I'm aware that Locust is a very dense wood when dried, but how is it fresh cut?
Is it dimensionally stable in a green state?
Would it need to be dried first?
Will I even be able to get a drill through it? Are there any other considerations I need to take into account?
I appreciate any help or input I receive for this conceptual phase of the design. If this project works I may adapt it to other building projects on my property, because I could really use a workshop and other out-buildings.
Brian Knight wrote:Great thoughts from Jay. I think locust is one of the most desirable appalachian species for exterior exposure. Ive heard that whole logs tend to resist rot more than sawed ones. Its a serious pain to work with being so dense and will dull blades faster than just about any wood Ive worked with.
There are some things you can do to treated pine to make it last longer: tape the top edge of framing, use ledger spacers, use hidden deck fastening systems (fasten master's is my favorite). Instead of typical sized board decking, use 2x material. I think a well detailed PT deck could last longer than a poorly detailed locust one.
Here is a pic from one of our projects with a whole log post and locust carrying beam. http://www.houzz.com/photos/2242728/Springtime-Cottage-at-54-Swanger-traditional-exterior-other-metro
Tari Jay wrote:Also be aware that locust has no structural grading. therefore you can use it as a structural element- i e timber framing. if you don't intend to pass your plans along to a building coder, than it will hold up, however, just know that the law does not allow for bl to be used as a structural product...
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