So the plan goes like this, I have a floor plan, and I intend to build a timber frame barn over the course of the next 5 years starting in 2022. After I come up with a materials list with quantities, I'll use this list to gather materials as I am able and store them. I'll build in sections. First year I hand dig the foundation. Second year I build the concrete foundation and lower sections of the walls. Third Year I raise the bents and roof it. Fourth year I fill in the walls and make the rainwater system. Fifth year I make the doors and install the pasture fence.
I plan to get help for roofing it, as I'm unsteady on my feet and have trouble walking or standing for long periods, and that doesn't mix well with heights. I was electrocuted last year by 60 amps of electricity and it caused nerve damage in my legs. It's actually why I have to have barns for my stock and can't raise them in electric netting anymore. I can't lift my legs high enough to step over the netting anymore. Turn the problem into a solution I say, so we're using my injury as an excuse to build a cool barn and make our livestock experience easier. Don't worry tho, chickens will still get lots of bugs and grass. I have a cricket and meal-worm raising setup I'm also building (partly for me and partly for the chickens, because bugs are a tasty snack).
The Barn's specs are as follows:
The frost line is 2 ft, so the foundation is 3 ft deep, the concrete wall comes up 2 feet above grade in stalls and 1 ft above grade for walls not adjoining a stall.
The length of the barn is 48 ft, and the width without the feed storage room is 24 ft. The Feed storage room is 18 ft x 18 ft.
Grade to plate is 8 ft on the south side, and 9 ft on the north side. There are king post shed trusses offset from north to south sides to allow a ridge vent. Northern trusses are 1 ft higher than southern trusses. Walls are sheathed with hinged panels like a tobacco barn that can be opened during hot weather to admit more airflow, preventing buildup of moisture, carbon dioxide, and ammonia from the deep bedding system.
Every third roof panel is clear polycarbonate to admit dappled sunlight. I plan to use Opaque white polycarbonate panels for the rest of the roof and for the tobacco barn vents.
A welded wire inner lining to the stalls lets me see the stock but keeps them from escaping, and keeps predators out when the vents are open.
All Barn doors are 2 inches thick and made of solid yellow pine 2x6 boards. I'm actually pretty good at making batten doors and there's a hand built dutch door in my blacksmith shop. The door in the feed storage room will be tight-fitting to keep rats out.
Walls that are un-vented will be wattle and daub (the front and back walls of the mow and the walls of the feed storage room). This is just cheap infill that I'll have a lot of materials for from digging the foundations. My soil is perfect as is being an alluvial deposit of clay and sand. I just have to add horse manure and straw to get a cob with really nice properties, then give it a nice double coat of lime stucco and draw on it with red ochre.
break the building down into flat plan drawings to scale, so everything is laid out.
label with arrows everything that is the same
then create a chart of each different type of item and count how many you need of that item.
IE 4x4 /12 feet. 15 off
foundation. 18 " x5ft / length
foundation. 18" x 4ft/ length
purlins 6x2 x 12ft
Will you use concrete hollow blocks above the foundation or keep the foundation width continuing to the line you mentioned?
I will encourage you to use an excavator, I have hand built one house and there is a reason!
Its very slow and can be mind destroying.
Consider getting premix, its usually much lower cost than mixing your own, and takes an hour or so to pour, compared with weeks.
John Daley Bendigo, Australia
The Enemy of progress is the hope of a perfect plan