make this digestible, shareable, and the kickstarter link clickable  Here is what i have so far:

>>>The Uncomfortable Truth About Your Flush (and How We're Changing It)

From our tent, just 30 meters from the riverbank, life here in Poland is simple, beautiful, and sometimes, a little too real. Mimi and I moved here for the quiet, the nature, the promise of pristine waters. Our property is nestled between two stunning lakes – Lake Ińsko, fed by springs and famously clean, and Lake Wisola (also known as Studnica). Connecting them is the Ina River, or what locals tell us used to be a river.

Twenty years ago, the Ina flowed almost year-round. Now? It's dry for most of the year. And when it does flow, it carries a secret.

You see, the water from Lake Ińsko, pure as it starts, takes an unfortunate journey. It spills into an overflow channel, meanders through the heart of the quaint town of Ińsko, past community gardens, right by our tent, and then, crucially, past a sewage treatment plant before emptying into Lake Wisola.

Despite its spring-fed origins, within just a few meters of leaving Lake Ińsko, the water quickly becomes... less than pristine. It picks up plastic trash, chemical runoff, winter de-icing salts from the streets, and likely agricultural chemicals from nearby fields. It’s a sad sight, a stark reminder that even in paradise, our footprint is undeniable.

And here’s the uncomfortable truth, the one we often try to ignore: every time we flush, we're sending something somewhere. And often, that "somewhere" ends up in our precious rivers, lakes, and oceans. Even modern sewage treatment, while better than nothing, isn't perfect. It's a band-aid on a gushing wound, often releasing treated wastewater that still contains pollutants, pharmaceuticals, and microplastics.

But here's the real kicker, something most folks never consider: When you flush, you're not just sending water down the drain. You're flushing away incredible, valuable nutrients – nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium – that our gardens and forests are starving for. We spend billions to create synthetic fertilizers, while simultaneously polluting our water with the very nutrients we need. It's like throwing away gold and then complaining you're broke!

So, what's the solution? Do we just stop flushing? (Well, not exactly, but we do stop wasting.)

I don't have all the answers, and truly, it takes a community – and a shift in mindset – to tackle environmental challenges of this scale. Especially when powerful interests often prefer the status quo.

But what if there was a way to capture those lost nutrients, reduce pollution at the source, and actually feed our planet, all while dealing with human waste in a way that's safer and smarter than what's currently considered "normal"?

Enter the Willow Feeder.

Now, hold on a second. When I say "Willow Feeder," most people picture some kind of fancy septic system or a giant bog. Nope! The biggest misconception to debunk right off the bat is that this system involves any water treatment. It doesn't. In fact, no wastewater enters the Willow Feeder system at all.

Think of it more like a highly evolved, hyper-efficient composting toilet system. Here's how it works:

  • Urine Diversion: First, we separate the liquids. Urine, rich in nitrogen, is diverted away. It's fantastic for direct application to the landscape or into mulch pits, feeding the soil directly without overwhelming the system.


  • Poop Bins: What's left – the solid stuff – goes into specially designed bins. These aren't just buckets; they have internal piping that maximizes airflow and promotes rapid dehydration. This is key!


  • Dehydration is the Magic: Unlike traditional composting toilets that rely on active decomposition (which can be slow and sometimes smelly if not managed perfectly), the Willow Feeder focuses on dehydration. By drying out the manure, we drastically reduce the pathogen load. It's like turning a potentially messy problem into a stable, nutrient-rich, and much safer resource.


  • Feeding the Trees: Once a bin is full and the contents are thoroughly dehydrated, it's moved. And this is where the "Willow Feeder" gets its name. These dehydrated nutrients are then used to feed hungry trees – like willows, which are nitrogen-guzzling champions. I use willows here in my climate because they thrive on this nutrient boost, growing fast and strong. But in other climates, you could be feeding banana trees, fruit trees, or even your garden beds. The trees aren't treating the water; they're eating the concentrated nutrients!


