posted 5 years ago
My situation is similar to yours with water, dig down five feet MAX in the middle of summer, you hit water; but in winter, that is at best a few feet, and after a lot of rain, there can be surface water in low places. Any digging needs to be done NOW before the rainy season hits. Otherwise it becomes a mudfest.
Digging/tractor is the hard part - can you trade any of the split rails for temporary use of a digging machine?
I gave gone to galvanized posts (like what is used for chain link fencing) as having "wet feet" simply rots out wood posts - cedar may be able to resist better, and yours is free, but the work of replacing a perfectly good fence or structure due to rotted buried posts, sucks!
Try to "press" fence posts in, rather than dig and concrete or refill and tamp. With wet/peat below, you don't want to disturb the soil integrity - if you use a tractor bucket or with a post pounder thingy, your posts will be much more stable.
All my "standard" fencing boards, attached "up and down" (vertically) also rotted on the lowermost three inches - top 4-5 feet perfectly solid, bottom 3-6 inches rotten. So I suggest, if using wood, run at least the first course left to right (horizontally) so if rot is an issue you can pull that lowest board and easily replace it.
This is why one of my favorite building materials is (used) metal roofing: rot proof, maintenance free, critter proof, climb proof and rodent proof. Often obtainable for free when a barn or similar structure is pulled down.
For the greenhouse, DO take the time to skim off all soil/peat to the "summer" water level, instead of just rip rap and gravel atop the natural surface. This could other wise create an "island effect" where any structure will literally rise and falls with the water levels.
My neighbor built on a concrete slabs; they DID clear the first foot or so, before placing gravel and the slabs. BUT, he literally has to adjust the gate latches seasonally as the home and out buildings rise and fall so much they won't close.
Lastly, skip standard irrigation/watering type set ups; just dig shallow wells anywhere you will need water (garden areas). This may or may not be potable for animals, but will work for any plantings, and is really cost effective as there is little to no expensive plumbing to install or maintain. A small pond/fountain type pump can be used (powered by electricity, car battery, generator, solar) to fill a barrel/tote and left to gravity irrigate any plantings or garden areas.
My two cents worth when living with a high water table.
Lorinne Anderson: Specializing in sick, injured, orphaned and problem wildlife for over 20 years.