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Need a diverter valve.

 
S Haze
Posts: 227
Location: Southern Minnesota, USA, zone 4/5
11
duck forest garden trees woodworking
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Can anyone help me find a 3 port diverter valve for a grey water system. It needs to be 3 inch

In the house I'm building there are two separate DWV systems (one for grey water) and the bottom end where they would T together is 3 inch PVC and I'm having trouble finding a valve. Has anyone come across one of these? I spent about an hour internet shopping for one with no luck. Lot's of 2 inch or smaller available. Maybe I'll have to modify or re-purpose something but I was hoping to just buy one and install it so I can get on to other projects.

Wondering also if anyone else has had this problem. It seemed better just to run all the grey water together rather than having a valve at each source. Way less material and expense.

Thanks!

-Scott
 
R Scott
Posts: 3305
Location: Kansas Zone 6a
32
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3 inch valves are rare, period. and pricey.

Have you looked at RV or pond/irrigation supplies? I am thinking you will need to use a couple knife or ball valves and a Tee.

My plan is to put a Tee in the line with the grey drain DOWN and a valve as close to it as I can. Valve closed and it flows to the septic with a small trap area to hold stuff (hopefully not a problem). Valve open and it will flow to grey and any overflow or plug will just go to septic.
 
S Haze
Posts: 227
Location: Southern Minnesota, USA, zone 4/5
11
duck forest garden trees woodworking
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Your idea sounds like a good one, but instead of a T use a four way cross over to accommodate a clean-out on top of it so if the trap is a problem it will be simple to maintain. I'll have to check if this will work in my situation since the elevations are already set. It might because the black water pipe is a bit lower than it should be in relation to the grey water pipe.
 
S Haze
Posts: 227
Location: Southern Minnesota, USA, zone 4/5
11
duck forest garden trees woodworking
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Now that I've thought about it a little more that should work just fine. Like you said the grey water drain line can go down and since mine hasn't been built yet it the elevation can be adjusted accordingly. Since the pipes both come away from the house parallel to each other I was stuck in the mindset that it had to stay that way when in reality the grey water pipe when in "septic system mode" can make a 90 degree turn to join up with the other pipe.
Thanks!
 
R Scott
Posts: 3305
Location: Kansas Zone 6a
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The cross is a really good idea. I will do that when I get to it, too.
 
S Haze
Posts: 227
Location: Southern Minnesota, USA, zone 4/5
11
duck forest garden trees woodworking
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finally checked this one off the list! Just in time for winter which according to the weather forecast people, facebook, and your mom apparently starts tomorrow.

Thanks again R Scott for the idea, your one sharp guy (or possibly gal since I don't know what the 'R' stands for, never considered that until now)


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S Haze
Posts: 227
Location: Southern Minnesota, USA, zone 4/5
11
duck forest garden trees woodworking
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One more thought...

This setup is more prone to damage from freezing because of the section of pipe between the cross and the valve when it is closed which is probably in the winter will trap water. I'll have to keep tabs on it by inspection through the clean-out. It should be okay since it's on the south side of the house and insulated/ underground. I'll share if there are any problems.
 
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