  • Why willows (or other trees)? Because they're the ultimate nutrient recyclers. Instead of flushing valuable carbon and nitrogen into our waterways or releasing it as greenhouse gases, we're capturing it, cycling it back into living biomass, building healthy soil, and sequestering carbon. It's a closed-loop system, just like nature intended.

    But Paul, isn't that... gross? Unhygienic? Primitive?

    Let's bust some myths right here:

  • Smell? When properly designed and managed for dehydration, the Willow Feeder is surprisingly odorless. Most "toilet" smells come from the interaction of urine and solids, or anaerobic decomposition. We address that with diversion and dehydration.


  • Pathogens? This is where the dehydration is genius. By removing the moisture, we create an environment where most pathogens can't survive. The reduction in pathogen load is huge compared to just about any other system, including many municipal treatment plants.


  • Primitive? What's truly primitive is continuing to pollute our rivers and oceans with valuable resources, and relying on energy-intensive, centralized systems that fail. The Willow Feeder is sophisticated ecological engineering, mimicking natural processes to solve a modern problem. It's for anyone who wants a healthier planet, whether you live off-grid or in the suburbs.

  • Why should you care, especially if you live in a city?

    Because the water that flows through our Polish stream eventually makes its way to the Baltic Sea. And the water that flows from your city's treatment plant eventually ends up in your local river, which flows to your ocean. We are all connected by water, by soil, by the very nutrients that sustain life. The "Willow Feeder" isn't just a rural permaculture dream; it's a scalable, replicable model that can inspire and inform how we manage waste everywhere, reducing the burden on municipal systems, creating fertile land, and protecting our shared global water supply.

    This isn't just a Kickstarter; it's a movement. It's a chance to invest in a tangible, eco-logical solution that can truly save our rivers and oceans, one nutrient-captured, pathogen-reduced, tree-fed contribution at a time.

    Join us in making this vision a reality. Support the "Saving our Rivers and Oceans" Kickstarter. Let's turn our waste into wonder, and help bring our waterways and our soils back to life.

    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/paulwheaton/willow-feeders?ref=2mtm5n

    Every contribution, big or small, helps Permies.com bring this vital technology to more people, educate communities, and ultimately, clean up our planet. And yes, your support through my personal link means I can reinvest even more into this incredible project, creating a positive feedback loop for a healthier world.

    Let's make a splash, not a mess!

    <<<

    Thoughts?  Any adjustments I should make before posting?  I will want to share in a few permaculture related groups - not just on my own page.  

    Some images to help with visuals should help with making it go more viral.  Gemini AI suggests using images showing a clean stream next to a polluted one, diagrams or simple animations showing how the system works, a permies.com logo or recognizable imagery,
    1 month ago
    This is the image that i really like, and want to use when sharing:



    Liv Smith posted a smaller one above, but id like to use a slightly larger version when sharing.  

    Thanks team!  

    Hope this kickstarter ends up going way over the goal, way more quickly than expected.

    Protecting water sources is a soft spot for me, and hopefully for many others as well.  

    Any word from Zach Weiss yet?  Is he joining the fun in this effort?
    1 month ago
    Code Me!  Pleeeease.

    Where can we access the higher resolution images to share in our own social media channels?
    1 month ago
    Looks like im backer #179!

    My first kickstarter backing ever!  

    The total now shows $6,572
    1 month ago
    I'm working on an off-grid homestead and exploring how to use DC power in ways that align with permaculture principles—low-tech, resilient, and non-extractive. Rather than relying heavily on conventional batteries (which can be expensive, short-lived, resource-intensive, and lets face it - in the long term add toxic gick), I'm looking into creative ways to use energy directly and store any excess into the natural system in ways that it can also be tapped into when needed. Think thermal mass, gravity-fed systems, water pumping, compressed air, flywheels, or anything else that converts into useful work without the battery bottleneck. What has worked for you? I'd love to hear real-world examples, ideas, or even failures that taught you something valuable.
    4 months ago
    Welcome to Permies Hannah!

