Standing on the shoulders of giants. Giants with dirt under their nails
Tj Jefferson wrote:Alex, it looks like you need lots of micros, wow. Cu Fe Zn are basically not even there. Sulfur is off the charts. Did they give you magnesium? Or selenium (I am guessing this is selenium toxicity).
If you can get rock dust from a semi local site you might get closer. I use a cheap local granite and add zinc, which is the only real deficiency. Plus it is low in boron, which limits how much you can apply in some basalts.
Well at least you can grow onions like a maniac.
Standing on the shoulders of giants. Giants with dirt under their nails
Travis Johnson wrote:I think if you incorporate lots of organic matter, you will bring a lot of those deficiencies to workable levels. Your organic levels are at 1.1%...holy crap!
I did not readily see a number for arsenic. Do you know if that was checked? In looking at the numbers, it looked like that would be rather high too.
List of Bryant RedHawk's Epic Soil Series Threads We love visitors, that's why we live in a secluded cabin deep in the woods. "Buzzard's Roost (Asnikiye Heca) Farm." Promoting permaculture to save our planet.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Calcium Sulfate will be a good thing to add to those areas to bring the pH into the sweet spot (6.8 to 6.4) without doing that your microbiome will struggle.
Organic matter needs to be increased to 2.5% to 3.5% (minimum) if you could get it above 4.0 % some of your high numbers would drop and some of your low numbers would rise.
As was mentioned, a good granite rock dust would be really good, granite rock dust is slightly acidic too so it would also do some pH adjusting to the right end as well.
This is one of those cases where a good one time tilling can do a lot of help and speed up the soil organisms recovery (you will most likely need to add some organisms in the slick, it is most likely dirt)
First things to do are get organic materials in then rock dust then the calcium sulfate to fine adjust the pH. From there it will be mushroom slurries and good air rich compost to bring the microorganisms up to par.
grasses will then need to be planted so they can get some roots growing to help with the texture and tilth of the area. Might try some clovers and field peas, rape, just about anything will be of benefit.
Water will do some leaching and that will be good only when the soil can drain better from the organics addition.
Once you get it to this stage you can make the mineral adjustments with better success at keeping them where you want them.
Redhawk
List of Bryant RedHawk's Epic Soil Series Threads We love visitors, that's why we live in a secluded cabin deep in the woods. "Buzzard's Roost (Asnikiye Heca) Farm." Promoting permaculture to save our planet.
Standing on the shoulders of giants. Giants with dirt under their nails
Zinc dissolves better in water at around 150f. If you can find "mossy zinc" that might work better for the cedar apple rust issue.Tj Jefferson wrote:Dr Redhawk's Soil Testing Thread
Dr Redhawk, I have used both zinc and copper sulfates in solution, and I have to have warm water to get much zinc to dissolve. They seem to work best in foliar feeding. Zinc alone has shown promise with the cedar apple rust, my copper levels are getting pretty good and I no longer apply it. I know copper will work.
List of Bryant RedHawk's Epic Soil Series Threads We love visitors, that's why we live in a secluded cabin deep in the woods. "Buzzard's Roost (Asnikiye Heca) Farm." Promoting permaculture to save our planet.
Tj Jefferson wrote:Common in alkali flats out west. I'm from there.
Tj Jefferson wrote:Dr Redhawk's Soil Testing Thread
Dr Redhawk, I have used both zinc and copper sulfates in solution, and I have to have warm water to get much zinc to dissolve. They seem to work best in foliar feeding. Zinc alone has shown promise with the cedar apple rust, my copper levels are getting pretty good and I no longer apply it. I know copper will work.
Alex, I looked through the commercial rock dusts available on rockdustlocal, but you may be able to find a suitable basalt near you. I get my rock dust for free, I just ask for the settlement pond fines, and I pay a friend to haul it for me. It is a waste product for the quarry. There may be somewhere similar you can get a bunch of minerals on the cheap.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:I wouldn't go with a copper sulfate (Cu is not off much) and since that allows more sulfate to be released faster.
If your soil had high levels of sulfur the pH would be far below 7.0 and your test shows the pH to be in the 8.0 range, we are shooting for a pH between 6.8 and 6.4 so acidity is what is needed, we just want to do it gradually so there isn't a shock effect to the microbiome organisms.
Your tests shows lime to be "very high", that means basic soil, just because you have two areas of high sulfur (AI and 60AB) doesn't really compute to me as accurate since the pH of those two areas (8.0 and 8.1) don't correlate to the sulfur numbers.
Zn is low across the board, but we should address the pH first because the Zn could move up once the soil becomes slightly acidic..
The salts levels above 0.7 are a little bit of concern but those will go down as your soil becomes more organic matter rich.
Nitrogen is ok, you can grow corn (very N hungry stuff) in areas with only 10ppm of N, you only have area 490AD that has a concerning low nitrogen level at this point, which is pretty easy to fix with a healthy microbiome.
Notice that the Fe is also low in 490AD, all those "shortages" need to be addressed but it is better to address the major items first, again because a healthy microbiome can change things other than what you were working to fix.
In arid areas, water can do a lot of adjusting, so we want to fix the major items then work towards the overall picture once we have organisms working on the minerals already there that are bound up and not just the water soluble compounds.
(read through my thread on soil testing)
Redhawk
Moderator, Treatment Free Beekeepers group on Facebook.
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Michael Cox wrote:Our local rock dust source is a workshop that cuts and polishes stone for kitchen work tops and the like. No igneous rocks within a few hundred miles of here.
You don’t necessarily need a quarry as a source.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Calcium Sulfate will be a good thing to add to those areas to bring the pH into the sweet spot (6.8 to 6.4) without doing that your microbiome will struggle.
Redhawk
List of Bryant RedHawk's Epic Soil Series Threads We love visitors, that's why we live in a secluded cabin deep in the woods. "Buzzard's Roost (Asnikiye Heca) Farm." Promoting permaculture to save our planet.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:hau Alex, One of the nice things about using calcium sulfate is that you can use up to 10 kg per 100 m sq. with no worry about harm coming to the microbiome. I have not tested rates higher than that.
I do recommend that when it comes to making additions that you don't know well, going slow on the amount applied is a good idea.
That gives you time to observe, take readings, inspect under the microscope, etc. so you can make good decisions about increasing or decreasing the quantity applied in one pass.
On the rock dust use; I generally spread it in small amounts at a time, thicker applications on my land tend to blow away from where I want the product to be.
When I spread rock dust you can just about tell where I spread it but not without looking close. My spreading rate is 1-2 kg per 100 m sq., I'd rather make multiple applications than watch the amendment blow away, to help with that I generally spread things on damp ground after a rain if it is not thickly covered with plants.
The pastures had rock dusts added one time about two weeks after the grasses and other seeds had germinated, that was a one time application and for two acres I used about 200 lbs. (50 lb. bags).
That was three years ago and I haven't made any other additions to the pastures since that time, the rock dust was mixed with sea-90 which helped keep the dust where I wanted it and added many minerals missing from the rock dust.
If I was going to use a mineral dust today, I would first compare it to the minerals of sea-90 simply because I don't like spending money on something that isn't as good as the sea-90.
Redhawk
Tj Jefferson wrote:Common in alkali flats out west. I'm from there.
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