William James wrote:The area is 400 square meters roughly. Planning on finding a source of finished compost nearby. We have access to rotted manure. I was planning to fork in 2 inches of compost and then mulch with 2 inches more every time I weeded this year, which is about every week or two. The soil just eats up everything I throw into it. We have small wood chips and straw, will probably add some of those on top.
I see P/K, but I don't see N in the soil test, maybe I'm missing something. I read that N isn't an important testing parameter, unless it's right before you sow.
Perhaps because this test was taken right after the summer growing season when everything was pumped out. Or I took bad samples, which is possible.
The garden was surprisingly full for such a bad test. Lots of heavy feeders (tomatoes, celery, peppers, etc). They seemed healthy but slow, but I attributed that more to a lack of water and not nutrients. It was a 4 month drought and I have water supply issues.
Your CEC is rather low, but not too low to be fertile. 40% organic matter is unreasonable, 7-12% is more realistic, but if you try to force feed manure to those levels you'll probably end up with problems (and it's expensive). Your pH isn't all that low and would quickly be corrected if you add Ca and Mg, which leaves me wondering what your soil type is like. That's a low CEC for a soil that isn't even very acidic.
EDIT: Just read sand. That explains everything.
William James wrote:
Gypsum: Will not change soil pH
Dolomite Lime (Ca+Mg): Raises soil pH; not soluble in higher pH soils
Thanks for shaing your soil numbers here
William James wrote: compost, manure, gypsum, Lime, Dolomite, Calcium sulfate, Potassium fertilizer, borax
I'd dealing with 2-300 square meters.
How well does your soil drain? If you add have clay, it likely doesn't drain well.