    Personally Im a big fan of covering wood with dirt, especially in areas that have poor nutrient availability or abused soils.  Its a great way to quickly add organic matter and carbon, which help create those conditions for happy growies.

    Organizing logs lengthwise across contour lines in a way that slows, sinks, and spreads water into the directions we choose can help capture and retain both moisture and nutrients, especially if combined with a diversity of living roots and green covers.  This is a basic step that can be taken without worrying about too much labor inputs. Laying logs down, and spreading seeds to get something green capturing solar energy and injecting liquid carbon into the ground. More diversity of plant families interacting through root networks can help to unlock nutrients from varying depths that even soil tests won't show.  

    Adding amendments can be tricky because it can be easy to overdo it.  Too much of one thing can make another less available.  

    I like the Biology over Chemistry approach myself, but I do still acknowledge that some amendments might be necessary in some contexts.  It depends on what your goals and intentions are.  

    What "weeds" or other plants are naturally showing up on their own?  This could help us get clued in on what's going on with your unique ecosystem.  

    What is your geology?  Do you know the history of your land and how it has been used over time?  

    hannah lpro wrote: My questions are: Will it improve the soil below even if I don't plan to plant onto the berm itself? Can I put the berm outside the fenced in garden and will it actually hold back enough water? Is it worth it? It seems like a lot of labor.



    So, to answer your questions more directly, I think that soil can be improved without planting, but planting improves it more.  Holding back water is a matter of diversion and storage in relation to flow rates.  

    What are the record rain events for your area?  How much water coming down the mountain is the potential, and are there barriers that can be made with less effort using a combination of trenches, and slightly off-contour swales, berms, or terraces?  Where can the excess water be moved to, without loosing it?  

    Water is life, after all.  
    4 months ago
    Welcome to Permies Patricia!

    Sounds like some thoughtful design work you have in mind.  

    Planting Mulberries has never been a regrettable choice for me.

    They are easy to manage, great for feeding the chickens, and some varieties are delicious! One of the top permaculture species.  

    Your thoughts to use them to distract birds from other fruits is spot on with permaculture way of thinking.  Feeding the wildlife helps create all sorts of natural connections in the system.  Free bird poop fertilizer, potential insect control, and who doesn't love the songs they bring?  

    As far as nitrogen fixers I try to not mix too many of them together in my system.  I've read from the regenerative ag experts, such as Dr. Christine Jones - who specializes in polyculture, that about 10% N fixers is a good rule of thumb.

    I don't know much about Tennessee, but I am also in a zone 7 climate, so looking forward to what others will be willing to share.  

    Eino Kenttä wrote:Thank you Arthur for the excellent tutorial! How did the grafts do?

    I'm about to do this, will try my hand at nurse-grafting apples onto some random rowan seedlings I dug up...



    My pleasure, Eino!  

    Im glad somebody is finding the info useful.  Thanks for commenting.  It is nice to see this post again and being reminded of the trials from last year.

    Long story short …most of my purchased grafts ended up failing, while at the same time I took scions from our own trees, and 90% of those succeeded.  I was very confused about what might have gone wrong, and I ended up being quick to quietly point the finger at the person who supplied the scion wood.  I didn't make a fuss about it, though, and went more into a reflective mode with closer observations, and eventually realized that it was probably my own dang fault.  There were some differences between the unsuccessful grafts I purchased and the successful ones that I transferred from one tree to another.

    The Failed Grafts

    I believe that the main mistakes I made with the purchased scions were:

  • [b]Grafting onto lower and thinner diameter branches on the trees, and out further from the main trunk. [/b] I was trying to match same size diameters to each each other mostly using a whip-and-tongue method. This also proved to be more time consuming, and I ended up with bleeding fingers more times than I care to admit.


  • Not cutting off the plastic wrap from the graft joints after a couple of months.  I waited until this year to do so, and realized that this caused a tourniquet type effect.  I wrapped the grafts very tight, and some ended up showing a clear bottle-neck shape.


