It is a FED tax credit of 30% in the year the equipment is purchased in and the equipment has to qualify, no biggie! Can also depreciate it over 5 years, do the math no biggie! The net metering does little too to justify installing PV. Now by law in most states they do not have to let you store for the winter, you loose what you do not use or
sell back each month. The buy back rate is usually their cost not retail and they do not have to buy back from clients to meet their FED renewable quotas they can use other sources. 2016 probably will not change the FED laws it is more the states that is the problems removing incentives depending. Each state has different laws on what Utilities have to provide such as buy back meters, there may be codes that cost more. Like my state a licensed pro has to install if connected to the meter, so add that to your total cost than take the incentives. I'll guess
alot of the percentage of people that installed never ran the NREL SAM simulation model to see their pay back period. It also does a very complete cost study, but the learning curve is steep and for pros. Most PV sales do not want people to see those results. If one is paying .10-.15 kwh and not in a sunshine state it's probably a loss until the cost gets down to $1-2 KW which it may never. Might make more sense when.if homes are all DC. Better yet the cost of a Telsa or other battery may be a better path than grid tied but, probably not for a ten year battery life... run the model, now pay back is real far out there. It's solar craze most do not understand. Wind is less efficient than PV if all losses vs cost is considered, run SAM in your area unless you have high wind 24/7.
Also, if you can dump half the money into the envelope to lower utility loads real low it makes less sense. Some buildings can last weeks no HVAC in freezing temps. Now the building is not only energy efficient but comfortable (no drafts) and healthy PV does not provide. If you have an old building PV cost may make sense than a deep energy retro-fit depending on how drafty and unhealthy the building is. Health and comfort
should be the determining factor not energy bills.
I ran SAM is KS my existing home it made no sense when we pay .10 KWH and it cost $3.00 KW to install. I'm going to run it again now home build once I buy a lot and set my design on it.
DSIRE:
http://www.dsireusa.org/
I suggest running PV Watts or SAM(2015 version best with the right weather pattern) w/0 incentives. If it makes no sense and the pay back is too long (5 years +), add a 30 year Energy Efficiency
Mortgage 100% financing at the rate you qualify, private or FHA Power Saver loans, to the model and look at the outputs. Try a lease and cash. If it still makes no sense plan on selling less than 5 years or put the money in the envelope, efficient domestic
hot water and low plug loads (lighting etc)...or install and metering device to see where the highest loads are.