  • Not helping to re-direct the sap-flow/energy into grafted areas.  I mostly left these to be after i was done, rather than coming back later to pick off new shoots on the tree being grafted onto.  I have read that trees tend to favor their own branches, rather than grafted branches, which tends to take away energy from the grafts.  


  • The Successful Grafts

    Attached to larger diameter wood.   The method I used was mostly the bark or rind graft, or framework grafting, where multiple smaller diameter scions can be attached to the end of a larger diameter cut ends of scaffold limbs.  

    The tree I chose was a much older healthy tree that had apples of spitting quality.  I decided to take a pollarding approach, where all the main upper branches were cut back to stumps. I was really trying to keep the cuts no larger than the diameter of a golf-ball size, as to minimize stress on the tree and prevent infections and future disease issues. A smaller diameter wound heals more quickly and easily.  

    I cut vertical slits in the sides of the branches (between 2-4, depending on the thickness), and slid the wedge shaped scions under the bark layer, making sure to connect as much cambium as possible from the tree to exposed cambium of the scion.  90% of the grafts i did like this succeeded.  The cut end of the branch ended up with multiple points where healing could happen more quickly. This creates greater callus formation, or healing tissue around the graft unions.

    This year I went back and delicately pruned off unwanted new growth, which was crossing or going in unfavorable directions.  Next year I will likely be choosing which of the grafts to keep, and which to cut off completely as to minimize crowding.  Many of these trimmings will likely offer source material for new scions to graft elsewhere, or to share and exchange with friends.  

    Here is an image from SkillCults website, which shows what most of my successful grafts looked like, and what I am mostly doing this year:



    What I feel I did correctly overall that can help with successful grafting.

  • Sourcing scionwood at the right time of year.  For me this was late winter, while the trees were in a dormant state.  On my own trees I chose straight branches that were from the previous years growth, which had more space between buds.  They were “waterspout” type branches that grow straight up and create long whips.  I found that it was easier to graft with straight and uniformly round material.  


  • Storing the scions properly.  I did this by cutting them into lengths slightly shorter than the width of a larger plastic ziplock freezer type bag, placing them inside, adding fresh wood shavings that were dampened, but not wet, and then taking as much air out of the bags as possible before sealing shut.  These bags were stored in a cool and dark place.  Supposedly scions that experience warmth or receive light can begin to wake up.  We want them to stay in a hibernation mode until after they have been attached to the trees, or rootstocks.


  • Waiting until sap flow to begin grafting.  While some people were saying it is time to graft, I waited patiently and observed my trees to tell me when it was time.  As soon as I saw the buds begin to swell I knew that the sap was now flowing, and that the grafts would get the juices needed to keep them going without drying out.  


  • Protecting the grafts by coating with a graft sealer/wax, which of course was the whole reason why i created this topic.  While some respondents in the comments say it is not necessary to do this, I still choose to take the precautionary approach and take this extra step, until later experiences and experiments will help me to prove to myself otherwise.  Because there are some wonderful people commenting that seem to know what they are talking about I think there is good reason to believe that this step could actually be eliminated in the right context.  


  • What I’m doing differently this year.


  • Choosing the right trees for framework and top work, in a graft-and-restore approach, while taking extra steps to improve the soil around them.  This info might be best left for a separate post, or a new topic.  This reply is getting long as it is…haha.  


  • Removing competing growth from the rootstock tree early on.  


  • Making sure to cut off plastic wrap in a couple of months time.  


  • Using a store bought tree seal to cover the grafts with.  I didn’t have enough time this year to make my own, and I had way too many grafts to deal with (41 new varieties), so I needed a more convenient quick fix solution.  Again, I do wonder if this step is even necessary?


  • I hope this helps you Eino, and anybody else coming back to read through the material in the future!

    Maybe one of us, or somebody in the Permies community, can remember to bump this thread before scion gathering season begins in Winter, and maybe some seasoned grafting experts will be willing to chime in and offer their own thoughts at some point as well.
    5 months ago